Lost all power on my 91 Accord Ex
Hey, I have a 91 Accord Ex. On the way to work the other day my battery light on the dashboard lit up. This was the first time since i've owned the car that this happend. A couple of minutes later the revolution needle dropped. Then my speed ometer needle goes. The car was still running, but after about 5 minutes there was no power. I would give it gas and all it would do was backfire. Its a 5 speed w/ a new distributor, cap, wires and i just had the timing and water pump done as well. I am really upset as this is my only car and i have been buming rides all week. Can someone please help me and give me a little bit of insight.
Thanks in advanced.
Thanks in advanced.
Sounds like you are the victim of a bad alternator. If you don't have a way to charge the battery and a voltmeter to diagnose with, I suggest you remove the battery and alternator and take them to your local Auto Zone or whatever chain is in your area and have them tested and the battery charged. If you have the means to diagnose, say the word and I will (or someone else) will post some test procedures.
Scenario of events:
Alternator /or/ Drive Belt failed - no output (batt lamp on)
Continued to run on battery Voltage
Peripheral systems start failing as battery voltage drops to critical levels
Battery voltage drops to point Ignition system starts failing (miss-fires)
Battery voltage finally drops to point (approx 9.0v) where ecm Fails, EFI in-op.
Sound about right?
P
Alternator /or/ Drive Belt failed - no output (batt lamp on)
Continued to run on battery Voltage
Peripheral systems start failing as battery voltage drops to critical levels
Battery voltage drops to point Ignition system starts failing (miss-fires)
Battery voltage finally drops to point (approx 9.0v) where ecm Fails, EFI in-op.
Sound about right?
P
Recharge the battery - to full charge state.
With a Volt / Ohm meter, test leads to both Battery terminals.
With engine running, you should (better) see between 13.8 to 14.2 volts to verify a healthy alternator output.
If you see any less (or no more than Battery voltage 12.5 volts), the Alternator is toast
P
With a Volt / Ohm meter, test leads to both Battery terminals.
With engine running, you should (better) see between 13.8 to 14.2 volts to verify a healthy alternator output.
If you see any less (or no more than Battery voltage 12.5 volts), the Alternator is toast
P
To add to what P said, sometimes when this happens and the battery is pulled down to such a low voltage, it shorts out a cell and could also be toast.
Thanks alot for the info. I kind of thought that what it was. I should of it changed the alternator along with the distributor. It only makes sense if you change one component in the electrical system and leave an original with 280k on it , somethings got to give. Thanks Again.
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