Modified by meanEG at 1:16 AM 1/25/2006

 

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Haven't ever done it myslef, but those look pretty darn good

 

baller style, thats $10 per practice bead...looks too hot to me, Looks like with some practice you will have a nice rhythm though. Did you clean the metal first? how much gas are you using? looks kind of contaminated too.

 

It looks really contaminated.

 

It looks like the dimes are spaced really far apart which leads me to believe you are taking the filler rod out of the sheilding gas inbetween dabs and introducing contamination in the process. It also looks likes you are using to many amps. Maybe you are trying to weld it with full penetration in one pass? If so, you should be doing it in two passes with a filler root pass and a filler cover pass. Search for all threads created by the HT user Engloid. He posted a thread in this forum about doing sch 10 and 40 pipe in two passes. It's probably in the archives by now.

Good luck.

-David

 

your pace looks fine, however, the material is contaminated, and maybe a bit too much heat/ and too little gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I4sillypwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It looks like the dimes are spaced really far apart which leads me to believe you are taking the filler rod out of the sheilding gas inbetween dabs and introducing contamination in the process. It also looks likes you are using to many amps. Maybe you are trying to weld it with full penetration in one pass? If so, you should be doing it in two passes with a filler root pass and a filler cover pass. Search for all threads created by the HT user Engloid. He posted a thread in this forum about doing sch 10 and 40 pipe in two passes. It's probably in the archives by now.

Good luck.

-David</TD></TR></TABLE>

This man knows what he's talking about...Listen to him. I'd like to meet you someday, and talk welding with you. I'm always up for learning, my buddy kyle came up and bought that ls trans from you, i wanted to roll up there, but i had **** goin on that day.

 

gas at 20

you called it with pulling the filler out of the gas

i made 2 passes first no filler, second with filler stainless 306

heat at 60A, now i am second guessing myself, maybe 80 amps. i do know i had time to make a bead, it didnt seem hot enough to burn through.

as far as a practice bead for $10 yea i know. i already swallowed it. this is the first project, a turbo manifold.

something like this quality may not be 100% i realize, but manifold material, is it strong enough. i have pretty consistant penatration inside.

when i try adjusting heat my welds always look the same, dull and grey

i am using 3/32 filler rod. i wiped everything down with carb cleaner

thanks for the help anyone else?

 

Dont use your kitty as filler material .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont use your kitty as filler material .</TD></TR></TABLE>


LMFAO!

yeah you need more Gas flow and maybe turn the heat down a bit and get positioned so you can do a little at a time instead of a lot.

 

ok i will try heat, tomorrow. turn gas higher than 20 how much more is suggested?

oh yea the cat hates it when i fill with his leg. mf runs and hides

 

don't go over 25 fpm....anything over that can hurt the weld, and is not needed. Go fast, and your shakey as hell. Try leaning up against something until you find what you are looking for. Get a very concentrated arc, and waite for the molten puddle to form, push it along, and if the puddle gets skimpy, add filler, its that simple, add is consistently thru the puddle in almost a rythym, and keep the filler rod very close to the puddle for two reasons, gas helps it be clean and free of harmful bullshit, and two it keeps the tip a cherry red wich can make it easier to drop off filler into the puddle wich can keep you moving at a good pace, and not stopping and getting the metal any hotter than it needs to be. Does that make sense?

Keep your tungsten in the join, and let the filler fill the joint. Pin point accuracy, and keeping it from vearing off from side to side will keep your heat effected zone down, and also keep the beed looking pimp and uniform, also gives you great penetration.

 

word, ill hack the pipe and bevel clean and try again.

 

i wish i had a tig i could go out in my garage and just weld **** up

for you being able to.

 

I was told 13cfm is good enough. Anything else is getting to high.

 

looks to me like serious contamination. your beads will come with consistency and time.

I wouldnt use break cleaner. the pipe from mcmaster comes pretty clean. just take a 4.5" grinder with a sanding wheel on it (cant describe what its actually called...kind of like a cross buff) and go around the parts you're going to weld. The break cleaner may be contaminating your weld too!

try smaller filler rod...less heat...and go slower.

 

oh and that is $11.40 worth of practice material, not 10 :-P (not including shipping, argon, or filler rod...not to mention electricity, heat, etc.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~RTErnie~ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and that is $11.40 worth of practice material, not 10 :-P (not including shipping, argon, or filler rod...not to mention electricity, heat, etc.) </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you shopping at mcmaster? try ace stainless sent a pm to: mbpwrx

 

would you trust this on a mnaifold? just beause its contaminated did it really hurt the strenghth for a manifold?

 

yes it does. i would not trust those welds on a manifold.

 

im using ace now...i didnt know they did bends as well. I will DEF order all my stuff through them now.

mbpwrx is da man