honda accord 1993 EX
Hi all,
I have a 1993 honda accord EX with 155K, Automatic.
While driving it, it stops taking any gas. I push gas pedal to give it more gas, nothing happen. All the sudden, it gets back to norma.
Any IDEA on what is going on?
Thanks
I have a 1993 honda accord EX with 155K, Automatic.
While driving it, it stops taking any gas. I push gas pedal to give it more gas, nothing happen. All the sudden, it gets back to norma.
Any IDEA on what is going on?
Thanks
Ignition Switch
Master Relay (Fuel Pump Power feed)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump wiring.
Does it set a code?
Service Engine lamp come on?
Everything shut off/turn on?
P
Master Relay (Fuel Pump Power feed)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump wiring.
Does it set a code?
Service Engine lamp come on?
Everything shut off/turn on?
P
It failed the AIM test. When it hesitates, I feel the exaust under the seat is bouncing and shaking hard. I was wondering it is the catalytic converter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jojo69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just changed the spark plugs, I noticed on one of them some fuel. just a little. Any idea how to check that cylinder?
thank you all</TD></TR></TABLE>
compression check would tell you if you have a dead cylinder.
might wanna try doing a tune up too. ive seen bad distributors doing what your describing so check that it looks ok when you have the cap/rotor off.
thank you all</TD></TR></TABLE>
compression check would tell you if you have a dead cylinder.
might wanna try doing a tune up too. ive seen bad distributors doing what your describing so check that it looks ok when you have the cap/rotor off.
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Fuel on a spark plug insulator is usually indicative of no ignition to that cylinder. (Fuel isn't burning off) There are several ways to go about testing things. Some intuitive, some needing test tools (VOmeter)
Start with the distributor cap.
Look for anything that looks like someone drew a pencil line across either the inside or outside of the cap. Find any?, ****-can the cap and install a new one.
Continue to the Ignition wires.
* Start the car and let it fully warm up, running smoothly. Take a spritz bottle and lightly spray the ignition wires their complete length. If the engine starts skipping (running rough) ****-can the wires and install new ones. OR
* Disconnect the wire to the one cylinder w/gas on the plug ALONG WITH the one just next to it. Measure the total resistance of the known good wire (with a Volt-Ohm Meter) and compare it to the one going to the bogus cylinder. The values should be very close. If not, ****-can the wires and install new ones.
Finish with the Spark plug.
The electrode should not have a polished brown look to it (Glazed) and should be properly gapped. Inspect the porcelain insulator for cracks.
That should get you started.
P
Start with the distributor cap.
Look for anything that looks like someone drew a pencil line across either the inside or outside of the cap. Find any?, ****-can the cap and install a new one.
Continue to the Ignition wires.
* Start the car and let it fully warm up, running smoothly. Take a spritz bottle and lightly spray the ignition wires their complete length. If the engine starts skipping (running rough) ****-can the wires and install new ones. OR
* Disconnect the wire to the one cylinder w/gas on the plug ALONG WITH the one just next to it. Measure the total resistance of the known good wire (with a Volt-Ohm Meter) and compare it to the one going to the bogus cylinder. The values should be very close. If not, ****-can the wires and install new ones.
Finish with the Spark plug.
The electrode should not have a polished brown look to it (Glazed) and should be properly gapped. Inspect the porcelain insulator for cracks.
That should get you started.
P
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