Help with which hoses to remove when removing Power Steering.
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From: Where the beer flows like wine, CO, USA
Help with which hoses to remove when removing Power Steering.
I am in the process of removing my power steering and I am doing the method of looping the lines and going to a breather, anyways, I got the one hose off ( the red arrow) but I am not sure of which one I need to remove and how to remove for that matter. From the threads I have read, it looks like the one with the green arrow needs to be removed, but I just want to make sure, also how do I remove it, because I can seem to get a wrench to get it off, and it looks kind of small for the fitting that I have for it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Modified by BB6-213 at 5:02 PM 1/18/2006
Modified by BB6-213 at 5:02 PM 1/18/2006
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: Help with which hoses to remove when removing Power Steering. (BB6-213)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am in the process of removing my power steering and I am doing the method of looping the lines and going to a breather, anyways, I got the one hose off ( the red arrow) but I am not sure of which one I need to remove and how to remove for that matter. From the threads I have read, it looks like the one with the green arrow needs to be removed, but I just want to make sure, also how do I remove it, because I can seem to get a wrench to get it off, and it looks kind of small for the fitting that I have for it. Any help is greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have a picture to go with this????
Did you have a picture to go with this????
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 25
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From: Swindon, Wiltshire, England
Re: Help with which hoses to remove when removing Power Steering. (BB6-213)
I've been running my JDM BB4 for over a year and a half and circa 20-25,000 miles with no probs at all. The car is used for daily drive to and from work and is also used for many circuit trackdays.
I have a picture gallery / write up for the removal of the system here if you think it might be of some help to you.
http://buzzinvtec.fotopic.net/c228802.html
Each pic has a written description..just click the thumbnails.
HTH
I have a picture gallery / write up for the removal of the system here if you think it might be of some help to you.
http://buzzinvtec.fotopic.net/c228802.html
Each pic has a written description..just click the thumbnails.
HTH
Thread Starter
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From: Where the beer flows like wine, CO, USA
Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now im in the process of figuring out how to make it a full "manual" rack, so you would be able to plug the holes and fill it through the pressure sensor hole...
i will post up when its all done</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be AWESOME!!
i will post up when its all done</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be AWESOME!!
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From: DFW Area, TX
Re: (BB6-213)
I converted the rack to manual on my track car a year ago.
The valve body can be removed from the "input shaft" and you can remove all the associated seals. Also remove the o-ring on the center piston that's machined into the rack itself. At that point, the rack is manual.
You need a special tool to remove the center seal according to the Helm's, but I was able to remove the center seal with a 3/8" extension. The center ring got bent, but it's included in the seal kit, so it's no big deal.
Once everything is disassembled and cleaned, just reassemble sans the center piston o-ring and the valve body. The input shaft rides on bearings, so the valve body doesn't give it any support. Once that's done, just block off the 4 hard line fittings in the rack. I cut the ends of the hard lines off and plugged the fittings with some aluminum plugs I machined. I used Red Line CV grease on the inside of the rack, and it has worked flawlessly.
The valve body can be removed from the "input shaft" and you can remove all the associated seals. Also remove the o-ring on the center piston that's machined into the rack itself. At that point, the rack is manual.
You need a special tool to remove the center seal according to the Helm's, but I was able to remove the center seal with a 3/8" extension. The center ring got bent, but it's included in the seal kit, so it's no big deal.
Once everything is disassembled and cleaned, just reassemble sans the center piston o-ring and the valve body. The input shaft rides on bearings, so the valve body doesn't give it any support. Once that's done, just block off the 4 hard line fittings in the rack. I cut the ends of the hard lines off and plugged the fittings with some aluminum plugs I machined. I used Red Line CV grease on the inside of the rack, and it has worked flawlessly.
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From: ow my knee, CA
Re: (mgags7)
some people just don't get it...
imo, power steering tends to like to overcompensate while you're entering corners...some people just prefer the feel of not having powersteering while driving...besides, it's not even that bad past 10 mph
imo, power steering tends to like to overcompensate while you're entering corners...some people just prefer the feel of not having powersteering while driving...besides, it's not even that bad past 10 mph
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its not at all....once youre moving, you barely even know it....i just took the belt off...and have been driving like that for over a month to decide whether i wanted to make it permanent...and i now do....
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From: Houston, TX, USA
Re: (mgags7)
The car has much better road feel with the PS off. You can feel everything the tires are doing. Like everyone has said, over 10 mph its not a big deal. Under 10 you just pull forward a little bit and the weight comes off the front tires, and it is just as easy. After a week you don't really even notice. 
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From: Where the beer flows like wine, CO, USA
Re: (kevinm1981)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevinm1981 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why the hell would you remove the best power option?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Needed to remove it for the turbo.
Needed to remove it for the turbo.
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Re: (mgags7)
Well my car was obd1 and it didn't throw a code... But I doubt it will throw a code on an obd2 car... The power steering sensor is super important and isn't emission related, so I don't see it being a problem...
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From: NH
Re: (Sam1am26)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well my car was obd1 and it didn't throw a code... But I doubt it will throw a code on an obd2 car... The power steering sensor is super important and isn't emission related, so I don't see it being a problem...</TD></TR></TABLE>
just to clarify, you meant to say that "the power steering sensor isn't super important, right?
just to clarify, you meant to say that "the power steering sensor isn't super important, right?
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From: NH
Re: (Sam1am26)
a question for those that have already tried this mod:
If low speed effort required with stock power steering is a 1,
And if low speed effort with just the ps belt removed is a 10,
What would you rate the effort required with the ps fluid drained and the lines looped/vented?
Thanks!
If low speed effort required with stock power steering is a 1,
And if low speed effort with just the ps belt removed is a 10,
What would you rate the effort required with the ps fluid drained and the lines looped/vented?
Thanks!
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i have heard it was about a 7....but here is what i plan to do...
take the airbag off and get out my torque wrench....put the ps belt on, and see how hard it is to turn the wheel, trial and error with the torque wrech to see how many ft/lbs it takes
then i will take the belt off and see how many
then i will drain all the fluid, forget looping the lines, it will only be open for a second, measure the torque
then i will get inside the rack and take out all the seals and stuff to make it a true manual rack, then i will do the same
then i can set up a porportion and get it all on a 1-10 scale of difficulty...
as you can see i have devoted entirely too much thought to this....
-matt
take the airbag off and get out my torque wrench....put the ps belt on, and see how hard it is to turn the wheel, trial and error with the torque wrech to see how many ft/lbs it takes
then i will take the belt off and see how many
then i will drain all the fluid, forget looping the lines, it will only be open for a second, measure the torque
then i will get inside the rack and take out all the seals and stuff to make it a true manual rack, then i will do the same
then i can set up a porportion and get it all on a 1-10 scale of difficulty...
as you can see i have devoted entirely too much thought to this....
-matt
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: NH
Re: (mgags7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as you can see i have devoted entirely too much thought to this....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im curious to see how this turns out! Im sure lots of other people are too. . .keep us updated
as you can see i have devoted entirely too much thought to this....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im curious to see how this turns out! Im sure lots of other people are too. . .keep us updated
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 524
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From: Houston, TX, USA
Re: (117)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I converted the rack to manual on my track car a year ago.
The valve body can be removed from the "input shaft" and you can remove all the associated seals. Also remove the o-ring on the center piston that's machined into the rack itself. At that point, the rack is manual.
You need a special tool to remove the center seal according to the Helm's, but I was able to remove the center seal with a 3/8" extension. The center ring got bent, but it's included in the seal kit, so it's no big deal.
Once everything is disassembled and cleaned, just reassemble sans the center piston o-ring and the valve body. The input shaft rides on bearings, so the valve body doesn't give it any support. Once that's done, just block off the 4 hard line fittings in the rack. I cut the ends of the hard lines off and plugged the fittings with some aluminum plugs I machined. I used Red Line CV grease on the inside of the rack, and it has worked flawlessly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 4th gen's rack is a little more complicated than the 5th gen's rack. What did you remove in the picture below?
5th gen:
4th gen guys, has anyone done this?
If so what did you remove?
4th gen:
I ripped out all the PS stuff about a year ago, but haven't had a chance to convert the rack yet. (It has been sitting for over a year) I am going to try and convert it this weekend because it is time to drive it So I want to have a plan before I start ripping stuff out
The valve body can be removed from the "input shaft" and you can remove all the associated seals. Also remove the o-ring on the center piston that's machined into the rack itself. At that point, the rack is manual.
You need a special tool to remove the center seal according to the Helm's, but I was able to remove the center seal with a 3/8" extension. The center ring got bent, but it's included in the seal kit, so it's no big deal.
Once everything is disassembled and cleaned, just reassemble sans the center piston o-ring and the valve body. The input shaft rides on bearings, so the valve body doesn't give it any support. Once that's done, just block off the 4 hard line fittings in the rack. I cut the ends of the hard lines off and plugged the fittings with some aluminum plugs I machined. I used Red Line CV grease on the inside of the rack, and it has worked flawlessly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 4th gen's rack is a little more complicated than the 5th gen's rack. What did you remove in the picture below?
5th gen:
4th gen guys, has anyone done this?
If so what did you remove?
4th gen:
I ripped out all the PS stuff about a year ago, but haven't had a chance to convert the rack yet. (It has been sitting for over a year) I am going to try and convert it this weekend because it is time to drive it
So I want to have a plan before I start ripping stuff out 