I bought a honda civic for $200 with a d15b2 and a 5 speed. The car ran but the guy parked it and it would no longer run when he tried to crank it.. since then it has been sitting.

He loosened the timing belt thinking it might have slipped, and we put it back on.. with the UP mark facing up, and the other mark facing up, and then on the bottom with the mark at the arrow.

We then checked for spark.. it had a nice blue spark.. we then checked for fuel and it was getting it inside the cylinder.. so we were pretty sure it'd start if it was the timing.

After fiddling with the distributor in all positions thinking it could be a timing issue, we tried spraying starting fluid into the car.. it will still not crank.

It has fuel.. and spark.. The car didn't smoke when it quit running, and you can hear a nice put through the tailpipe.. I was thinking even if it was low on compression it would still crank with ether and just run like ****.

What else should I try? I'm out of ideas.

Thanks,
Josh


Modified by distortion at 7:21 AM 1/23/2006

 

pop the clutch.... lol

 

I would do that, but all the tires are flat, so it is difficult to roll.. Besides, I very seriously doubt it would crank like that, as it doesn't seem to even be wanting to start.. It spins over, and makes a compression noise.. but no actual firing of any cylinders.. even if you just hold it down to crank for 3-4 seconds.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

 

I got a pm about it being the main fuel relay and will be giving this a try.. I will keep you guys updated. Any other suggestions of things I can try if I'm going to make the 40 mile drive out to where my car is sitting?

Thanks,
Josh

 

keep me posted

 

Pulled the relay and all the solder on the board looked great! It actually looked like it had already been replaced.

I'm not sure what else to try.. if the car is getting spark.. and it won't crank with starting fluid then what else could be the problem?

I know that it'll try and crank even without the clutch pedal pushed in.. could that be related at all?

The timing belt again, top 2 pullies straight up, the bottom aligned with the arrow behind the pulley when you remove it.

I've tried turning the distributor in each and every direction and replacing the plugs.. there is a nice blue spark when grounded on something. Plugs are questionable, but look pretty good and if there is a spark it should at least fire I would think.

The car doesn't make the slightest sound like it's going to start.. just a put put put from the engine turning over...

Thanks,
Josh

 

Have you had a timing light on it? Cylinder 1 is on the driver's side (I'm sure you know this already, but just checking). Possibility of plug wires not in the correct order?!

Not your exact motor, but same order:



You messed with timing, are you SURE you're on the right marks? Get a manual or do a search here to confirm. Even a haynes manual will have this information ($15).

Perhaps the mixture isn't quite right (too rich?), maybe a leaky or bad injector, bad pressure regulator?

Could also be some bad electrical connection in the injector circuit?

Most likely something stupid...

 

pull off the bottom of your steering column, and there is a plug that goes into the back of where you put your key in (should be round and white in color). There are 2 screws that are very kinda difficult to get out holding it in. Once you get the screws out youll notice that youll need to pop off this white cover (held in with i think 5-6 little snap clamps). Carefully remove the white cover to get to the contacts inside. Mine were heavily corroded and all I had to do was just clean them really good. A friend of mine said his was worn down to the point of having to add solder to the contacts to get it to catch). But anyhow, do that and put it back together. It got my car starting when i had a problem similar to that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by distortion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The timing belt again, <U>top 2 pullies straight up</U>the bottom aligned with the arrow behind the pulley when you remove it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by distortion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with a <U>d15b2</U> and a 5 speed</TD></TR></TABLE>

what motor did you say you have, you should only have a single top "pully" if you have a d15

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrtoastyjr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what motor did you say you have, you should only have a single top "pully" if you have a d15</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't even see that..wtf

 

The motor says d15b2 on it.. there is a pulley at the bottom that I lined up with an arrow.. a pulley on the left.. the camshaft (head) at the very top, it said UP.. I put the up up.. and a pulley to the right, slightly lower if I recall correctly. Probably just an accessory pulley. There was a mark on it, and I faced it upwards.. and tightened belt.

Good idea's thus far, I'm going thursday to try out what you guys have said.

Thanks,
Josh


Modified by distortion at 2:27 AM 1/25/2006

 

i bought a 1989 Civic DX recently also, had the same problem but i just had bad injectors. So im saving to get it fixed rite now. =D i paid only 150 for mines. and i have to replace the belts. =/

 

Are you getting compression?


(worse comes to worse, I have the same engine available for sale)

 

I considered compression, but the thing doesn't even fire.. and it fired fine before parked.. I have a hard time thinking he parked it, and went to crank it a few weeks later and it didn't fire because all the cylinders lost enough compression to not even fire one time..

I bought another d15b2 and tranny just in case for $46 on ebay.. lol.

Josh

 

Update,

After re-checking the spark it appears to be pretty damn weak.. I'm going to try to find another distributor to try.

Peace
Josh

 

bump cause i'm having the same prob. i just said expletive it and swapped an a6 in my 4dr! by the way i also kept the DPFI manifold and bolted to the a6 cause i'm to lazy to do the MPFI swap.... haven't tried cranking it yet,i'll find out later on today

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97RedCL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull off the bottom of your steering column, and there is a plug that goes into the back of where you put your key in (should be round and white in color). There are 2 screws that are very kinda difficult to get out holding it in. Once you get the screws out youll notice that youll need to pop off this white cover (held in with i think 5-6 little snap clamps). Carefully remove the white cover to get to the contacts inside. Mine were heavily corroded and all I had to do was just clean them really good. A friend of mine said his was worn down to the point of having to add solder to the contacts to get it to catch). But anyhow, do that and put it back together. It got my car starting when i had a problem similar to that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm gon give this a shot also

 

Put some distributor parts in and it fired right up.. don't know exactly what fixed it.. thinking it was just a new rotor button, or the cap, or who knows.. but it's running.

Now.. for this terrible loud whirring noise coming from the timing belt.. I was told that is the tensioner.. any good sources for one?

Thanks,
Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by distortion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now.. for this terrible loud whirring noise coming from the timing belt.. I was told that is the tensioner.. any good sources for one?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check out rockauto.com..And while you have all that **** apart change the timing belt and waterpump also so you wont have to worry about for a long time..