how bad is it to install used forged pistons and rods in a stock b18b block? stock bore and everything

i would use new bearings and new rings

 

Alot of people do that including me.. Just make sure to clean the block really well and get the piston to wall clearances checked..

 

anyone else?

 

Trust me on this.. Majority of people put aftermarket pistons and rods in stock blocks..

 

ya you can do usually do it with no problem. If you carefully re-hone you can get the cyl-wall clearance perfect.

 

who has done it?

 

Sketch: are you wanting to do this with the engine in the car i take it?

-Wade

 

yeah the engine is in the car. i tore it down because i thought i had lost a piston

however all pistons are fine... so now i want to upgrade!

 

--How many miles are on the block.?

-Wade

 

i would def recommend deglazing the cyls but you have to be carefull to keep everything real clean when your doin it in the car because the crank is still gonna be in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">--How many miles are on the block.?

-Wade</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a USDM b18b block less thank 100k maybe around 70k or so

the cyl walls look perfect. i was planing on breaking the glaze

 

are you going to break the glaze yourself? im wondering how your going to do it? im planning to do the same things soon. i just want to scratch the walls up a little to make the new rings seal better

 

you do it with a ball hone if you don't have a machine. It looks like a round toilet scrubber with black stone ***** in a clylindrical shape.

 

You really dont want to just run a hone through it. You should measure the bore as you go so you can get the cylinder to wall clearance correct, or at least close

 

whos got some cheap forged pistons + rods for b18b 81mm

 

Im a noob when it comes to engine building....Im not at that skill level yet... but I do like to suck up information like a sponge....so if anyone wants to chime in....

A bunch of people i know have stock blocks w/pistons and rods....are you suggesting that every block that gets pistons and rods should be resleeved? or honed?

whats breaking the glaze?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StreetEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im a noob when it comes to engine building....Im not at that skill level yet... but I do like to suck up information like a sponge....so if anyone wants to chime in....

A bunch of people i know have stock blocks w/pistons and rods....are you suggesting that every block that gets pistons and rods should be resleeved? or honed?

whats breaking the glaze?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hone - the point is to get that cross-hatch pattern going.....helps the rings seat.

I suggest getting a quart of oil, and pour it on the cylinder walls while you're using the hone thing. Make sure you replace ALL of the oil...........you don't want little metal things floating around.

^^ This is only if you're keeping the engine in the car. Hope you got a lift

Oh, if you don't know what you're doing, take it to a professional.

 

input!

 

Just get a cheapy hone from napa and run it in the each cylinder up and down kind of fast about 7-8 times. I have done this before and am currently in the process of doing a cheap rebuild on another one of my motors. By cheap I mean, I'm deglazing the cylinders in my basement, checking one piston, plastigauging one bearing, and throwing the thing together in about an hour. Granted I am just rebuilding a stock D series you might want to spend more time on a B.

 

Generally if your taking the pistons out...all of the oil is already going to be outta the motor, since the oil pan has to be off to pull the pistons/rods out! so replacing the oil is a definate thing pretty much. But yeah...ive built a few motors with the blocks still in the car and they always turn out fine...like everyone says...make sure you get a good cross hatch going...and try not to take too much off the cylinder walls. get a dial bore indicator if your trying to match the cylinder wall clearance specs. One thing i do is i put a rag over the rod journals on the crank just to keep stuff from sticking to the crank...then ill go over them with some brake cleaner to get anything that might have stuck off...just make sure you lube everything real well when putting it back together.

 

got it, yes my motor is out, ill post some pics in a bit