i cleaned the IAC valve and my cars rpms still jump up and down. i know i dont have any vaccum leaks. like when i turn it on it tachs at like 3k and then i give it a little gas, and then the idle drops down to like 1500 and it goes up to 2500 and its killing my gas. Especially when i stop at a red light and it does it ::shoots him self:: any ideas? i've read many threads and do not know what eles to do.

Specs are below.

 

Have you checked out the FITV?

 

what is it? where its located?

 

The seat on the fast idle valve will back out and cause the idle problem. Usually you can thread in back in until it bottoms out, then back it out 1 1/2- 2 turns.

 

Are you refering to the Fast Idle Thermo Valve?

also Could the PCV valve have anything to do with this ?

 

my pcv valve and hose were skrewed up and it caused the same issue.

try replacing that.


as for the FITV. on the driver side of the TB, right under the throttle cable there is a metal cap that has 2 phillips head skrews, unskrew those, take off cap, there is a yellow waxy thing there, take a flat head and CAREFULLY skrew it down SNUG not tight.

 

First i will try to clean out the PCV VAlve and hose, and start the car and if it still does it. i will take out the other thing the FITV and see whats going on there and i will update tomorrow after i get out of Classes.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93cb7sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my pcv valve and hose were skrewed up and it caused the same issue.

try replacing that.


as for the FITV. on the driver side of the TB, right under the throttle cable there is a metal cap that has 2 phillips head skrews, unskrew those, take off cap, there is a yellow waxy thing there, take a flat head and CAREFULLY skrew it down SNUG not tight.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

If I remember right, the manual for 4th gen said air should go through the Fast Idle Valve until the engine warms up, then it should stop. Good Luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I remember right, the manual for 4th gen said air should go through the Fast Idle Valve until the engine warms up, then it should stop. Good Luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it is coolant activated. there is a thermowax plunger inside the FITV, when its cold (coolant cold) the wax contracts allowing more air to bypass the TB. when the coolant gets warm it expands and cuts off air flow

 

well i clean my iac valve, i purchased a new pcv valve from Martin Honda for 23$ and still the same prob i dont have a vac leak and i dont know what yall talking about the FITV i got a 5th gen so it might be located somewhere eles anyone feel like pointing it out? f22b2

 

you need to take that little plate thing off on the bottom of your throttle body and tighten the plastic ring w/ a big flat tipped screw driver..

sorry this is impossible to explain

 

I can't even tell you if the 5th gen has one, for sure. All I can tell you is that on the 4th gen it was between the brake master cylinder and the intake (closer to intake) should be connected to the intake. I can hardly remember, but I think it was like a pipe comming up with a flat gold colored plate on top of it, with two phillips head screws holding it down. Don't imagine this would be the answer you're looking for. But I hope it helps. It may be #14 in this link, but I'm not sure.


http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+BODY


Modified by BLKFLSH at 9:43 PM 1/19/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordisslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and i dont know what yall talking about the FITV...</TD></TR></TABLE>The FITV is #14 & this shows that plate opened up.

 

It WoRks It Works! after one broken screw and alot of scratches lol it works it work it not longer idles horribly now it stayss at 1k? is that right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordisslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... now it stayss at 1k? is that right?</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe a little high, but that could be an inaccurate tachometer.

Search for 'base idle' for settings. It usually goes something like this...
Warm up completely, turn off all electrical loads.
Unplug electrical connection from IACV.
Jumper SCS connector.
Adjust idle screw (#1) for 500(??)rpm; or whatever is called for your year/model.
Shut off, plug IACV back in, reset ECU.
Start & idle for 10(?) minutes without touching throttle at all.

 

This is probably not it, but check your coolant level.

 

well temp was like 57 and it was tacking at 1k when i started it and after 10 min it went down to like 750? i was like wow its soo quiet i got an exhaust and erything and i couldnt hear it. lol

 

That's just wonderful. Glad you got it.

 

So it was the FITV?

 

Yes. He said it worked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2L &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it was the FITV?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it was the FITV, and it was a bitch to get off too lol

 

I have the same problem. I got a check engine light on,the mechanic at a local shop said it is the Idle Control Valve. When i start the car up in "Park" the idle jumps up and down but once its in "Drive" it idles around 1K. If i do what he just did will mines stop also??....if yeh can i get some details on how to do it.

Thanks

 

Read this thread from the beginning. We are not ready to go through it all again.

 

Alright let me explain it to you the iac valve and the FITV are two different things

altho they both can cause the same problem.

to removing the IAC valve:


it is located behind the throttle body there the IAC valve with he black cylinder on

there.



There are two bolts directly behind it that you will need to take out in

order to remove the iac valve if you had the same problem as i did with firs of all

there not being enough clearance trying to get a ratchet in there because of two

screw that are sticking out from the

fire wall just bang then out the way (bend them but dont break them) if i recall its

a 10mm socket you will need or a 12 pretty sure its a 10. anyways once you have

removed the 3 bolts that hold the IAC valve in place you will need to loosen both

hoses that are back there. underneath the IAC Valve. Once you have all that out

the way, get something to clean it with, i used brake clean you can use somehting

similar to that. You will see two little holes one with a mesh screen. and another

with no screen what u want to do is just spray the brake clean on there untill the

screen is silver again you might need to use a cloth and a finger to kinda clean the

mesh on it. it will take approx about 10 min to clean and dont be afraid to let the

brake cleaner get into the IAC valve just spray it as much as possible and shake it

off so all the black residue will come off. here is a link below,

how ever its the same

process but on a 4gen accord (90-93) their IAC valve in located in front of the

throttle body ours is on the back


http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...=IACV


NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO PRY THE MESH FILTER OFF IT WILL NOT COME OFF lol and

make sure the rubber gasket is still on when you replace it.


i am assuming your are doing this on a 4cyl. once the iac valve is clean be sure to

use a clothe and clean where the IAC valve was detached. inside the little holes

especially on the side where the mesh side was you can even spray some in there

and try to whipe it down if you have a stubby screw driver you can wrap the cloth

around it and just clean inside of it, or you can even use qtips make sure the

cotton part is not stuck inside tho. try to get all that as clean as possible.


You also might want to take off the air intake hose that connect to the throttle

body and use the same rag to clean inside the throttle body, you can use throttle

body cleaner but brake cleaner works just as well. Clean inside the butterfly flaps


Once you start to put everything together do not over tighten it or you will regret it

just make sure its snug and it would be a good idea to spray some WD40 on the

Bolts. remeber to put the two hoses where they came from and do not swap them

around. once everything is put together once you start the car you'll hear a loud

spark but thats because of the cleaner being there. it normal and then your car will

no longer idle if that solves it. if it still surges while idle then you might want to

look into the FIT valve and i will explain the process as well lol


i tried to space things out so they can be easier to read lol

PS. the neuspeed strut bar is a great help when leaning over engine bay and holding on to it lol



Modified by accordisslow at 11:35 PM 1/21/2006

 

Hey man Thanks alot for that info!! really appreciate the help!!...however i did clean the IAC but the idle problem still occurs maybe its the FIT valve now.