New cage - 92 hatch
Got my new cage installed this weekend........6 pt chromoly - tig'd
Let me know what you think
East Coast Race Cars
http://photobucket.com/albums/...?sc=1
Let me know what you think
East Coast Race Cars
http://photobucket.com/albums/...?sc=1
Nice
question tho: i see that you made room for the armrests. With the pillars so close to the driver and passenger isnt that a safety concern? Well i have never built a cage before but it just makes my side hurt thinking about a t-bone wreck and that pole slamming into my rib cage.
question tho: i see that you made room for the armrests. With the pillars so close to the driver and passenger isnt that a safety concern? Well i have never built a cage before but it just makes my side hurt thinking about a t-bone wreck and that pole slamming into my rib cage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the plates 6x6?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just about to say the same. NHRA (and most other sanctioning bodies) require 6x6 plates everywhere but the "8 point" legs and rear legs in the trunk/hatch..
Just wanted to say I have been building race cars for over 15 years and yes those plates arn't completly 6x6 to the tape but i have never had one fail chassis certification and i have been using the same plate all this time.
And to the other question of the bent door bars this is completly legal and you don't need to worry about the bars hitting your ribs that would be the last of my worries because if you didn't have those bars then you would be having a bumper in your ribs so you chose which you would rather have. i'll take my chances with the bar stoping the bumper how about you.
JOE
EAST COAST RACE CARS
And to the other question of the bent door bars this is completly legal and you don't need to worry about the bars hitting your ribs that would be the last of my worries because if you didn't have those bars then you would be having a bumper in your ribs so you chose which you would rather have. i'll take my chances with the bar stoping the bumper how about you.
JOE
EAST COAST RACE CARS
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Hmm, interesting design. I'd worry about the rear downtubes, unless you plan on more from the shock tower area, like seen in the back of this cage:

It looks like a drag race car, so if you rolled and came down on the wall in the right place (like over the hatch area, you leave a lot of room for those bars to bend. Longer bars bend easier. But, I'm no cage builder.
My host is going down, so that pic might disappear for a while.

It looks like a drag race car, so if you rolled and came down on the wall in the right place (like over the hatch area, you leave a lot of room for those bars to bend. Longer bars bend easier. But, I'm no cage builder.
My host is going down, so that pic might disappear for a while.
By the way those bars arn't even designed for side impact. cages are designed for roll overs. so if your really worried about a side impact you better drive a tank.LOL. But really thihs cage is legal.
Disagree with the you when you say cages are not designed for side impacts...that is SOOOOO far from the truth. Especially in drag racing and probably even more in road racing. In both forms of racing, whats the ratio of side impact crashes as oppsed to rollovers? There are MANY more side impacts than rollovers. If cages only being used for rollover was the case, then why in full drag car are there so many more bars the driver, and around the side, with only a few bars across the roof? Because they are more designed for side impacts! 
I also disagree with you, and agree with Cjackson. .045 filler is WAY small to be using to tig cages. I mean itl work and is probably just as strong, but you have to melt so much more into it. On top of that, your weld pics indicates you are one who likes to have your puddles very close together, which there is nothing wrong with, but with .045 filler, that has got to be time consuming. And as far as it giving you a "tight bead"...that is the last thing you want to do when building structural pieces such as a cage. The wider the puddle, the more filler is melted into the surrounding area, the stronger the weld joint is. With a bead that is say 1/8" wide, all the stresses are concentrated on that very tiny spot....where as with a bead say 1/4" wide, your stresses are spread out more over an even surface of weld bead. That is probably the most common misconsemption by many chassis builders, including some of the big names out there. Its just one of those things..."appearance over quality..."
Other than that, cage looks good! Nice work!
Kyle

I also disagree with you, and agree with Cjackson. .045 filler is WAY small to be using to tig cages. I mean itl work and is probably just as strong, but you have to melt so much more into it. On top of that, your weld pics indicates you are one who likes to have your puddles very close together, which there is nothing wrong with, but with .045 filler, that has got to be time consuming. And as far as it giving you a "tight bead"...that is the last thing you want to do when building structural pieces such as a cage. The wider the puddle, the more filler is melted into the surrounding area, the stronger the weld joint is. With a bead that is say 1/8" wide, all the stresses are concentrated on that very tiny spot....where as with a bead say 1/4" wide, your stresses are spread out more over an even surface of weld bead. That is probably the most common misconsemption by many chassis builders, including some of the big names out there. Its just one of those things..."appearance over quality..."
Other than that, cage looks good! Nice work!
Kyle
Ok 1st off you need to call SFI they will also tell you that a cage is designed for roll overs. I will tell you that I just had a 25.2 car inspected that we built and the tech inspector said they are going to change some bars for side impacts. that is comming.
2nd. I don't know what you do for a living but I'm an aerospace engineer with a focus on weld technology and your fillet only needs to be 1 1/2 times the diamiter of your base metal so if your only welding .083 material your fillet is going to be real small and on moly thats what you want you don't want to get a lot of heat into your weld, you will see a heat mark on your tubing you want that to be as close to your weld as you can were that heat mark is is your brittle point on your tubing. And really the smaller torch you use the tighter areas you can get into. We use a 9F flex head torch and it works great.
2nd. I don't know what you do for a living but I'm an aerospace engineer with a focus on weld technology and your fillet only needs to be 1 1/2 times the diamiter of your base metal so if your only welding .083 material your fillet is going to be real small and on moly thats what you want you don't want to get a lot of heat into your weld, you will see a heat mark on your tubing you want that to be as close to your weld as you can were that heat mark is is your brittle point on your tubing. And really the smaller torch you use the tighter areas you can get into. We use a 9F flex head torch and it works great.
BY THE WAY WHEN OUR 25.2 CAMARO WAS BEING SETIFIED THE INSPECTOR ASK IF HE COULD TAKE PICTURES OF THE WELDS SO HE CAN SHOW THEM IN A CLASS HE WAS GIVING ON HOW YOUR WELDS SHOULD LOOK. GO TO THE PHOTOBUCKET LINK IN THE FIRST POST TO SEE THE 25.2 CAMARO AND OTHER CARS WE BUILT.
JOE
EAST COAST RACE CARS
JOE
EAST COAST RACE CARS
Everything is done in house. that 8pt. moly was 1025.00. We require interior to be removed, carpet and seats need drivers seat left in for door bar location. We will be happy to install one for you.
Thanks,
Joe
EAST COAST RACE CARS
Thanks,
Joe
EAST COAST RACE CARS


