Someone locally from me is selling a 92 Civic SI w/ JDM H22a Swap + Extras for $3000. Only problem is that the Auto Tensioner let loose when he was driving. I figured I would post this here because the H22 is a Prelude engine. This is what he said about the tensioner ...

"I was driving about 25-30 mph coasting when the auto tensioner let loose, so it wasn't too bad. The timing belt did not break. In order to get it back running, you need the tensioner, timing belt and some valves. Personally I would put a manual tensioner in and just get a new head, but if you did want to keep the head, that would be a good idea since it is closed deck(good for turbo)."

What else could have gotten wrecked when the auto tensioner went? He says that the valves will need to be replaced, but could there be other things? If it's only the vavles, I can remove the head and replace those no problem. Obviously the tensioner would have to be replaced too, and I can probably do that. I'm looking for a DD anyways while my Accord is being worked on. BTW, here's the info about the car ...

JDM H22a (prelude) engine
JDM P13 ECU w/ spoon chip (chipped by zer0daze)
JDM tranny
Quaife LSD
ACT HDSS clutch replaced 1000 miles ago
ClutchMaster Flywheel resurfaced 1000 miles ago
HCP Motor Mounts
Raxle custom axles
Fluidine radiator
Fal Fan
99 civic SI fuel filter
RC Balanced and blueprinted 340cc injectors
Walbro 255l fuel pump
Apexi VAFC
DC Header (with 2.5" collector mod)
Carsound 2.5 inch high flow cat. converter
Apex'i World Sport cat-back exhaust (very quiet)
Unorthodox Racing Crank and alt pulleys
MSD 6AL
MSD Blaster SS coil
NGK blue spark plug wires
Relocated battery behind pass seat
H&R true coil-overs
Powerslot slotted rotors on all 4 wheels (4 wheel disks)
Axxis metal master pads
Borbet 15x7 rims up front
Kumho MX tires on the borbet rims

bad things about the car: Needs new timing belt and I am sure some valves are bent. You can pick up a new head for about 300 bux and be done with it though. The heat is not hooked up, but it is just because the heater core is bypassed with a coupler and would be very easy to hook back up. There is no p/s, or a/c when you are going fast, you don't need that crap. There are small spots of surface rust that could be fixed very easily.

 

you will most likely only need to replace the valves....and the parts for a manual tensioner and the new timing belt...

it is possible that the valves did slight damage to the pistons though i doubt it.....

closed deck and open deck are determined by the block not the head

if you decide to not buy it, i certainly will, thats not a bad deal....

 

I had my auto tensioner just recently blew on me. My valves were still fine and working condition. After that checked out all i changed was the timing belt, auto tensioner, balancer belt and water pump, OEM Honda parts, at the same time. And done a valve clearance after the valves were put back in. So i'm pretty sure his valves should be fine. My mechanic at A&J racing told me that the manual tensioner conversion is not good because it breaks easier actually. Meaning the the balancer belt snaps easier then the timing belt goes after. I was gonna do the manual tensioner conversion until he showed me another prelude that had this conversion in the shop. Unfortunately the manual tensioner on the engine of that prelude he should me failed and belts snaped. Which screwed up all his valves, timing and everything. So it's up to you if you really want to put the conversion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99JDMTypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My mechanic at A&J racing told me that the manual tensioner conversion is not good because it breaks easier actually. Meaning the the balancer belt snaps easier then the timing belt goes after.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First mistake was keeping the balance shaft and belt.

 

I took out my bal. shafts (and belt) becuase I look at it as something else to go wrong, more weight/force to turn and another belt to worry about.

 

IF the valves are broke they MUST have hit the pistons. There is nothign else the valves coudl have hit. As a teenager i rebuilt a escort engin and set the timeing way off and just cranking it over i heard tink tink tink. and then woudlnt crank anymore. the valves went down as the pistons went up and broke 3 of them off. and gouged the hell out of the top of the piston. Now i know an escort motro isnt the same as the h22( i have a built boosted h22myself) but if the valves are broke yoru pistons broke them and the slightest gouge in the piston dome means a weak piston. and NOT a good idea for boost or NA