okay, quick question. what do you guy think? i put my gsr crank and bolt all the main caps with bearings onto my gsr blockand after bolting all the caps i couldnt turn the crank around. it feels like it stuck. do you guyz think the crank is bad or needs to be balance? or is the block messed up?

 

Did you use the right torque specs? I know if you over torque, the crank either won't turn, or it will, and eventually you'll spin a bearing. Also, did you use some assembly lube or maybe some oil when you reassembled everything. Did you do a fresh rebuild, or just take it apart?

 

i'm doing a fresh build up from bottom to top. and i bought the block from this dude and i was just testing to c if the crank would spin just in case of any spun bearing. but when i bolt the main caps to the crank it won't spin. i even grease up the bearing and the crank's journal. so do you guy think it had a spun bearing?

 

Are you using the correct bearings? There are different sizes.

Acuraparts247.com 2001 GSR Crank Parts

 

yea i am, but i guess i'll just take it to the shop to c if anything wrong with it. anyone know what an good price for balancing a crank and (if they charge) to check if the block is in working condition?

 

Have you tried plastigage to check the bearing clearances?

 

are you using stock pistons & rods, or aftermarket ones?

 

If you just tightened everything down without using the proper torque specs as indicated in the repair manual (whether it be factory, Haynes or Helms etc.), the crank may not turn because you could have over torqued the bolts. Also, you should platigage your setup to make sure you are using the right bearings for your setup. These are KEY items in doing a rebuild.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ Gurgla GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you using stock pistons & rods, or aftermarket ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm using OEM b16 piston with gsr rods.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDA_TYPE_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you just tightened everything down without using the proper torque specs as indicated in the repair manual (whether it be factory, Haynes or Helms etc.), the crank may not turn because you could have over torqued the bolts. Also, you should platigage your setup to make sure you are using the right bearings for your setup. These are KEY items in doing a rebuild.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just tighten it with one hand and even with just the main cap label 3 it still won't spin. try using a ls crank too still don't turn. and what is plastigage?

 

did you match the bearing to that of the cranks speks?

if you are taking to the shop tell them to knife edge the crank and flair the oil ducts and balance it..

you will love that trust me.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poorman’s type-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just tighten it with one hand and even with just the main cap label 3 it still won't spin. try using a ls crank too still don't turn. and what is plastigage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Plastigage is plastic strips that you install between part to check clearances. For a crankshaft, you would install the crank into the block with out the caps, place a strip of plastigage onto each crank journal, instal and torque the caps, then remove the caps to read how much the plastigage was crushed. The amount of crushing indicates the clearance.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Tools/plastigage.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you match the bearing to that of the cranks speks?

if you are taking to the shop tell them to knife edge the crank and flair the oil ducts and balance it..

you will love that trust me.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much is that going to cost? and what does it do?

 

If you reassemble the motor without plastigaging it, and using the proper torque specs as dictated in a reputable repair manual, you run a serious risk of having your motor grenade itself. Read up on platigaging a motor. I've never physically done it, but I have watched a number of times. It involves placing a strip of platigage on your mains and rods, you torque it down properly, then loosen, measure the strips width, and that will allow you to choose the proper bearings. This is just all in a nutshell. I may have missed some of the vitals.

Flairing out your oil ducts will help to improve lubrication. Knife edging the crank will reduce your rotational losses due to less rotating mass at the ends of the counterweights on your crank. I would say a slightly similar effect happens you put in a flywheel. You also get less frictional loss form the knife edges "knifing" through the oil in your oil pan easier.