97 Type SH Road Racing Performance...
What up guys. I just aquired my 97 Prelude Type SH, and I want to get into road racing. I used to have a GSR, and I liked that, but I would like to know what some of your experiences with the Prelude SH on road courses were like and maybe what mods you have done. The Prelude feels quite a bit heavier, but I hear that the ATTS is supposed to help pull you through that. Let me know what you think an SH can do on a road course and the best first mods to make it perform better. Thanks in advance.
The Prelude will do just fine. If you are really concerned, worry about your driving skill first, then how the car performs, because the Prelude does just fine on the track, even stock....seriously!
So you dont think the prelude is a little too heavy and the H22 can stand revving a lot? Some of these questions may seem stupid, but like it says, im a newb. Basically, Im looking for reason and determination to keep and mod the prelude rather than selling it in order to get another GSR.
Maintainence is key for the life of any engine, keep an eye on your oil pressure, water temp, oil temp. Comp/Leakdown test.
In my manual under Testing without codes it says
Lack or power- Cause= Check Vtec system
So the engineers expect you to be above 5000rpm for some time, just dont be a tard about it and rape your engine.
Treat it kind and it will be good to you.
In my manual under Testing without codes it says
Lack or power- Cause= Check Vtec system
So the engineers expect you to be above 5000rpm for some time, just dont be a tard about it and rape your engine.
Treat it kind and it will be good to you.
Thanks. Yea I plan on maintaining the hell out of it, as with any of my previous cars. This one has a **** ton of miles on it right now though (210k to be exact), so I am looking into getting it rebuilt. If any of you guys know, then please let me know what I should go with or which parts you think I should use to accomplish running around 210-220 WHP. Thanks.
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what u really need to do is to c what class u r in before u got throwing mods at your car and get put in a class that is going to smoke your ***, look at what u r going up against at shock and c if u can do some mods and still be in the same class, i know in the class im looking into which is stock the only thing u can have is a catback exhaust, no cold air intake or anything, so first check the rules
Yea thanks. Im not that much of a newb though. Like I said, I used to race my GSR, then My S14 240SX before I got this car, so im not a complete novice, but for the most part i guess im still a newb to preludes.
I think first he should let me drive it and see how it rolls. I am driving a civic hatch now, and could give him the low down on its handling. He knows where i live so just bring it over and let me take it out. We dont want a repeat of the integra incident. Note to everyone this noob is a friend of mine, and I told him to ask honda tech.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
the key to getting a bb6 to handle well on track is a) getting enough rubber under the car, b) getting rid of understeer.
there are a few road-raced preludes out there, and they all share a few things:
1) stiff springs and appropriate shocks. GC's with 400, 500, 600, 800+ lb springs and koni yellows (OTS or revalved), koni 3011's or 2812's, or a few guys on tein suspensions.
2) big rear sway bar. 27mm solid. progress is the best mass produced choice, though a few guys have gone custom and have setup some 32mm hollow bars.
3) lots of negative camber up front. -2.5 or more.
4) as much tire as you can get under the car w/o clearance issues. for me, that was 235/40/17 r-comps on 17x8 wheels.
5) weight reduction. how much is up to you.
there are a few road-raced preludes out there, and they all share a few things:
1) stiff springs and appropriate shocks. GC's with 400, 500, 600, 800+ lb springs and koni yellows (OTS or revalved), koni 3011's or 2812's, or a few guys on tein suspensions.
2) big rear sway bar. 27mm solid. progress is the best mass produced choice, though a few guys have gone custom and have setup some 32mm hollow bars.
3) lots of negative camber up front. -2.5 or more.
4) as much tire as you can get under the car w/o clearance issues. for me, that was 235/40/17 r-comps on 17x8 wheels.
5) weight reduction. how much is up to you.
Dude, you're going to love the Lude. The last time I took her to an autocross was in November. The closest one to her was 6 seconds behind. I put street tires on her...azenis rt615s, skunk2 springs, koni yellows, and she was mean.
But definitely work on her weight issue....
But definitely work on her weight issue....
Thanks. Those were the kind of responses I was looking for. Also, You guys think I would be better off going with the Koni's or some adjustable coilovers like TEIN or JIC if I can come up with the cash? And about the weight reduction, what could I take out besides the rear seats/rear interior pieces? And How much does the ATTS weigh me down? Should I try and get a non ATTS tranny or is it really beneficial on the track? Thanks a mill.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_Owns »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. Those were the kind of responses I was looking for. Also, You guys think I would be better off going with the Koni's or some adjustable coilovers like TEIN or JIC if I can come up with the cash? And about the weight reduction, what could I take out besides the rear seats/rear interior pieces? And How much does the ATTS weigh me down? Should I try and get a non ATTS tranny or is it really beneficial on the track? Thanks a mill.</TD></TR></TABLE>
koni/gc>jdm coilovers.
a good place to start with weight reduction is: lightweight battery (hawker genesis G16), CF hood, lightweight rims, aftermarket exhaust, lightweight bucket seats.
that's a good 150-200 lbs right there.
koni/gc>jdm coilovers.
a good place to start with weight reduction is: lightweight battery (hawker genesis G16), CF hood, lightweight rims, aftermarket exhaust, lightweight bucket seats.
that's a good 150-200 lbs right there.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_Owns »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying the Koni's with good springs are better than some adjustable coilovers? How is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
because jdm "full coilovers" are nothing more than than a damper, a threaded sleeve, and a spring. Koni and GC's are: a damper, threaded sleeve, and a spring.
on a component vs. component basis, i'll take konis over any of the dampers used in JDM suspensions, or any other "performance shock" not named moton, ohlins, or penske. Ground Control Sleeves have proven their reliability and durability time and time again, and their threaded sleeves are as good as anything on Tein or JIC or endless's parts. and Eibach ERS springs are the best racing springs in the world (arguably since some will say that hypercoil is better. for me it's a toss up.)
i hate to sound like a brochure, but i believe in this combination w/ my heart and soul. I'm not on their payrolls, but a very satisfied customer, and the guys at koni have always gone out of their way to give me great customer service. Not to mention the warranties on all of these items, as well as the serviceability and most of all the PERFORMANCE of this setup. (go to the suspension forum and look at the shock dyno sticky)
because jdm "full coilovers" are nothing more than than a damper, a threaded sleeve, and a spring. Koni and GC's are: a damper, threaded sleeve, and a spring.
on a component vs. component basis, i'll take konis over any of the dampers used in JDM suspensions, or any other "performance shock" not named moton, ohlins, or penske. Ground Control Sleeves have proven their reliability and durability time and time again, and their threaded sleeves are as good as anything on Tein or JIC or endless's parts. and Eibach ERS springs are the best racing springs in the world (arguably since some will say that hypercoil is better. for me it's a toss up.)
i hate to sound like a brochure, but i believe in this combination w/ my heart and soul. I'm not on their payrolls, but a very satisfied customer, and the guys at koni have always gone out of their way to give me great customer service. Not to mention the warranties on all of these items, as well as the serviceability and most of all the PERFORMANCE of this setup. (go to the suspension forum and look at the shock dyno sticky)
Dude, don't listen to all this modding BS right now. Just get the car on the track AS IT IS (changing oil and coolant of course) and see how it handles.
I took my BONE STOCK 92 Si 4WS on the track with the 160K+ mile engine AND suspension and the car did great.
So many people are quick to mod the car even before getting to know the car as it is.
I took my BONE STOCK 92 Si 4WS on the track with the 160K+ mile engine AND suspension and the car did great.
So many people are quick to mod the car even before getting to know the car as it is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2) big rear sway bar. 27mm solid. progress is the best mass produced choice, though a few guys have gone custom and have setup some 32mm hollow bars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about 32mm SOLID bar!!!
How about 32mm SOLID bar!!!
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vwong »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about 32mm SOLID bar!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jesus, how much does that thing weigh?!?!
i bet you could get the car to rotate by just thinking about lifting.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Jesus, how much does that thing weigh?!?!
i bet you could get the car to rotate by just thinking about lifting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Jesus, how much does that thing weigh?!?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
A ton!!! Seriously, I don't know but it's heavy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bet you could get the car to rotate by just thinking about lifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car will rotate with cold tires (as in the Star Mazda turn at Buttonwillow last weekend). However, once the tires got warm, the car was quite balanced. At the Talladega turn, I thought the car would be tail happy. But after several laps, I was going full throttle at 90+mph and the car just stuck to the groud.
Jesus, how much does that thing weigh?!?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
A ton!!! Seriously, I don't know but it's heavy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bet you could get the car to rotate by just thinking about lifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car will rotate with cold tires (as in the Star Mazda turn at Buttonwillow last weekend). However, once the tires got warm, the car was quite balanced. At the Talladega turn, I thought the car would be tail happy. But after several laps, I was going full throttle at 90+mph and the car just stuck to the groud.
Thanks. I think I will get on the track as soon as winter is over and see how it feels, and in the meantime, save for some mods. Any other comments on the handling and mods are definatly welcome also. By the way, who makes 27mm sway bars for the SH? And I saw some Koni yellows for the 5th gen prelude, but they were for NON SH. Do they make them for the SH too, or will the NON SH ones bolt up the same?


