Valve Adjustment ?
Ok ive read the DIY post on this. The only thing im not too sure about is how to measure it with the feeler guage. What exactly am I measuring ? Sorry ive never taken the valve cover off before and dont wana get myself into trouble once i already started. Thanks guys.
and i talked to my mechanic and he said you never have to adjust the valves on a honda. Is there any truth to this ? Its a 5th gen with 115k on it. I got the car around 100k and i havent done it yet. Im not sure if the last owner did or did not.
That mechanic is not the smartest person in the world, yes you have to adjust your valves.


You should be able to figure it out with these pics
The clearance's are on the individual sizes.


You should be able to figure it out with these pics
The clearance's are on the individual sizes.
I understand everything except where i am placing the feeler guage. Am i just placing it inbetween the cam until its to spec? Sorry if this is annoying to you guys. Thanks for the help
And its .007-.008 exhaust side and .006-.007 and the intake side...correct ? And i stop on the intake side when .006 fits and .007 does not correct ....that how i know its correct ??
And another quick question what am i turning with the screw driver? Because you loosen the the nuts and torque them with only a socket. What is the screw driver needed for... am i turning somethin with it ?
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You are turning the "bolt" that has the nut. This is where you adjust them. And yes when .006 fits and .007 doesn't it is adjusted. Just be careful when you are locking the nut that it doesn't move out of spec.
there is a screw inside of the nut, turn the screw to move the valve up and down, and then when your ready to tighten them down, DO NOT MOVE the screwdriver... hold the screwdriver in the same spot, and turn the nut to tighten. and yes, if youve never done this before, i would reccomend buying the tool. much eaiser.. about 50 bucks..
edit:: and make sure the valves you are working on, that the cam lobe is pointing forward so there is no pressure on the rockers.. you want to slide the feeler between the cam and teh rocker
so you want to use the tool, put it on the valve, with the screwdriver in place. loosen the nut with the socket, turn the screw to tighten or loosen, and then w/o moving the screw, tighten down the nut again. then check clearance, and repeat if necessary
edit:: and make sure the valves you are working on, that the cam lobe is pointing forward so there is no pressure on the rockers.. you want to slide the feeler between the cam and teh rocker
so you want to use the tool, put it on the valve, with the screwdriver in place. loosen the nut with the socket, turn the screw to tighten or loosen, and then w/o moving the screw, tighten down the nut again. then check clearance, and repeat if necessary
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uneek4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look around, see if there is a local person who is certified and will do the work for a decent price. I have a guy doing mine next week for $60
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha. ****, I would do it for less than that. It is like a half an hour work. Do it yourself, it is not hard and you do not have to trust some anonymous grease monkey to do it right.
Pirate
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahaha. ****, I would do it for less than that. It is like a half an hour work. Do it yourself, it is not hard and you do not have to trust some anonymous grease monkey to do it right.
Pirate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kornerk12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i talked to my mechanic and he said you never have to adjust the valves on a honda. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What a moron!
Just take your time and do it one step at a time and you'll be fine. I like to make a little drawing with 8 boxes for I/E on each cylinder and check them off as I go. You can actually do about 3-4 cylinders at a time without rotating the crank.
What a moron!
Just take your time and do it one step at a time and you'll be fine. I like to make a little drawing with 8 boxes for I/E on each cylinder and check them off as I go. You can actually do about 3-4 cylinders at a time without rotating the crank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can actually do about 3-4 cylinders at a time without rotating the crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how did you manage that? since you check them at TDC for the piston, and theres never 2 pistons at TDC at the same time?
You can actually do about 3-4 cylinders at a time without rotating the crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how did you manage that? since you check them at TDC for the piston, and theres never 2 pistons at TDC at the same time?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefastrx7turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how did you manage that? since you check them at TDC for the piston, and theres never 2 pistons at TDC at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't have to be at 100% TDC like the manual says. If you know what you are doing you can look at each cylinder and see if the rocker arms are touching the 'base circle' of the cam and not the lobe. (BASE CIRCLE:The concentric or round portion of the cam lobe where the valve lash adjustments are made. A high spot in this area is called BASE CIRCLE RUNOUT.)
how did you manage that? since you check them at TDC for the piston, and theres never 2 pistons at TDC at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't have to be at 100% TDC like the manual says. If you know what you are doing you can look at each cylinder and see if the rocker arms are touching the 'base circle' of the cam and not the lobe. (BASE CIRCLE:The concentric or round portion of the cam lobe where the valve lash adjustments are made. A high spot in this area is called BASE CIRCLE RUNOUT.)
A buddy of mine adjusted my valves in about 5 or 10 mins.
Last time i adjusted my valves @ries did it for me after i swapped the head. goooo @ries.
Last time i adjusted my valves @ries did it for me after i swapped the head. goooo @ries.
its real easy if you have a gear rachet socket system. i remember my friend went to a shop and they said it would be 300 bucks for a valve adjustment! He was like "if you dont do it right you could blow up your engine" LOL so we ended up doing it ourselves and im glad we did cuz its soo easy!
[QUOTE=92bluepreludeSi]its real easy if you have a gear rachet socket system. QUOTE]
A normal socket/rachet set ? Whats the difference ? I tried doing it yesterday got everything apart and had the 1st valve set and then i couldnt turn the nut and hold the screw in place because you cant leave the screw driver in there with a rachet on the socket or torque wrench. And the vise grips are too big to turn the socket. And even if i can hold the screw in place while tightening it how am i supposed to hold it in place while i have a torque wrench on it?
A normal socket/rachet set ? Whats the difference ? I tried doing it yesterday got everything apart and had the 1st valve set and then i couldnt turn the nut and hold the screw in place because you cant leave the screw driver in there with a rachet on the socket or torque wrench. And the vise grips are too big to turn the socket. And even if i can hold the screw in place while tightening it how am i supposed to hold it in place while i have a torque wrench on it?
If you've never done it don't do it yourself let semobody experienced do it with you for the first time. There's a special procedure to check them or adjust them, engine must be cold and the valves you checking must be fully closed..........


