pros/cons of an crx Si
well this is my first actually thread..didnt know wehre to post this. my bros friend is selling an crx Si, but i've always wanted a dx or hf. price is pretty decent and car is somewhat clean (just a few things to fix, nothign big). so i wanna hear some pros and cons of having an Si..
cons...it is heavier....
pros 90-91 have rear disc brakes, the seats are sexy as hell, its mpfi,1.6 vs a 1.5, better tranny, has a tach in the gauge cluster
pros 90-91 have rear disc brakes, the seats are sexy as hell, its mpfi,1.6 vs a 1.5, better tranny, has a tach in the gauge cluster
what can i do to get rid of the moonroof? i was thinking glasstop maybe.haha but i wanan get into road racing/autocross..so that out of the question..
If you are gonna be doing the Auto-x get the si. Saves you time and money, and you will be stripping out all the weight anyways. You start out with the disc brakes, mpfi (do the D15b vtec swap) it's a great car. If the price is good, don't keep shopping around.
hf 1967lbs dx 2103 lbs si 2174 lbs
dx has no tach, dp pgm-fi, no rear disc brakes
hf no rear disc brakes, coeffeciency drag of .29, dx and si at .30,
si front & rear stabizer bars, sport suspension, front rear disc brakes, overall stronger chassis. no cons to having an si other than added weight due to reinforced chassis and commodities/niceties both performance and comfort related.
dx has no tach, dp pgm-fi, no rear disc brakes
hf no rear disc brakes, coeffeciency drag of .29, dx and si at .30,
si front & rear stabizer bars, sport suspension, front rear disc brakes, overall stronger chassis. no cons to having an si other than added weight due to reinforced chassis and commodities/niceties both performance and comfort related.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gnar kill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cons...it is heavier....
,better tranny, has a tach in the gauge cluster</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boylovecar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hf 1967lbs dx 2103 lbs si 2174 lbs
dx has no tach, </TD></TR></TABLE>
All 88-91 crx si/dx/hf models have tachs.
cant forget the crx si door pannels... they say crx on them look alot better
and didint the stock crx si have a more of a high flow muffler on it and a more powerfull fuel pump???
and didint the stock crx si have a more of a high flow muffler on it and a more powerfull fuel pump???
For G-stock or Street Touring 2 autocross, get the Si.... any year will do.
For any other class, where you can swap the motor or the transmission parts, go with a DX or HF.
For any other class, where you can swap the motor or the transmission parts, go with a DX or HF.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigcalidave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are gonna be doing the Auto-x get the si. Saves you time and money, and you will be stripping out all the weight anyways. You start out with the disc brakes, mpfi (do the D15b vtec swap) it's a great car. If the price is good, don't keep shopping around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
2006 has some hope!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For G-stock or Street Touring 2 autocross, get the Si.... any year will do.
For any other class, where you can swap the motor or the transmission parts, go with a DX or HF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm going to have to disagree here. you are 100% correct for someone with a lot of autox experience, or someone building a dedicated car, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.
the si is absolutely the best platform to start with here, regardless of other factors.
stock, it is no comparison as a dd or autox car, and any class that allows motor swaps is going to be a terrible place to start learning how to dodge cones.
you may not care now about winning( which is good, because you won't be winning in most places), but if you are like most normal people you will care about getting better and not looking stupid.
the best thing to do, imho, is to get a stock si and get some seat time. then if you decide you like it, get a rulebook and build for a street class, excluding sm2 for now. search the ax/rr forum and you will find rock solid advice previously given to lots of people who had the same questions before.
later you will have a car that can be built to fit into a lot of good classes (i still think i had the most fun in csp) and you will have learned a lot more. a limited car simply can't hide the mistakes that big sticky rubber (csp) or healthy power (sm2 or mod) can and you'll get better faster.
2006 has some hope!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For G-stock or Street Touring 2 autocross, get the Si.... any year will do.
For any other class, where you can swap the motor or the transmission parts, go with a DX or HF.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm going to have to disagree here. you are 100% correct for someone with a lot of autox experience, or someone building a dedicated car, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.
the si is absolutely the best platform to start with here, regardless of other factors.
stock, it is no comparison as a dd or autox car, and any class that allows motor swaps is going to be a terrible place to start learning how to dodge cones.
you may not care now about winning( which is good, because you won't be winning in most places), but if you are like most normal people you will care about getting better and not looking stupid.
the best thing to do, imho, is to get a stock si and get some seat time. then if you decide you like it, get a rulebook and build for a street class, excluding sm2 for now. search the ax/rr forum and you will find rock solid advice previously given to lots of people who had the same questions before.
later you will have a car that can be built to fit into a lot of good classes (i still think i had the most fun in csp) and you will have learned a lot more. a limited car simply can't hide the mistakes that big sticky rubber (csp) or healthy power (sm2 or mod) can and you'll get better faster.
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