not to long ago i created a few threads cuz i needed help with fixing my car. my car died one day because of the timing belt goin out. i thought it snapped but when we took the head off it was all there with the exception of 15 teeth missing. i had my mechanic put in a new timing belt and water pump. i put in new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap n rotor, and fuel filter. the check engine light goes away and come back in about a half hour. same codes that came up at the shop. now we think its either the dizzy or maybe the map sensor. so i finally got another dizzy and put it on today. hooked it all up n started the car and no check engine light. drive to the gas station and tank up, then i jump on the freeway. drive to my buddy's house and on the way back guess who showed up again? *CHECK ENGINE* so now im scratchin my head cuz now the car is throwing a new code in addition to the 2 it was throwing before. now it throws out 72,73,74 which = random misfire in cylinder 2,3,4. what should i do now?

 

Got a stupid question, did you clear out all of the old codes just to make sure you're not just pulling the old ones again?

 

pretty sure i cleared it yesterday but im gonna do it again to make sure, but im throwing new codes in addition to the old ones...

 

actually yes i did cuz now i remember i unhooked the negative cable on the battery before putting on the new dizzy last night... so that should have reset my ecu right? before it was throwing 73 n 74 and i still get those but i also have 72 coming up. Random misfire in cylinder 2,3,and 4. cmon i know someone out there can help. i think it might be time to chalk it as a loss and get a new motor.

 

bump!!

 

Probably stupid question, Did you get new valves put in?

 

i say check compression,and you need to erase codes not just take cable off to clear

 

If nothing else go to advanced auto parts and have them "check" your CEL's and then ask them to clear them, at least it's free and the are actually cleared. Then if it continues to throw them then you need to find out what the hell the problem is.

 

can i clear them myself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably stupid question, Did you get new valves put in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope but i had them adjusted

 

I dont think just unpluggint the battery will clear the codes, the ECU will store them and then throw them again.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933

I believe that has how to clear the codes also.

 

its all good cuz i reset it with the obd2 scanner... i learned that u can only do it with a computer or the scanner. atleast thats what the guy at acura told me cuz i was under the impression before that all you had to do was un hook the negative battery cable. thanks for the re-education tho fellas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
nope but i had them adjusted</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your valves could be bent.

 

i kno they could be bent but do you think thats whats makin it throw those particular codes?

 

yup

 

Ok from my experience the only way the valves could be bent is that they got stuck open when the cams stopped spinning and a piston on the compression stroke smashed them. In that case the piston would be pretty badly damaged and theres a real good chance the motor wouldn't even start, let alone have him be able to drive to a gas station and then drive anywhere on a freeway.

 

check your timeing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onemoreday21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok from my experience the only way the valves could be bent is that they got stuck open when the cams stopped spinning and a piston on the compression stroke smashed them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He did say that he had teeth missing from his timing belt, considering that our motors are interference motors, And how fast the cams spin/piston goes up and down, even at idle, theres a good chance the valves were down when the piston was coming up. IMO its a good possibility the valves hit the piston/each other.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onemoreday21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In that case the piston would be pretty badly damaged</TD></TR></TABLE>
The valves would snap like a toothpick before the piston gets "pretty badly damaged"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onemoreday21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and theres a real good chance the motor wouldn't even start, let alone have him be able to drive to a gas station and then drive anywhere on a freeway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Obviously if they were bent really bad he would have problems driving, but they could be tweaked slightly, enough to throw check engine codes; rough idle, etc..


Modified by ITR#132 at 8:05 PM 1/30/2006

 

check this out tho...ive been driving my car for atleast a month now since this all happened. i put a significant amount of miles on it daily to. i talked to a tech from Acura that knows his shyt pretty damn well and hes positive the valves are bent just from discussing the issue. now my question is that if they are bent then whats the condition of the rest of the motor. hes talkin about $2,100 for a new valve job and then there could be more to come. the motor has just hit 117,500 and its a 96. back to my original question when this whole thing started, is it time to call it a day and pick up a new motor? i cant see spendin this much money on this motor when i could finally upgrade to the gzzzr or somethin else to improve from the LS. I NEED V-TEC IN MY LIFE! haha i have been deprived and this could be a good opportunity to move up. what do you guys think?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onemoreday21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok from my experience the only way the valves could be bent is that they got stuck open when the cams stopped spinning and a piston on the compression stroke smashed them. In that case the piston would be pretty badly damaged and theres a real good chance the motor wouldn't even start, let alone have him be able to drive to a gas station and then drive anywhere on a freeway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
honda's have a clearance head where there is plenty of space for the piston to be up and the valve to be open and no contact.

How bent vavles happen on honda's is valve float. valve looses contact with cam shaft and when it regains contact it tweaks the stem.

If you paying $2100 for stock head rebuild ouch.
I piad $2600 for:
supertech valves/retainers/springs
custom machined magnese guides
new valve seals
radial port job
flow bench testing
top end gasket set
My intake manifold port matched to my head

I would say find an article on how to remove the head.
Leave the rocker assembly in there, but remove the cams and electronics.
Take it to a local machine shop.
Installation is pretty basic but included re-installing the timing belt/valve adj which takes sometime.

 

2100 goin thru acura tho... but heres my big question... do you guys think i should just call it a day and pick up a new motor swap... im just waitin for someone to make me feel good about goin n pickin up a b18c1 or somethin... i dont need that much persuasion...haha

 

it would be alot easier, and with the engine out, do a timing belt and water pump change. Real easy with the engine out of the car.

 

are you talkin about my current motor or the new swap cuz i already changed timing belt and water pump a month ago for mine...

 

well which ever one will end up in the car. You may be able to find a built head for sale on honda-tech or a hop-up/machine shop that someone couldn't pay for the work done. It will be as much work to drop an engine in as to pull the head if not less on bolting the head back on.

 

im thinkin about just doing a full GSR swap! i kno its goin to be a little more than 2100 but i think it will be a better investment at this point to pick up a younger motor that performs better for an increase in what i would already be paying to have this one fixed. what do i need goin from a 96 b18b1 to a b18c1 for a complete swap? n roughly how much u think everythin will cost(including droppin in the new motor etc.)