Ordered from 88Rotors and can't wait to install them, this is what I got http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...97662
Anyone have a guide on how to do brakes?

Thanks!

 

Or possibly guide me..

 

Ah nice man. I've actually been looking at that same setup for my 92.

I'll tell you though, I go through those front brakes so quick...Every 8-9 months I'm replacing the front rotors due to multiple stress cracks. One time I let them go for almost a year...you should have seen the cracks.

There's so much debate about cross drilled/slotted rotors. Personally, I don't really like them. But as a package deal, they are just so cheap. Now yes, for everyone that wants argue, I know I could just buy some quality rotors that are, say, just slotted. But this time around I actually need new rear pads and rotors, so I'm just looking for a cheap package deal. And when you can get front and rear cross drilled/slotted rotors, quality pads, and brake lines for 299 shipped. Well I just can't pass up this deal.

Besides, I'm a tech at Acura, so I've got the tools, time, and know how to do the stuff, so I'm not paying anything additional.

You'll probably get some poeple that'll flame these rotors, and some that love them. My honest opinion is that, bang for your buck, they are OK. But they don't hold up well to the abuse that I give them. I don't mind them, but I'll eventually go with something better.

Oh yah as for brake work, there's tons of writeups and tips on how to do it. It's pretty straightforward and easy
-- Kevin

 

thats real easy to do, do you have a haynes repair manual for your car? if not you def. need one, anyway, just take the wheels, calipers, rotors, and lines off, swap the pads, put rotors and lines on.

 

thats ******* cheap. thanks for the link. after my engine is done, im doing brakes.

damn thats cheap.

 

i bought the same rotors for my 00 si
they look nice.
yu bought the hole set for 4 wheels

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4sd4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats ******* cheap. thanks for the link. after my engine is done, im doing brakes.

damn thats cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here

 

One piece crossdrilled/slotted rotors offer no performance benefit on our cars and just crack faster on the track. Next time, just go with regular blank rotors.

Hawk HP+ brake pads are much better than those that came with the kit, and are readily available from Tire Rack. Again, in the future, I would recommend these pads for street cars that also see track duty.

Good brake fluid is a must also. I have Castrol SRF, Endless RF650, ATE Super Blue, and Motul RBF600 in various cars and all have performed well. The ATE and Motul are the cheaper options out of those I listed, but perform flawlessly.

 

Well 88Rotors offered me a re-assurance with these rotors saying if they crack they will replace them no questions asked as long as I mail them back in. I think I am gonna use a D0T 4 Racing Fluid with this setup..
Hopefully my brakes aren't that horrible with these pads/rotors

BTW The sale on these rotors and pads are only for two more days thats why it says this " BEST PRICE EVER FOR THIS WEEK ONLY, REGULAR PRICE FOR THIS BRAKE KIT IS $369.99. WE ARE OVERSTOCKED WITH 50 COMPLETE SETS THAT WE ARE TRYING TO CLEAR OUT."

 

I just bought that setup minus the rotors.

I'll let you all know when i install this weekend

 

Anyone else care to comment? I hope there not a horrible setup hoefully it will be better than my crappy wafer thin rotors and cheap *** pads...

 

I like this brake upgrade.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560

 

If I run this with some ATE Super Blue with the PBR Pads, Rotors and lines will it be a big difference than my crappy system now?

 

How much fluid does a a sytstem hold so I can order some ATE Super Blue
?

Thanks

 

cheap because they are blanks and have been drilled/slotted at their shop with a machine.

i dont trust these. when u drilled and slot them by yourself, the integrity of the rotors is lost.

kinda like the KRP rotors. haha.

 

Yeah but 88Rotors assured me if they crack they will replace em so thats why I got them..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much fluid does a a sytstem hold so I can order some ATE Super Blue
?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't get the ATE Super Blue, go with Motul RBF 600. And i believe is just a few bucks more. One bottle should be more than enough.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Taken from - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=738858

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah but 88Rotors assured me if they crack they will replace em so thats why I got them..</TD></TR></TABLE>

What if the rotors catastrophically fail and cause an accident. Are they liable?

 

Darn I just ordered from Import RP maybe I can change, why is ATE Super Blue no good?

Well I don't know but I will inspect them regularly...also I am not gonna be abusing them I drive in NY and I don't race only street driving..


Modified by Integra Integra at 6:48 PM 1/25/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone else care to comment? I hope there not a horrible setup hoefully it will be better than my crappy wafer thin rotors and cheap *** pads...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would also be careful about using the stainless steel brake lines. Personally i don't believe they are meant to be used for daily driving, but its your car and you could do whatever you want to it. But if you were to put them on i would regularly check on them for any unnormal wear. Here are a few links that discuss stainless steel lines - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199349 and this one is a very good read http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Pe...s.htm

For rotors, honestly autozone blanks are unbeatable. They are cheap as hell, and have a two year warranty!!!! So if you do see stress cracks just remove them and take them back to autozone and they will replace them. So you don't even have to mail them and have any down time. Here's a thread that shows a guy who used autozone blanks as his track rotors and even lasted 9 events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That rotor has ~9 track days and several thousand street miles.
-finished up a set of Blue's (~1/8" or so)
-went thru a set of Panther +'s
-survived a 2 day event at CMP with Panther XP's

No warpage at all.... and not very much wear... just LOTS of 'heat stress' cracks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=181691

Personally, i would of just gone with some autozone blank rotors and some good pads, with some DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid, and if you plan on tracking just use some Motul RBF 600 fluid. Because with daily driving you should be boiling your fuild. I just did my brakes about a month ago, and got the autozone rotors, Cobalt Friction GT Sport Pads, and the ATE Super Blue type 200 fluid (didn't know about the Motul then). And i absolutely love the setup, and i have nothing but good things to say about it and especially the pads and the guys at Cobalt Fricition.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Darn I just ordered from Import RP maybe I can change, why is ATE Super Blue no good?

Well I don't know but I will inspect them regularly...also I am not gonna be abusing them I drive in NY and I don't race only street driving..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not saying they are not good. I myself am currently using it. But if i knew that the Motul RBF 600 is just like 2 or 3 bucks more and has a higher boiling point. So if your already spending money, another few bucks donesn't hurt to get something thats a better.

Motul RBF 600 has a 57 degree higher dry boiling point, and a 28 degree higher wet boiling point.

Ali

Edit: To my belief its not only about you abusing them. But to my understanding they are more vulnerable to failure, like damage from rocks or something of that nature. Some one correct me if im wrong. Try searching around you'll find a lot of information about ss brake lines.

Ali

 

I am gonna send this kit back because after discussing this with someone those are fake. See these single red boxes in the auction? They are FAKE Brembo BLANK boxes which means all they do is buy blank rotors and have an inhouse person do it or outsource it and mark up the price.
Genuine Brembo rotors do NOT come drilled AND slotted together. GENUINE BREMBO come with a gold/bronze coating and the ones in the eBay auction by 88Rotors DON'T... look at the pictures THESE ARE GENUINE BREMBO SPORTS!

Damn.. I am gonna get slotted Brembo Sports, Goodridge SS lines and HAWK HPS pads like yall recomended!

 

I went with your recomendations and got Brembo Blanks, Hawk HPS and ATE Super Blue Fluid.. It comes out cheaper and I am streeting is so I dont wanna risk it w/ drilled/slotted I am gonna send the order back to 88rotors and I think that honda engineers weren't dumb and designed there lines right..

 

Are you referring to me about honda engineers designing the brake lines correctly?

 

Yeah I am sure they are smart and I never seen OEM Honda lines fail on street use..

What do you think about the setup I got?

Brembo Blanks
HAWK HPS Pads
ATE Super Blue