Here we go....I have just recentaly changed out my front rotors to PowerSlots, and i went with the Hawk Performance ceramic pads...made a hello difference. its been about 2 months tops and the driverside started to squeal...took it all apart to check the pads..the outside pad hasn't worn, that i can tell, the inside one is worn to hell , down to the squealler

I'm going to check the passenger side shortly just to see what it looks like...but my question is why would one pad wear like that and how to fix it so I'm not buying 25 pads a year.

Yes i did the break in period.. and no i don't drive my car like an ahole...i have a 95 DX coupe

thanks - Pat

 

What PP are you running? Stock?

Ive heard of cases where the prop will go bad and send more fluid to one brake then all the others. Only heard this once but it could be your case.

 

i thought that Prop valves were only on cars with ABS..and that it only regulates the hydraulic press to the rear brakes under heavy braking....

but i'll look anyway cause that could be the problem...going to check the pass side right now

 

so i took a look at the pass. side and both the inside and outside pads are good...

Soooo.. I'm stuck, one pad (inside driver side pad) is worn all to hell, inside of the rotor is worn in about a 16th of an inch, and everywhere else is like new

any help would be appreciated

 

There is a locking pin to the caliper that get stuck sometimes it's like 3 bucks.
Just happend to me like 2 weeks ago.

 

K i've been looking in my Haynes manual at the exploded view of the caliper and i'm not seeing any "locking pin" so if anyone could tell me where this is or if it's called something else...

 

Okay so check this out. I hope this helps.
Usally 99% of the time these pins tend to stick causing the caliper to have abnormal fuctionalty.
Try this. If this does not solve it you usally have a bad caliper.
Good luck Hope you like my little commentary and diag.


Modified by q45mm at 2:03 PM 1/19/2006


Modified by q45mm at 2:03 PM 1/19/2006

 

yeah it sounds like its hung up. take apart the caliper. those pins just pull out, make sure they are clean and becareful not to tear the rubber boot when doing all of this.

as long as the caliper moves freely prior to assembly you should be good there.

 

You can just replace the whole caliper too if you want. I had one seize up on me a few months back and it was about 60 bucks after the core. Just another option for you.

 

Pin A and Pin B have a tendancy to get corroded and size the caliper. This makes it so that it doesn't return to 'rest' position, and always applies pressure to the pad, wearing it down.

You can get a caliper rebuild kit for around $5 that comes with all the replaceable hardware that you will need. Use some good high-temp bearing grease on those pins when you rebuild as welll.

 

could also be that the piston in the caliper is seizing up. When you pushed the piston back in for the new pads did it go in freely?

 

iv never needed to replace the pin, remove it wire wheel it clean the hole it goes in and reassemble it all with grease. this is why they call it a floating caliper. after you let go of the pedal the caliper should float back from the rotor, rust or dirt will inhibit this process.. a much over looked step when doing pads. the pic above is perfect, good job