Well its been a few years since I've bought new stereo equipment, and i'm not sure what to buy. I'm going to redo my whole system in my '92 civic hatchback, except for my deck.

So here is what I'm thinking

Head Unit :Kenwood excelon KDC-x889

Front doors: 6 1/2" components possibly infinity kappa perfects?

Rear quarters: 6 1/2" mid base (not sure what would sound good)

Sub: 12" ???

I have two older PPI amps that I might use, a 2120 and a 460.
I just got done sound deadning my car,so now its time to upgrade.
I don't really have a buget and i don't mind paying for quality. my main concern is the sound quality.

Any advise would be great, thanks.

 

kappa perfects would sound nice. make sure you have a good amp for them with plenty of power, they handle 100watts rms each. with perfect components, its not relaly an option to get an amp for them or not cuz nomatter what, they need alot of power to drive them properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kappa perfects would sound nice. make sure you have a good amp for them with plenty of power, they handle 100watts rms each. with perfect components, its not relaly an option to get an amp for them or not cuz nomatter what, they need alot of power to drive them properly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I always liked the sound of infinity components. I never heard the perfects, but I'm sure their nice.
As far as an amp goes my PPI only does 60x4, but I was told that PPI is under rated in power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea I always liked the sound of infinity components. I never heard the perfects, but I'm sure their nice.
As far as an amp goes my PPI only does 60x4, but I was told that PPI is under rated in power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

PPI is underrated in power hopefully you have an older one they are way better than the newer ones. I have two art series ppi amps a 25x4 and a 200x2 and the 25x4 actaully pushed my mb quart componets and a single 10 inch sub and sounded amazing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hb420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PPI is underrated in power hopefully you have an older one they are way better than the newer ones. I have two art series ppi amps a 25x4 and a 200x2 and the 25x4 actaully pushed my mb quart componets and a single 10 inch sub and sounded amazing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are both PCX(power class pro competition amplifier). They are about 3 1/2 yrs old. They were expensive but worth every penny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well its been a few years since I've bought new stereo equipment, and i'm not sure what to buy. I'm going to redo my whole system in my '92 civic hatchback, except for my deck.

So here is what I'm thinking

Head Unit :Kenwood excelon KDC-x889

Front doors: 6 1/2" components possibly infinity kappa perfects?

Rear quarters: 6 1/2" mid base (not sure what would sound good)

Sub: 12" ???

I have two older PPI amps that I might use, a 2120 and a 460.
I just got done sound deadning my car,so now its time to upgrade.
I don't really have a buget and i don't mind paying for quality. my main concern is the sound quality.

Any advise would be great, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think you'll need rear quarters unless you have the need for fader control (e.g. rear stage) or a mid range fequency fill. What's your budget estimate? Quality can range from $100.00 to $2000.00+.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think you'll need rear quarters unless you have the need for fader control (e.g. rear stage) or a mid range fequency fill. What's your budget estimate? Quality can range from $100.00 to $2000.00+. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking of making some boxes and mounting them in the rear quarter panels, and crossing them over as mid base only drivers. I like deep low bass, and I like tight bass also, and the front speakers just don't do it for me. Right now my car has a set of boston acustic coaxils and alpine tweeters up front run by a 50x2 rockford amp, and a ecplise 12" in a bandpass box run by a soundstream amp. It sounds ok, but I want better sound quality.

As far as a budget I don't really have one. I don't mind putting together a system over time if I can't afford everything all at once.

 

design,

midbass drivers wont get you low bass. low end and tight somewhat contradict each other. they are 2 different areas of the freq range.

shoot me an email, albert@mobilesq.com or hit me on aim gsr5zigen. there is a lot of stuff i want to cover but dont have much time right now to explain everything.

lets get you dont right!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">design,

midbass drivers wont get you low bass. low end and tight somewhat contradict each other. they are 2 different areas of the freq range.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

just like subs wont give you highs. midbass drivers are designed for that frequency range and its often the most neglected.

and FYI....tight is not an area of the freqency range.

As for the propsed system. scrap the rear midbass drivers and scrap the front components. take the money you had allocated for those and get a 3 way set of components for the front. midbass in teh doors, and mids/ tweets in a pair of kicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">design,

midbass drivers wont get you low bass. low end and tight somewhat contradict each other. they are 2 different areas of the freq range.

shoot me an email, albert@mobilesq.com or hit me on aim gsr5zigen. there is a lot of stuff i want to cover but dont have much time right now to explain everything.

lets get you dont right!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Were you referring to HIboost or me?

 

So what you guys are saying is that I can't have mide bass and low bass. If thats true then that sucks. It seems that every sytem that I've had is either real low boomy bass or tight loud bass. But I listen to alot of different typs of music, so while rap sounds good on my current system, rock doesn't sound so good. It's weird because what sounds good on my bandpass box doesn't sound good on my girlfriends sealed box, and vise versa. So what I'm trying to do is get the best of both worlds.

As far as kick panels and the mid base in my door, I just figured I could build a small box for a 6 1/2 mid base driver and mount it in the rear quarter with a custom bracket where the stock speakers would go. this way it will be hidden and look clean. Also I was under the impression that if I use kick panels, Iwould have to move my ECU.

Thanks for all the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what you guys are saying is that I can't have mide bass and low bass. If thats true then that sucks. It seems that every sytem that I've had is either real low boomy bass or tight loud bass. But I listen to alot of different typs of music, so while rap sounds good on my current system, rock doesn't sound so good. It's weird because what sounds good on my bandpass box doesn't sound good on my girlfriends sealed box, and vise versa. So what I'm trying to do is get the best of both worlds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can have both. you can have midbass with really tight low bass. its all in how you set it up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as kick panels and the mid base in my door, I just figured I could build a small box for a 6 1/2 mid base driver and mount it in the rear quarter with a custom bracket where the stock speakers would go. this way it will be hidden and look clean. Also I was under the impression that if I use kick panels, Iwould have to move my ECU.

Thanks for all the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont want anything but subs in the rear. Even though you will have to move your ECU to build kick panels, they're more than worth it plus it gives you the option of mounting midbass drivers in the doors.

 

what is tight EBP? low end extension is tight? wtf? midbass is snappy where the attack should not have any type of overhang. that is what i am referring to as tight. 25hz cant snap and the attack is rumbling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is tight EBP? low end extension is tight? wtf? midbass is snappy where the attack should not have any type of overhang. that is what i am referring to as tight. 25hz cant snap and the attack is rumbling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

snappy? overhang? attack? exactly what the hell are you talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is tight EBP? low end extension is tight? wtf? midbass is snappy where the attack should not have any type of overhang. that is what i am referring to as tight. 25hz cant snap and the attack is rumbling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

???

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can have both. you can have midbass with really tight low bass. its all in how you set it up.

you dont want anything but subs in the rear. Even though you will have to move your ECU to build kick panels, they're more than worth it plus it gives you the option of mounting midbass drivers in the doors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I get what you are saying. Mid bass is possible with the subs, just don't mount them in the rear quarters. So where is a good place to relocate the ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok I get what you are saying. Mid bass is possible with the subs, just don't mount them in the rear quarters. So where is a good place to relocate the ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well...midbass will typically be in the upper part of the subs frequency range so the ideal setup is to have dedicated midbass drivers in the front. with dedicated midbass drivers you will not only increase sq by having improved midbass response but you will also increase SQ in the mids by minimizing the excursion as they're no longer playing the lower end of the freq range.

As for relocating your ECU, i'm assuming you have a 6th gen civic (your avatar) which is not too dificult. you've got a few options, 1 being to make a harness extension which can be annoying and i'm not sure where you'd buy the plugs. 2, you can cut the wires and splice in a new longer piece. this is also way too much work for me. 3 make a custom bracket and hang your ECU where the passenger's feet would normally be if they totally stretched out.

 

Alright so I got a plan for the layout, now what companys should I go with. What would be your top choices for speakers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">snappy? overhang? attack? exactly what the hell are you talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you not familiar with these terms?

midbass attack should be quick and snappy. that is what i am referring to. accurate, not sloppy where the attack sounds overhung. if you dont get what i am saying, then you wont get it at all.

where is your experience in building a car system? iirc you do home stuff.

home and car are 2 different things. car is much more difficult.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you not familiar with these terms?

midbass attack should be quick and snappy. that is what i am referring to. accurate, not sloppy where the attack sounds overhung. if you dont get what i am saying, then you wont get it at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol...everything should be quick. you bass, midbass, mids and highs. if any part of your system sounds sloppy then you have either shitty components or a shitting install or a combination of both. theres should be no "overhang" in any part of the frequency range.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is your experience in building a car system? iirc you do home stuff.

home and car are 2 different things. car is much more difficult.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're right. primarily i'm into home audio because i can't do what i want in a car. regardless though, the principles are still the same, its just the insallation thats different and the goal is still the same. if i may ask, what experience do you have with high end audio be it car or home?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright so I got a plan for the layout, now what companys should I go with. What would be your top choices for speakers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much are you willing to spend?

 

I think i know what sq kuk is talking about.

That snap is in the 80hz area. Thats the tight sound and feel.

bass should have good transient response, but it won't sound tight. Subs that sounds tights are playing midbass also. If crossed over correctly, say at 60hz with a very steep xover slope, then the bass will sound sloppy. Thats the nature of bass without midbass.

low end rumble and that tight attack occurs at different frequency. Most drivers, like focal, will have punchy midbass, but you can acheive that tight bass if you have the focal in the right enclosure, and then use a parametric EQ with a high Q factor, and then increase ~70hz by a few db.

Is this what you're talking about sq kuk?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how much are you willing to spend?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would like to keep it some what affordable, but I don't mind paying for something that is worth it. Also, if it does exceed my budget, I don't mind saving a few pay checks to get what i want. So in other words, I don't have a budget, but I don't need the most expensive speakers out there. Just some thing that will sound good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HIboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would like to keep it some what affordable, but I don't mind paying for something that is worth it. Also, if it does exceed my budget, I don't mind saving a few pay checks to get what i want. So in other words, I don't have a budget, but I don't need the most expensive speakers out there. Just some thing that will sound good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so again...how much are you willing to spend? some people say they're willing to pay for quality but then say that $500 is way too much.

 

Sorry to thread steal but I want to know also. Right now I have a Alpine 9835 headunit and I would like to know what would be a nice set of component 6' 1/2 speakers, amp and a subwoofer. My budget would be around $1000 for all that. Also, I plan to put these into a s2000 by the end of the year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to thread steal but I want to know also. Right now I have a Alpine 9835 headunit and I would like to know what would be a nice set of component 6' 1/2 speakers, amp and a subwoofer. My budget would be around $1000 for all that. Also, I plan to put these into a s2000 by the end of the year.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey buddy, i am from 626 also, should be getting my s2000 soon as my type r was stolen.

maybe we can meet up sometime and hang out. if youre looking for good quality equipment, you can come with me to the IASCA SQ competitions at Image dynamics in Gardena. happens once a month and there is one scheduled at the end of february.

what city do u live in.


EBP SI, i install at 2 high end shops, IASCA competitor, placed 3rd in my class at world finals 2005 and so on. i am still learning though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SQ Kuk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey buddy, i am from 626 also, should be getting my s2000 soon as my type r was stolen.

maybe we can meet up sometime and hang out. if youre looking for good quality equipment, you can come with me to the IASCA SQ competitions at Image dynamics in Gardena. happens once a month and there is one scheduled at the end of february.

what city do u live in.


EBP SI, i install at 2 high end shops, IASCA competitor, placed 3rd in my class at world finals 2005 and so on. i am still learning though.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds good, I live in rosemead. Maybe we can meet here this wednesday

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1506331