after doing alot of reading, going to the track, and talking face to face with a handfull of people, somthing occured to me that almost everyone seems to overlook... the most popular swap for 90-93 accord is the h22 simply because is requires the least amount of effort to infact do the swap minus the little tidbits everyone whos done it has run into, i.e. the egr, the manual tensioner, ect... and for the most part the swap seems worth the time, effor, and money, however after the whole vtec/nontec issue, and speaking with enough people im not to sure i want to go thru with it... iv been being told that infact the f22 that comes stock with the car is actully not a half bad motor to work with, now reserving my opinion and judgment, iv been told they make excelent drag motors, excelent nitrous motors, and all around they themselves are very very durable... here in lyes my delema; this summer im going to be doing a swap, and im having a hard time judging and weighing the 2 options, and was hoping for some knowledgable, intelagent feedback on this preticular question, regaardless of what decision i make, i know the motor will be brand-new, i was just hoping sombody... anybody could back these idea's up, and offer some insight prehaps, sugestions would be great...

-sorry for spelling (phenetic speller)

 

I love my F22. It never gives me problems. Two years of owning it and it's needed a distributor and axles. Not cheap a part but Honda distributors suck anyways and axles were done cause of a great deal.

I'll get a H23 once the F22 runs out. Only 135k though. So I may never get a H23 due to the fact my motor still has 250K+ of life left in it. My other Accord has near 300K on it. Gotta love Honda motors.

If you got money, swap it. I'd be more impressed with a built F22 though.

I'm a SOHC fan. Owning 5 Hondas I've never left the SOHC world. I had VTEC once, but kept it to a D16. I still have DPFI in my CRX. I've always wanted a F23 in a EH chassis.

 

^when you said it needed a new distributor,you didnt mean its CAP or ROTOR right? you meant the WHOLE distributor itself? i ask this because you said yours needed to be replaced and i wanted to ask what was the symptoms and **** that made you realize you had a fucked up dizzy. just for my own knowledge i thought i'll ask

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love my F22. It never gives me problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this will be my 3rd time owning an accord (im stuck on them) i love the box accords, just enough box, just enough curves! the first never went anywhere, got side swiped on rt.1 by some lady that couldent drive in the rain... the second got turned into a track-car but there were just too manny flaws, i had THAT F22 built up to almost 200whp, but had to let the motor go with the car b/c i didnt have the space, or money to hold the motor anywear, and still living under sombody elses roof dosent help when they say you cant keep a motor in their basment...lol so it sucked bigtime... no magor loss though, almost everything was bolt-ons!

 

Why is that bs????? I don't know what he did to the motor, but technically speaking, I turbo is a bolt on......and it's def not hard to make 200whp on an f22 with turbo

 

I swapped in h22 into my 92 Accord and I love it. With that said the F22 is a very good motor, especially if you want to boost.

 

sohc last forever

 

Anyone thats owned an accord has gone over this question multiple times...it comes down to personal preference and what you'd like to do with the motor and how much money you've got to spend on it. I was originally going to get a h22 and join the crowd...but that would drain most of the money I had planned for the motor section of my car. After some research, crunching numbers, and talking to some people about what I wanted, I decided to go with the f22b and turbo it. Now that I have a clear path...I just need to get started on walking it. Im going to get my motor for around 700 and then use the rest to cover all the basics (timing belt, all seals and gaskets, plugs and wires, whatever) and then boost it next year sometime. All in all it should cost around the same as if I got a full h22 swap. I'll be making more power and plus I'll have boost vs just a stock h22.

Basically just find a route you want to take, whether its h22 or just rebuilding your f22 and follow it. The worst that can happen is that you change your mind afterwards and have to sell the motor and start over...but thats half the fun right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slowdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sohc last forever </TD></TR></TABLE>

Becuase they make 0 hp.

My h22 in my accord isnt nearly as fast as I would like it to be, but if i had to go back to my shitty f22b1, i would slit my wrists and find a tall building to jump off of.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Conspiracy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After some research, crunching numbers, and talking to some people about what I wanted, I decided to go with the f22b and turbo it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

iv been deliborating on what to do for the past weekend now; it seems your right, for the money it will take to do the swap i could use to re-build and modify my f22, especialy considering exactly what i want to do... you went the route of forced induction... iv been playing around with the idea of a NA/nitrous-motor... never had the chance to do so... iv alsow found that everyone whos run that type of setup has had spectacular results with the f22, it seems to love n2o from what im told.

problem i ran into trying to turbo my last f22 was nobody built a kit; and everything had to be custom made; with that said; i had a hell of a time trying to find the right ballence of parts, and tuning... oem risistor box, fuel pump was too weak, would have had to replace the cam-shafts, and the turbo i had for it sucked... td04h pulled from a volvo!

 

if im not mistaken the jdm f22 is dohc best of both worlds if you ask me. if anything id do that. im gunna go search to see if i can confirm that.

 

how is that the best of both world? its a dohc, so what is the other world?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IPLockMe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Look, it comes down to this. If you have the money to do it right and fix the problems that may and will eventually arise... a boosted F series in an Accord is hard to beat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true, i raced some kids boosted 95 accord coupe and walked all over it. F-series sucks unless its f20b.

 

im sure you did. i was just saying that i have a stock jdm h22 in a 96 accord sedan fully gutted that wasnt even threatened by this boosted f. obviously a nice setup on a b1 could beat me, but for you to make a statement such as "a boosted f is hard to beat" is just showing that you are a little to prideful in the F series. i dont blame you though, i talked up f's when i had mine, but after swapping the h in, i realized how prehistoric the f is.

 

I decided although 4 cyl are nice, there is nothing like the smooth slick performance of the V6 accord.

It is extremely quiet and is a great daily driver with enough power for my liking.

V6 is smooth and quiet, just the way I like it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RnEpmc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if im not mistaken the jdm f22 is dohc best of both worlds if you ask me. if anything id do that. im gunna go search to see if i can confirm that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there are two JDM f22's. The SOHC jdm f22a and the DOHC jdm f22b. the jdm f22b is very similar to the h23. So similar, that you could just swap an h23 head, IM, tb, ecu, basically the top part of the engine and have it be just like a jdm f22b. 9.2 compression, iron sleeves, dohc. that frank right there is a mean monster for boost.

Turboing any F22 is easy, the hard part is the tuning, as is in any FI application. The thing is, its not easy because not only do you have to do the tuning, but you have to chip, especially if you're going to use uberdata. The stock ecu cannot be chipped, so you would have to get a p06 or p05 from a civic and chip that. then tune away.

JakeIsCool-

You smoked a boosted f22 in your gutted, h22 CD5? thats not very impressive. try beating it again with a full interior. I bet if that boosted f would have been gutted as well, you would have a new *******.

A WELL BOOSTED f will rape any stock to mild modded h22 out there. With a simple DSM set up, I have seen cb7's make well over 220WHP, and about 225WTQ. the torque alone would kill any h22. The boosted f that you stomped on probably was either: A) not well built B) had a crappy driver or C) probably wasnt trying.

Boosting an F22 can cost as little as 600 bux, if you know the right people. the leastt amount I have spent on a dsm setup was 1k, that includes EVERYTHING, even all tuning hardware. With that set up, my friend rapped all b18cx's, all h22's.

There is a video on one of my friends stockb block, boosted with a 16g, cb7 smoking an s2k

heres the vid:
http://www.nonvtec.com/videos/Accordvss2000.wmv

the driver/owner of that cb7 is midnite racer x, on cb7tuner.com look for his ride if people still dont beleive. He has a much better set up now, and is even faster.

the power of a boosted f is ****** crazy, and way ******* cheaper than buying/installing an H22.

-Jose

 

There's also a vid on HMT of a boosted f22 beating an M3 in the 1/4, to me that's pretty impressive. But on the other hand I've seen a dyno of a boosted h22 in a hatch making approx 600hp, now that's impressive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is that the best of both world? its a dohc, so what is the other world?</TD></TR></TABLE>
f22's stong block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mozzandherb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's also a vid on HMT of a boosted f22 beating an M3 in the 1/4, to me that's pretty impressive. But on the other hand I've seen a dyno of a boosted h22 in a hatch making approx 600hp, now that's impressive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... but that's an extremely modified motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d112crzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are two JDM f22's. The SOHC jdm f22a and the DOHC jdm f22b. the jdm f22b is very similar to the h23. So similar, that you could just swap an h23 head, IM, tb, ecu, basically the top part of the engine and have it be just like a jdm f22b. 9.2 compression, iron sleeves, dohc. that frank right there is a mean monster for boost.

Turboing any F22 is easy, the hard part is the tuning, as is in any FI application. The thing is, its not easy because not only do you have to do the tuning, but you have to chip, especially if you're going to use uberdata. The stock ecu cannot be chipped, so you would have to get a p06 or p05 from a civic and chip that. then tune away.

JakeIsCool-

You smoked a boosted f22 in your gutted, h22 CD5? thats not very impressive. try beating it again with a full interior. I bet if that boosted f would have been gutted as well, you would have a new *******.

A WELL BOOSTED f will rape any stock to mild modded h22 out there. With a simple DSM set up, I have seen cb7's make well over 220WHP, and about 225WTQ. the torque alone would kill any h22. The boosted f that you stomped on probably was either: A) not well built B) had a crappy driver or C) probably wasnt trying.

Boosting an F22 can cost as little as 600 bux, if you know the right people. the leastt amount I have spent on a dsm setup was 1k, that includes EVERYTHING, even all tuning hardware. With that set up, my friend rapped all b18cx's, all h22's.

There is a video on one of my friends stockb block, boosted with a 16g, cb7 smoking an s2k

heres the vid:
http://www.nonvtec.com/videos/Accordvss2000.wmv

the driver/owner of that cb7 is midnite racer x, on cb7tuner.com look for his ride if people still dont beleive. He has a much better set up now, and is even faster.

the power of a boosted f is ****** crazy, and way ******* cheaper than buying/installing an H22.

-Jose</TD></TR></TABLE>


2 questions... are F23's turbo friendly?

and, are turbo setups recommended at all for Automatic F23's?? I remember some AT cars running a FI setup, just not accords.

any inputs much appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChanManCG3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


2 questions... are F23's turbo friendly?

and, are turbo setups recommended at all for Automatic F23's?? I remember some AT cars running a FI setup, just not accords.

any inputs much appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

question 1: Yes they are. They have very strong internals
question 2: An auto can handle the power as long as it is not a massive increase. The trans in the 6th gen cars should re rebuilt with stronger internals if you want it to last and that alone will set you back 4-5K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 1: Yes they are. They have very strong internals
question 2: An auto can handle the power as long as it is not a massive increase. The trans in the 6th gen cars should re rebuilt with stronger internals if you want it to last and that alone will set you back 4-5K</TD></TR></TABLE>

so im guessing with a mileage of 100,538.... a rebuild of the AT is a must? and by massive increase, you mean the psi right? is 8-10 a good number for the F23?

thanks

 

yea, the f23 still has the iron sleeves if im correct.

about the a/t, i wouldnt know too much. What i do know is, that you can get a manual valve body. here is more info on manual valve bodies: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=28948

 

boost your F...
a boosted F @ 6 psi tuned well will beat an H.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d112crzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, the f23 still has the iron sleeves if im correct.

about the a/t, i wouldnt know too much. What i do know is, that you can get a manual valve body. here is more info on manual valve bodies: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=28948</TD></TR></TABLE>

can an automatic use a manual valve body? and why not just stick to the good ol' auto valve body that came factory with my AT?

my accord just reached 100k a week ago, so can anyone give me inputs whether its worth going FI with an AT.. or just stick to n/a??

thanks guys

TO YeuEmMaiMai -

so having 100,598 miles on my car, indeed of a need to do rebuilds and such?

thanks