Car: Wife's '99 CR-V
Engine: B20Z2 with 80k miles

Symptoms: When engine is cold, it will sometimes stall when coming to a stop. Ie, if I back out of the driveway, it will sometimes stall when I shift from R into D. When engine is not fully warm (ie, open loop), it will hesitate for a second when taking off from a stop. Things smooth out quite a bit once the engine is fully warm, but it still doesn't idle quite right. It runs fine at cruising speed and MPG is about normal.

I've replaced:
-Plugs (with NGK OEM replacements)
-Plug wires (OEM Honda)
-Fuel filter (OEM Honda)
-Cap and Rotor (OEM Honda)
-I removed the IACV and cleaned the screen...it was pretty dirty. I thought I had found the problem, but this didn't cure it.

I've tested:
Intake air temp sensor
Water temp sensor
Throttle position sensor (TPS)
MAP sensor
Fuel pressure regulator
Coil
Ignitor

I'm out of ideas.

Help?

Thanks,
Sonny

 

Check FITV, has a lot to do with cold motor characteristics.

Might want to redo your base idle for shitss and giggles too....

 

Bleed the cooling system?

 

the amount of money you spent on throwing parts at your car, you probably could have brought it to a shop and had it fixed for cheaper....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the amount of money you spent on throwing parts at your car, you probably could have brought it to a shop and had it fixed for cheaper....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You think a shop is going to know more than the combined knowledge of everyone on honda-tech? Yeah right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You think a shop is going to know more than the combined knowledge of everyone on honda-tech? Yeah right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i do. I would bet that about half the people on this board have no clue what they're talking about. I wouldn't really trust someone that much with fixing my car with an opinion. If it was a sticky and had pictures on how to fix something because of problems that have occured with many people, then yeah i would trust it. 3/4 of the people on this site are probably between the ages of 15 and 23, hardly have any knowledge of solving diagnostic issues.

 

shops search honda-tech

do you have to hold the throttle a bit when you cold-start the car? if so, sounds like your FITV isnt opening properly.
good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah i do. I would bet that about half the people on this board have no clue what they're talking about. I wouldn't really trust someone that much with fixing my car with an opinion. If it was a sticky and had pictures on how to fix something because of problems that have occured with many people, then yeah i would trust it. 3/4 of the people on this site are probably between the ages of 15 and 23, hardly have any knowledge of solving diagnostic issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when it comes to getting good info on forums, it's all about finding and listening to the few people that really know what they are talking about, and not listening to the many that don't.

 

i had similar problems and it turned out to be my map sensor even though it che cked out good it was faulty, go to a junkyard and pick one up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danerr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shops search honda-tech </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you know this from personal experience? I've worked in 5 shops and never saw anyone go on the internet and search a car forum for an answer when getting paid to solve someones problem. That's why they go to school and take those little test we like to call ASE's.

 

this is a help thread not a convo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93c1sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the amount of money you spent on throwing parts at your car, you probably could have brought it to a shop and had it fixed for cheaper....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't "throw money" at anything that wasn't due for replacement. The cap/rotor/plugs were all worn. Plug wires were baked. Fuel filters are "lifetime" filters, but I've seen them plug before...particularly on cars that have been run out of fuel numerous times.

This type of problem is often caused by worn stuff in the ignition. However, that is not the case this time. If I buy anything else without further testing, then yes, I will be throwing money at it...something I do not want to do. Hence, the reason for my post.

I appreciate the input so far. I don't have a lot of newer (OBD2) Honda parts, so part swapping is a little more tricky. I'll give it another day of troubleshooting and I don't get it, I'll have to swallow my pride and take it to the dealer.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danerr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is a help thread not a convo</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? thanks for the advice. I guess I didn't know where I was posting.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danerr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is a help thread not a convo</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? thanks for the advice. I guess I didn't know where I was posting.......i gave my advice, take it a good shop.

 

for me car shops are a last resort. some of us like the feeling of fixing it ourselves and saving money is great. also plenty to learn when fixing things yourself.

 

I'd bet my life that no shop in the country knows more about my car than I do. I started off on h-t not knowing how to change my oil, and just by browsing the forum every day, I learned enough to do the frame-off restoration I finished last year.

And besides, Sonny isn't exactly a noob, and he's not an idiot - I'm sure he wasn't blindly buying replacement parts to solve the problem.

 

and when we have car problems, sometimes we like fixing it ourselves because we dont trust ANYONE to do it for us, even if they are ASE certified. IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT, THEN DO IT YOURSELF...(if you have the capability to do so). ive seen a lot of shady mechanics in my time, and ive seen A LOT of dumb mechanics who passed ASE's, and couldnt diagnose something as simple as A BROKEN ENGINE MOUNT, OR FRIED PLUG WIRES. i'm not out to harp on mechanics, cuz they have to make a living too.....but sorry, if i dont KNOW the mechanic personally, then they wont lay a finger on my baby, let alone turn a single bolt on it.

 

Hey mwn I am a ase master I have ben seeing this problem alot lately in toyotas and hondas I have been fixing most of them with a simple fuel injection service. I ena actually hooking up the tank and straight running the car off the bottle you will probally have to go to a shop but it will more then likely fix the problem you can also try gm topend cleaner I havent used it but I have heard it worked for a couple techs on the other side of the state. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hAILO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check FITV, has a lot to do with cold motor characteristics...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danerr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... sounds like your FITV isnt opening properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a 1999, so it probably doesn't have an FITV. That function is built into the IACV.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hAILO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might want to redo your base idle for shitss and giggles too....</TD></TR></TABLE>That would be a good one. If the base idle is off, the IACV would have a harder time holding idle when it's cold.

Normally, you set base idle like this...

Warm up engine completely, turn off all accessory loads. Unplug IACV, jumper SCS connector.

Adjust idle to whatever rpm (500?) is called for on your year/model. This isn't the normal operating idle, it's much lower because IACV is unplugged.

Turn off engine, plug IACV back in, remove SCS jumper, reset ECU. Start & idle for 10 minutes, without touching the throttle.

Sometimes the IACV is just bad, & cleaning it doesn't help...

 

checked timing?

 

When you say it hesitates from a stop when warm,(i know its an automagic tranny) is it almost like the clutch is slipping on a manual car?

 

try cleaning the throttle body
maybe carboned up from 80k miles

 

the exhaust valves are tight due to poorly designed seats in the head. i know this sounds crazy but i will bet my life they are tight. i have been a honda tech for almost 10 years and have seen this dozens of times. if you continue to drive it like this it will eventually burn an exhaust valve. it sometimes is acompanied by CEL with misfire codes too, but not always. pull your valve cover off and check the exhaust clearences i bet you can't even get the feeler gauge between the rocker and the cam lobe.

this was a very common problem on all B20s, so much so Honda was requesting the heads to be taken off and sent back if they burnt a valve under warrenty. i have seen them burn with as low as 15k miles on em

Check the valves!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its a .018mm BTW (exhaust clearence)

 

o2 sensor ok?

 

the guy needs to fix his wife's car. If he feels he does not have the knowlegde to fix the car, then it is wise to bring it to a shop. There is more OFF topic conversation here than what the tread is meant for, which is technical advice. REMEMBER, help him correct his problem and theres $20 in it for you

I do not have the knowledge to help you either...most of my ideas you have tested or be said before. I have seen this problem on my car and a friends...

my car was due to the iacv. another time it was the map sensor for my friend.

Like what Jimblake said, try unplugging the sensor when the car is cold, is if it affects anything. If it does, then its not the problem.

Good Luck!!!