i want to adjust my toe but the piece that adjusts it is rusted and i cant turn it so i decided to replace it but i dont know how to take it off

any ideas?

 

youre going to have to be more specific......

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...5.pdf

 

item #20...he means the input shaft

 

#20 is not called the input shaft. that is the inner tie rod.

 

You can turn the outer tie rod inwards if you are trying to turn the inner tie rod...I normally just get an allignment.

 

he didn't even say which end of the car he was talking about

 

im talking about the front or the car the tie rods are rusted shut and i cant adjust my toe i got new tires and the toe was so off that it fuked up my tires so before i get it allined i want to fix it a little(i plan to buy new outer tie rods

 

after taking the cotter pin out and loosening the castle nut (dont remove all the way, keep it loosely threaded), you need to pop off the balljoint (its not a bushing).

there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.

then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.

get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after taking the cotter pin out and loosening the castle nut (dont remove all the way, keep it loosely threaded), you need to pop off the balljoint (its not a bushing).

there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.

then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.

get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd like to add that a jack with something (whatever makes it work) on top can help with the vertical force, and often keeps the whacking to a minimum. i don't like ruining the nice new paint on my control arms.

 

here is a pic

 

thats the inner tie rod. hold up a second, let me find the instructions.

 

yhea sry in a newbie to hondas

 

yeah, those are a bitch. theyre lock washers that prevent the tie rod from coming off. i just did them the other night on a steering rack i had to ship out.

ill tell you this much, its MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to take them out when the rack is off the car.

youre SUPPOSED to stick a small screwdriver in there and UNBEND the tabs on both sides. what sucks is that when its installed in the car, the angles can almost be inaccessible. it helped a lot that i had a really small snap-on pick and pry bar to help pry it away. then i used a vice grip to completely flatten the piece. once its flat on both sides, you can unscrew the tie rod from the rack using a 19mm and 22mm wrench, respectively.

HOWEVER, this is my ghetto way of doing it. just get an adjustable wrench in there, dont worry about unbending the tabs. and wrench the damn thing off. if you can get a good grip on it, you can overcome the lock washer and it will just break. then just buy another one for $2. its worth the trouble.

good luck, i know theyre a pain.

btw, are you doing the passenger side? or both sides? if youre doing the passenger side, now is a GREAT time to replace that steering rack end bushing.

the rack end bushing is an OEM part. just get it from the dealer or something. if you look inside the passenger side of the steering rack, its the white plastic thingy. and it only comes out with the tie rod off.

heres more info.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

hopefully youve figured all this out by now.

this is the rack end bushing. looking from the passenger side.



here it is completely out.



now this is what we're talking about. the lcok washer. see how the tabs are bent.



here they are flattened. i used the vice grip to flatten it completely.





this is the tool i had available that made it a bit easier. i also used a small, sharp screw driver. first i used the pick side of the pry tool to punch the tab open a bit. then used the small screwdriver to open it up a little. then further opened it with the pry bar side of the pick. then finished it off with the vice grip.

like i said, much easier when its out of the car. its nearly impossible to do under the car. of course it helps if you drop the 4 bolts of the steering rack to get more wiggle room too. but its still crowded under there. having done this both ways now, i can say its worth the time to take the rack out completely.

 

cool thank i try it tommorow its getting to cold to do it now

 

how do you take off the steering rack i got all the bolts off from the bottom but it doesnt want to come off its attatched to the steering column

 

take off the steering column cover and loosen the 10mm bolt at the bottom.

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...5.pdf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after taking the cotter pin out and loosening the castle nut (dont remove all the way, keep it loosely threaded), you need to pop off the balljoint (its not a bushing).

there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.

then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.

get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Tyson I think ive read these words from your mouth about 8 diff. times on other posts lol. Yea with all the other civics you can just unbolt the steering rack basically, but in the crx you have to do alot more ****, correct?

 

no i dont think civics are any different. on EGs, the inner rack is a bit different from what ive seen but still the same balljoint and tie rod design, and they use a 19mm locknut, instead of the abnormally huge 22mm. i think the outer tie rods are the same part number. but its all the same in practice as far as i know.

 

yo my stupid stering rack is stuck, the stick that goes to the steering wheel wont come out of the hole

how do i take it out?

 

you mean the pinion.

try loosening the big adjustment nut and take the spring and retainer out. then you can push the bearing and pinion straight out. youll probably need a new bearing and seal.

 

where is the adjustment bolt?

 

look up at my pics. its got yellow paint on it.

use a channel lock wrench, its the only wrench available that will open up big enough to open that big *** lock nut. i had to use some sockets and extensions on the handles to get enough torque on it.

 

cool thx i finnally got it out thx for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look up at my pics. its got yellow paint on it.

use a channel lock wrench, its the only wrench available that will open up big enough to open that big *** lock nut. i had to use some sockets and extensions on the handles to get enough torque on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you do mean the only wrench available in your toolbox, right?

 

"readily" available.

you need a friggin huge locomotive sized wrench to take that off...