JL XR650CSI ---> dissapointed how have you guys got urs set up ?
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From: Sydney, Australia, Australia
JL XR650CSI ---> dissapointed how have you guys got urs set up ?
I finally finished my install, and am pretty dissapointed by the JL XR650CSI speakers that I have installe. I have them powered off an AMP, and they just dont seem to be giving me the quality sounds I thought they would. It sounds similar to stock.
On a side note do i need to change the setting in the crossover or are stock settings good.
If anyone else has these please post up where you have them set.
On a side note do i need to change the setting in the crossover or are stock settings good.
If anyone else has these please post up where you have them set.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (GSteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What deck do you have?
Are your doors sound deadened? Do you have a baffle for the midrange, and if so, are the baffle sealed all around to prevent air leaks? These things are critical for sound quality.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto the above, I would also ask what HU? What amp? How are the over-sized 6.5" speakers mounted? Where is the tweeter mounted?
94
Are your doors sound deadened? Do you have a baffle for the midrange, and if so, are the baffle sealed all around to prevent air leaks? These things are critical for sound quality.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto the above, I would also ask what HU? What amp? How are the over-sized 6.5" speakers mounted? Where is the tweeter mounted?
94
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From: Sydney, Australia, Australia
Re: (fcm)
Ok here are the answers to all the questions. plus some
1. Doors are deadened and sealed with Dynamat extreme, inner shell is half done, outer shell is completely done. Service holes have been covered in painted 3mm mdf and then dynamated on top.
2. I made custom spacers for the JL speakers and used these to mount them, I dynamated around the spacer to stop the speaker from rattling.
3. Speaker cable is run through the Molex plug and out to the trunk to the AMP. Used Rockford amp wiring kit
4. Tweeter is mounted up near the power window switches close to the dash, so a little above knee height.
5. Deck is a Pioneer 5650MP3 player, its not the best deck I have had and am thinking of upgrading it, opinions on this please.
6. Not sure what a baffle is, can someone please explain this to me.
7. Crossovers are under the dash and in the kick panel for the driver side.
8. I am using a JL 500/1 AMp and JL 10W6V2 for bass.
9. Using an older Alpine two channel amp to power the speakers.
Can someone give me some guidance on how to tune this or what I have done wrong.
Thanks for your help
1. Doors are deadened and sealed with Dynamat extreme, inner shell is half done, outer shell is completely done. Service holes have been covered in painted 3mm mdf and then dynamated on top.
2. I made custom spacers for the JL speakers and used these to mount them, I dynamated around the spacer to stop the speaker from rattling.
3. Speaker cable is run through the Molex plug and out to the trunk to the AMP. Used Rockford amp wiring kit
4. Tweeter is mounted up near the power window switches close to the dash, so a little above knee height.
5. Deck is a Pioneer 5650MP3 player, its not the best deck I have had and am thinking of upgrading it, opinions on this please.
6. Not sure what a baffle is, can someone please explain this to me.
7. Crossovers are under the dash and in the kick panel for the driver side.
8. I am using a JL 500/1 AMp and JL 10W6V2 for bass.
9. Using an older Alpine two channel amp to power the speakers.
Can someone give me some guidance on how to tune this or what I have done wrong.
Thanks for your help
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (Kavehman)
Well it sounds like you have done all the right things, I will ask about the speaker mounts, you say you made custom spacers and mounted the speakers with them, does that mean you made depth reducing rings with a slightly bigger speaker mounting hole and then mounted them to the stock plastic speaker housings, or you removed the stock plastic ones and made custom MDF ones to replace the stock ones?
Baffle= surface speaker is mounted to.
Mounting over-sized speakers in a Honda/Acura can be a bit of a pain, [if you want them to sound good], there are 3 main rules that need to be fallowed when mounting any speaker........
1- You must have a flat surface, [baffle] to mount the speaker to, any warping of the speakers basket can misalign the VC.
2- You must have an airtight seal between the front and back of speaker for at least the diameter of the speaker in all directions from the outside edge of the speaker
3- The speaker must be mounted to a solid surface, [baffle] there can be no "flex" or movement of the baffle when you push on it, [for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.
There should be a rule 4, a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to any other material.
One other thing, are you absolutely sure your speakers and x-overs are wired properly, [the left and right sides wired in phase with each other]
If the above 3 rules have been fallowed and the speakers and x-overs are wired properly and there is no problem with the amp or HU, [or how they are wired] the speakers should sound pretty darn good.
Also do you have the model number of the Alpine amp? 94
Baffle= surface speaker is mounted to.
Mounting over-sized speakers in a Honda/Acura can be a bit of a pain, [if you want them to sound good], there are 3 main rules that need to be fallowed when mounting any speaker........
1- You must have a flat surface, [baffle] to mount the speaker to, any warping of the speakers basket can misalign the VC.
2- You must have an airtight seal between the front and back of speaker for at least the diameter of the speaker in all directions from the outside edge of the speaker
3- The speaker must be mounted to a solid surface, [baffle] there can be no "flex" or movement of the baffle when you push on it, [for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.
There should be a rule 4, a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then the same speaker mounted to any other material.
One other thing, are you absolutely sure your speakers and x-overs are wired properly, [the left and right sides wired in phase with each other]
If the above 3 rules have been fallowed and the speakers and x-overs are wired properly and there is no problem with the amp or HU, [or how they are wired] the speakers should sound pretty darn good.
Also do you have the model number of the Alpine amp?
94
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From: Sydney, Australia, Australia
Re: (fcm)
I cut 18mm MDF and cut it to make the baffles. I then screwed the baffle in place and put strips of dynamat on the baffle to absorb any vibrations.
Would this have been a bad thing to do ? I mean Dynamating the baffles.
I will check the crossovers but im pretty sure they are on right.
The amp is an alpine mrv t220 I believe (from memory)
Would this have been a bad thing to do ? I mean Dynamating the baffles.
I will check the crossovers but im pretty sure they are on right.
The amp is an alpine mrv t220 I believe (from memory)
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From: Flanders, NJ, United States
Re: (Kavehman)
check your crossovers for sure, they have different setting for how you want the driver and tweeter to perform. you say you arent getting enough bass which is hard to believe considering the dynmatting and mdf fabbing you have done.
tweeter placement and angle is key and could have a detrimental affect to the low freq that your driver would seem to be outputting. try moving the jumpers inside the crossover to produce more low freq from the woofer in the door.
how do you have your settings on your headunit as far as bass, treble, sub gain, etc.
and how is your amp tuned as far as gains. ive noticed to using more volume from the headunit rather than gain from the amplifier to produce cleaner sound and overall more balanced music which would include the sub bass as well.
i hope you get your problem solved cause i would hate to actually hear these speakers not get good feedback since i will be installing mine within a month or so haha.
tweeter placement and angle is key and could have a detrimental affect to the low freq that your driver would seem to be outputting. try moving the jumpers inside the crossover to produce more low freq from the woofer in the door.
how do you have your settings on your headunit as far as bass, treble, sub gain, etc.
and how is your amp tuned as far as gains. ive noticed to using more volume from the headunit rather than gain from the amplifier to produce cleaner sound and overall more balanced music which would include the sub bass as well.
i hope you get your problem solved cause i would hate to actually hear these speakers not get good feedback since i will be installing mine within a month or so haha.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: (Kavehman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kavehman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cut 18mm MDF and cut it to make the baffles. I then screwed the baffle in place and put strips of dynamat on the baffle to absorb any vibrations.</TD></TR></TABLE> Thats like 5/8" MDF, now is that mounted to the oem plastic speaker housing, [to give you the depth you need, od do you have more then one layer of 18mm MDF laminated together and mounted to the door in place of the oem plastic mounts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your crossovers for sure, they have different setting for how you want the driver and tweeter to perform. you say you arent getting enough bass which is hard to believe considering the dynmatting and mdf fabbing you have done. </TD></TR></TABLE>I agree, although phasing would be a much bigger problem
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tweeter placement and angle is key and could have a detrimental affect to the low freq that your driver would seem to be outputting. try moving the jumpers inside the crossover to produce more low freq from the woofer in the door. </TD></TR></TABLE>Aaaaaaaaaa what?, Tweeter placement will have a "detrimental effect" on the low frequencies, Aaaaaaaaaa no, the "mid-range presence" jumpers adjust the amplitude of the upper mid-range, they will have no effect on the F3 point
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you have your settings on your headunit as far as bass, treble, sub gain, etc.
and how is your amp tuned as far as gains. ive noticed to using more volume from the headunit rather than gain from the amplifier to produce cleaner sound and overall more balanced music which would include the sub bass as well. </TD></TR></TABLE> although it is important not to set the gains too high on the amp, not enough gain on an amp and turning up the volume of the HU will cause "over saturation" of the amps input stage and SQ will take a dive.
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your crossovers for sure, they have different setting for how you want the driver and tweeter to perform. you say you arent getting enough bass which is hard to believe considering the dynmatting and mdf fabbing you have done. </TD></TR></TABLE>I agree, although phasing would be a much bigger problem
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tweeter placement and angle is key and could have a detrimental affect to the low freq that your driver would seem to be outputting. try moving the jumpers inside the crossover to produce more low freq from the woofer in the door. </TD></TR></TABLE>Aaaaaaaaaa what?, Tweeter placement will have a "detrimental effect" on the low frequencies, Aaaaaaaaaa no, the "mid-range presence" jumpers adjust the amplitude of the upper mid-range, they will have no effect on the F3 point
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you have your settings on your headunit as far as bass, treble, sub gain, etc.
and how is your amp tuned as far as gains. ive noticed to using more volume from the headunit rather than gain from the amplifier to produce cleaner sound and overall more balanced music which would include the sub bass as well. </TD></TR></TABLE> although it is important not to set the gains too high on the amp, not enough gain on an amp and turning up the volume of the HU will cause "over saturation" of the amps input stage and SQ will take a dive.
94
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 518
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From: Flanders, NJ, United States
Re: (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Aaaaaaaaaa what?, Tweeter placement will have a "detrimental effect" on the low frequencies, Aaaaaaaaaa no, the "mid-range presence" jumpers adjust the amplitude of the upper mid-range, they will have no effect on the F3 point
although it is important not to set the gains too high on the amp, not enough gain on an amp and turning up the volume of the HU will cause "over saturation" of the amps input stage and SQ will take a dive. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
i meant tweeter placement will have an affect on the lower frequencies, not just the LOW freq. sorry haha. and with gains and volume adjustment, i usually set my volume first before i mess with gains. so i agree there, youve been better at explaining things in words than i ever have haha.
Aaaaaaaaaa what?, Tweeter placement will have a "detrimental effect" on the low frequencies, Aaaaaaaaaa no, the "mid-range presence" jumpers adjust the amplitude of the upper mid-range, they will have no effect on the F3 point
although it is important not to set the gains too high on the amp, not enough gain on an amp and turning up the volume of the HU will cause "over saturation" of the amps input stage and SQ will take a dive.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>i meant tweeter placement will have an affect on the lower frequencies, not just the LOW freq. sorry haha. and with gains and volume adjustment, i usually set my volume first before i mess with gains. so i agree there, youve been better at explaining things in words than i ever have haha.
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