Thanks to Tall Kyle, I got these for free.

Should help control warpage.

 

If you weld it right the flanges should'nt warp at all and there is no need to bolt it down. If it works for you though, thats great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you weld it right the flanges should'nt warp at all and there is no need to bolt it down. If it works for you though, thats great!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Weld right ? Explain more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you weld it right the flanges should'nt warp at all and there is no need to bolt it down. If it works for you though, thats great!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You must tell me this secret. My flanges always tend to bow because the the pipes shrinking after welding.

 

nice, good idea. i use a turbine housing and cylinder heads

 

Thats exactly what I did.

1/2" aluminum plate drilled just like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you weld it right the flanges should'nt warp at all and there is no need to bolt it down. If it works for you though, thats great!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're on crack. If the soldering iron works for you though.

 

NICE FLANGES

-James @ JG-Fab.com/BmCRace.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats exactly what I did.

1/2" aluminum plate drilled just like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

AL plate? From my understanding... 1/2in will warp... even 1/2in steel can sometimes be to thin. I wonder if the conductive properties of AL will help compensate though.

 

I use 1/2" AL plate as jigs for headers too . Never had a warped flange and the AL is still flat using a straightedge to check it.

 

If you weld 1/4" at a time and let it cool then it might not warp w/o a fixture. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HI! I think I'm smart! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you weld it right the flanges should'nt warp at all and there is no need to bolt it down. If it works for you though, thats great!</TD></TR></TABLE>

JB weld is not welding little buddy

Those plates look sweet man. Post up some results now Maybe I'll get off my *** and make some. Yeah probably not going to happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you weld 1/4" at a time and let it cool then it might not warp w/o a fixture. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

Key words right there

 

It appears my manifold was tacked to a bench/plate in several spots when welding?

Is this method acceptable also?

 

copper would work even better

 

I usually try and weld it while bolted to a head.

 

I brought an equal length manifold to work knowing that my flange was warped, checked it w/ a straight edge and checked it on the table, a co-worker told me that the flange needs to be bolted down to a plate to control warpage while welding so I basically took it to m disc grinder and made sure it was flat. It had about .030 gap on the each side

 

You just have to move fast, let it cool and weld one side of the runner to the head flange and then switch sides. I promise I have made many manifolds and none of them have warped using my method.

 

same method I use. Fine a donor head

Those plates are pretty sweet tho

 

anyone need plates contact me. I can make more.

i can't wait for my ram manifold to be complete