I got my car in April 2004 in college. I used to make sure I got my oil changed on time, but I remember many times when I neglected my baby and she would wait sometimes 6k or so miles for me to change her oil. I have a good job now and make decent $$ so I was hoping there is a way to open the engine up and clean out all the neglect (gunk, burnt oil) whatever out of the engine so I can kinda start over.

My can has 160k on the odometer and I want her to last at least another 100k. What can I do or have my Honda guy do to my car to "renew" the internal parts of the engine? Would I have to get a rebuild? I got the Valvoline Engine flush service for $15 last time I was there it was a clear fluid they say makes all that buildup "drop" out the bottom of the engine but I have my doubts as to its effectiveness- my Honda needs something a little more serious I think.

 

Does Honda have an engine flush fluid/ process and if there's any techs in here can you tell me what it is?

 

Products like Valvoline Engine Flush and Rislone have been on the market for quite some time, and surprisingly, do work. Adding a supplement detergent package with the next several oil changes will pretty much bring it up to snuff.
The most critical place that would be addressed, if you feel you're dealing with heavy sludge deposits, would be the oil pan. It has been the subject of several threads of late with regards to oil starvation/ sludge build up.
It's relatively simple to remove (drop the exhaust to gain access) and would be easy to scrape clean once removed.
A quick test for sludge build-up? Pull off the oil filler cap and look down thru the hole at the top of the Cylinder Head. If it's the color of gold anodized aluminum; you're ok. If it's covered with a brown/black toothpaste-like substance - "you got sludge" (apologies to AOL)
Once you get that all sorted out, anticipate running a de-carboning agent thru to remove any carbon buildup on the pistons.

P

 

hmm, well first off i saw your whip on car domain and i really like the stock look and it looks like you took really good care of your "baby". Since some of us are forgetful, if you can change your own oil it would save you tons of money and its soo damn simple! if you need a DIY ill post one on my next oil change.

Anyways like i said since we are so forgetful first what you might want to consider is first on you next oil change use Mobile 1 clean pro oil i think thats what its called
and then from there you should continue afterwards continue to use Mobile 1 either 5w-30 or 10w-30 and the oil filter is a 3593A and you will only need 5qts of oil its better to just get the bigger bottle at walmart its like 20-25 for it. when at autozone or pepboys its like 35-40


you dont need and go get your engine cleaned internally just try to keep up with maintance.

the good thine about Mobile 1 is that it doesnt break down as fast as other oils and you can run ir for about 5k or 6k and i think there is another one that you can run up to 15k i would look into it tho.

and under your sig. you want to get an h22 i would say just keep saving and keep up with maintance.

 

P: you know too damn much information! Thanks for the response, I feel better now! Can you give me the name of a good de-carboning agent? I'm getting the valvoline flush every time I get my oil changed until summer time. Can I use both simultaneously??

 

As embarrassing as this is.... please post a DIY on how to do 5th gen oil changes. Thanks so much, I'd change my oil much more frequently this way. It's not so much that I forgot... I was too broke sometimes (UT Knoxville ). Oh, thanks for the comments in my guestbook, I thought nobody ever noticed Jolly Green Jessica on cardomain anymore!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordisslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and under your sig. you want to get an h22 i would say just keep saving and keep up with aintance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I could but my tranny is slipping as we speak (my second!) and I gotta get that done. I need to practice on someone's 5 spd. We have some steepness in downtown memphis and i don't want my h22'd acccord rolling backwards into anyone's car (or the trolley line )

 

Sea Foam seems to be a product of choice around here.
GM also markets a Decarboning Agent which I used for years, thru their line of consumer chemicals. (their "Opti-clean" concentrated windshield washer solvent is the best I've seen).

Hey, As a former student myself; I well understand the costs of going to "U of Anywhere". ^%&$#, for what I spent on R&B, Tuition, Books & Babes - I could have purchased a Honda Dealership, let alone their cars. (even if that was in 1970's money)

P

 

changing the oil every 6K on a 5th gen is pushing it but it should still be OK. All an engine flush is kerosene and some additives added to the oil and the car run for about 15 mins at idle to clean up and dissolve the sludge. Then change oil and filter and you are good to go.

Adding a quart of ATF to your engine oil and driving it for a few hundred miles before you change the engine oil does the same thing (seafoam is a ATF additive)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">changing the oil every 6K on a 5th gen is pushing it but it should still be OK. All an engine flush is kerosene and some additives added to the oil and the car run for about 15 mins at idle to clean up and dissolve the sludge. Then change oil and filter and you are good to go.

Adding a quart of ATF to your engine oil and driving it for a few hundred miles before you change the engine oil does the same thing (seafoam is a ATF additive)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I remember them telling me to idle my car for 10 mins while the sludge remover kicks in. I'm going to try this stuff but do you guys know how i can tell if it worked?

 

Well, what might have come out as slightly dirty oil; will exit your pan as black as midnight, and the oil filter will seem to weigh more (it will).
Several things to remember:
1) The longer you allow it to work, the better
2) As long as the Oil Psi Lamp doesn't come on, you can keep on idling.

I'd suggest 15-20 minutes from the time the engine reaches full operating tempurature.

P

 

Thanks a lot P, you're always helpful.