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Pic for the views



Modified by 90blackcrx at 11:36 PM 1/27/2006

 

Harbor Freight one modified... Because those ******** dont know how to center things.. .

 

Anyone else ?

protools or jd2 ?

 

i also have the harbor freight. steel version(cheapest of the 2 they sell). and the chuck end of the shaft is not welded to the shaft straight.

 

I think there is a place in Van Nuys...yellow and purple lettering...they sell benders, tube seam rollers, etc etc etc. I think they're listed at the top of the forum under where to buy metal forming tools. GREAT place. I got mine from them as well as a bead roller. TOP notch stuff.

 

tricktools.com they're **** is pimp.

 

jig-a-joint

 

go to summit or jegs and search or "ol' joint jigger" they are really nice and work good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to summit or jegs and search or "ol' joint jigger" they are really nice and work good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Althought I have heard good things from them, I don't like the fact that they use bronze bushings. And the jr2 actually talks about it, atleast I think so when they state this

GROUND AND POLISHED STAINLESS STEEL SHAFT & RIGID BEARING BLOCK - This is the most critical part of a hole saw style notcher. The TN-100 utilizes a ground & polished stainless steel shaft riding in a bearing block incorporating twin needle bearings and separate grease seals for maximum rigidity and reliability. We could have used a cheaper mild steel shaft and inexpensive bronze bushings, but then you’d be replacing them every job and cussing us too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to summit or jegs and search or "ol' joint jigger" they are really nice and work good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the one I have and it doesn't show any signs of wear yet

 

http://vansantent.com/tube_cop...0.htm

 

Heres mine! I made it Started with the shitty bench top style notchers...but you'll soon find out you cannot get the angles you need when doing certain work. I think they only go to 60 degrees or so...where as this one goes a whole 210 degrees! I stole the idea from JDm Manufacturing, and it works like no other.
The pieces are from a shitty harbor freight one, which I too do not like the fact it uses bronze bushings, but I can order any of the name brand notcher in pieces, so I can get the ball bearing block, hardened steel shaft, etc...when this one wears out of course.
By the way, steel is 2"x.5" flat bar
Anyways, heres the pictures:

 

you might also want to look into these type of notchers

http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.html

although,i have never used anything other than a hole saw or an end mill type notcher so i dont have real life experience with that one but the holesaws are a headache. at least for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might also want to look into these type of notchers

http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.html

</TD></TR></TABLE>


F#CK those things. they are the BIGGEST POS in the world

 

really whys that?

 

i personally have not tried the lowbucktools design, but have heard nothing but tons of good things about it.
Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally have not tried the lowbucktools design, but have heard nothing but tons of good things about it.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you serious?

VERY hard to use, can and will bend instead of notch tubing, complex notchs will not be able to be done.

i don't know who you talked to but i know 2 different people who had them and hated them. I used them too, and they were horrible

 

Those unit are good for guys building nerf bars and bumpers for circle track cars. They are really only good for 90 degree fits. I owned one yrears ago and if I was doing steel fencing its a great portable tool for that work. Its not a good tool at all for cage or chassis type of work.
I use a horizontal mill and there is nothing better. It takes about 5 seconds to fishmouth a piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall

 

We're notching 4130 Chrome/Moly all the time here in Australia on the chassis work we do and in my opinion nothing can beat a good solid "Bridgeport" mill. The head of the mill can be rotated in any direction and the vice as well. When you're doing it full time as we are it's the only way to notch tubing. On the pics below, note the "RMR" (rapid metal removal) roughing tool, expensive, but they are worth their weight in gold in my opinion.
Regards Andrew.

 

that's awesome, but it looks unsafe.

 

We have one of these...



Works well. Slightly expensive though.

We have all of the different sized rollers availablve for it too.

http://www.pipenotcher.com/en1...r.htm

 

Just my .02 worth:

Unless you are doing cage work everyday (then get the pictured one above...) the JD or simular ones works great. Even with the bronze bushings (easy and cheap to replace too), but the secret with those is to grease it before you start doing many notchings as then the grease will Float the shaft on the bushings.

Also, you only want to notch the end of the tubing, not thru the WHOLE tubing.

On the Bridgeport deal...save yourself and buy / make a clamping system for round tubing to properly hold it!