i just got sync 200, i am having numerous problems with8 my welding. 1st when i lay a bead down on steel, the weld cools and cracks, i am sure that is going to be a problem on a manifold. 2nd i can get a real puddle going iin aluminum. 3rd sometimes when i weld alum or steel the weld gets covered in black or brown soot.

what am i doing wrong? thanks guys.

 

1. how thick is the material you are welding?
2. what are your settings? (amperage, ac/dc straight polarity or reverse)
3. what filler are you using? (it should be stamped on the wire)
4. what gas are you using? (straight argon, or an argon/co2 mix)
5. what type of tungsten electrode are you using and how did you prepare it?
6. is your material clean? what did you clean it with?

1. don't touch your electrode to your base material or filler metal, if you do, stop, clean your material and electrode then start over.
2. try and keep your filler wire close enough so that it will always be in your shielding gas to prevent contamination.
3. try pre-heating your base material before you weld it to prevent cracking.

give us some details and i'm sure you will find some solutions in the answers to follow.

 

Sounds to me like there's no gas. Will be much easier to tell if we could see some pics...

 

turn off machine....hold down your process button...turn on machine...keep holding button for 7 seconds.... set post purge time to 8 seconds for Stainless...and like 3 for aluminum.

When you get those black specs turn down your Balance setting on your ac. Factory setting is 7(if you clean the metal better you're less likely to get "peppered" welds) For dirty aluminum try something like 4.5-5...all depends. Try a lower balance setting (IE more EP+ (cleaning))

the lower you put your balance (IE closer to 1) the more cleaning action EP+...the higher you put your balance (IE closer to 10) the more penetration action EN-




For a an ALUMINUM process tungsten sizing chart...


If your steel welds are cracking it could be because you're letting off the pedal too quickly, not enough post purge, possible just not enough heat

For not being able to get a puddle started...not enough heat. Crank the power up 1/4" aluminum I turn the machine up to nearly 200 and rip. You will probably weld at a slower pace so...150-175 should work.

Brown color is no shielding gas.

Black is when your tungsten hits the aluminum.

good luck

 

ernie good post, i didnt know u need that much amperage to weld alum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ernie good post, i didnt know u need that much amperage to weld alum.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously, took care of everything in one shot, nice job!

 

welding on a rotor about .375 inch.

200 amps to 120

3/32 filler, but i dont use any

using 100 argon

i used the orange band for a/c alum amd mild

i did not clean it.

as far as rtearnie:
i tried teh differant balance controls from 1-15, i am not getting black specs i an getting the entire bead coverd
th epost pugre i dont thinkis the problem. the weld sometimes crack while i am still arcing down farther. the post purge is set 8.

i had gas set at 20, any other reasons for color.

SORRY I STILL CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO ADD PICTURES.

 

You are welding on a brake rotor? If you are that would explain the cracking. They are cast and welding on cast is never fun.

for pics just host them on a free site ie imagestation, photobucket, etc.. (do a google search) then put the img tags around the image address like this [img]the image address goes here [ /img]

don't use the spaces i did on the last tag.

 

maybe i am the silly one.

ad afar as the pictures i tried that.

 

the reason why its cracking is because its such a large piece of metal... and you're increasing the temp to 1500+ in a localized area. PREHEAT THE WHOLE ROTOR before welding. Cracking will be minimized if not eliminated. Good luck.

if the aluminum is cracking...add filler and more heat.

 

Try welding something different for sure. Pick up some flat stock or something. Welding on a rotor is far far far less than an ideal basemetal for your first time tig welding.

 

ok i shall do that.

 

What is the flow rate on your gas? If you have too much gas flowing it can make the weld cool too fast and cause it to be brittle and brake as well.

 

ill pay atttention to that.

 

my flow is set at 20 and i am still getting a lot of porosity in steel. any ideas on most common problems?

 

tig welding can be caused by, lack of shielding gas, unweldable metal *cough cough*, or a severe contamination of the filler rod/tungsten...

 

well i had good gas a,d it was mild steal last time. maybe it was absolutley filthy.

why am i getting the beads covered in brown soot?

<U>i have a second post, please refer to this. there are pics available in there. thanks for the help. </U>


Modified by meanEG at 5:18 AM 1/25/2006


Modified by meanEG at 5:20 AM 1/25/2006