A couple months back I posted that I was running at the track and i shifted from 3rd at 7500RPM into 2nd....took the tach off the map of course i pulled it out of gear quick but obviously not quick enough. Everyone one told me prolly bent valves well i did a compression test and a leakdown test and here are the results
Leak down test: Compression test: Compression test 1 month b4 this happend:
Cyl#1- 90%(dead)......Cyl#1- 200..........Cyl#1- 240
Cyl#2- 24%...............Cyl#2- 225..........Cyl#2- 245
Cyl#3- 34%...............Cyl#3- 220..........Cyl#3- 250
Cyl#4- 42%...............Cyl#4- 220..........Cyl#4- 255
so now i have the motor out of my car and i don't know what to do cause the compression test didn't show much of a drop, which makes my friend beleive that it's not in the head and it's in the bottom end..... i need some help here guys what do you all think it is? OH one last thing i do have the head off and we looked at the pistons and cylinder walls no scars and no marks on the pistons.....

 

well the head is off anyway, its only going to cost you around 140 bucks for a good machine shop to check it for straightness, pressure test it, replace the valveseals, and inspect all the valves and all valvetrain components. If you have bent valves, they will find them

 

In the leakdown test, where was it leaking? That will tell you where the problem is. If the engine has not been run since the incident, you can pull off the manifolds and maybe see evidence of contact by looking in the ports, etc.

 

I wouldnt worry about the block its most likely just the head. I bought a set of Ferrea valves off ebay a few weeks ago for $200 I could even sell you my old stock ones if you wanted to go that route, dirt cheap just let me know what you need.

Also after you got the head redone and back on you could leak it down again without actually dropping it back in the car to see if that fixed the prob.

 

yeah but i don't feel like wasting money on have all my motor tore down to see whats wrong when that money could be going towards the rebuild.....

 

When you remove a head its recommended that you replace the valveseals. If you didnt remove it in the proper sequence in 3 steps, you could have warped it. Eaither way you look at it, you need to take the head to a machine shop and have it checked and cleaned up. You over-reved. What happens when people over-rev or money shift it ? valves bend or break. You are lucky they didnt snap off at the seat and completly distroy the head and block. The information is out there. If you want to go rebuild the bottom end for no reason only to put it back together to find out the head is STILL fuct because you didnt have it looked at, then go for it.

Next up on you list should be this: Head gasket, Cam seals, IM gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, make sure you didnt tear an o ring on the oil passages when removing the cam caps, gonna need some hondabond, check the T belt and auto tensioner and replace if necessary, may as well check the water pump if the car hasnt been serviced, still need the head checked.

a fresh head > buying some used POS that you have no idea of its history or how it was removed. It would still need to be checked by a professional. You cant get around it.

 

yeha i but im talking about the whole motor being built not just the bottom so im saying that would fix any problem in the motor right.....
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings(12 : 1 comp)
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly $3,300

Head:
Port and polish
SuperTech SS valves
dual springs
titanium retainers
valve job and surface $1,500
ARP Headstuds Own
Cam's i havn't decide on which ones...