I am not pulling any codes, ECU is P75 just like the motor Chasis is EJ8

I have checked basics, made sure all the connections are tight, no leaks of oil, oil is good, it seems as though its shutting off @ 6K .

THe last thing done was a change of heater core, After that it doesnt seem to wantto rev past this limit. Could it be a termostat maybe a wrong one? I dont know.

 

Does it sound like the rev limiter?

If not it might be your cat breaking up. It happens, although usually it restricts flow at around 3000-4000K. Just a crazy guess.

 

yes its does sound like the rev limiter hits and shuts it down. if i keep my foot on the gas teh RPMs increase slowly, very slowly and the car feels dead at that point. also building up to 6k the car seems want to bog and die out, nust sort of a nice buildup to about 5K then after that boggs then 6K drops. seems odd to me.

 

I believe stock tachs are generally off by quite a bit. I dunno though, just a suggestion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1 ’96 Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes its does sound like the rev limiter hits and shuts it down. if i keep my foot on the gas teh RPMs increase slowly, very slowly and the car feels dead at that point. also building up to 6k the car seems want to bog and die out, nust sort of a nice buildup to about 5K then after that boggs then 6K drops. seems odd to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know, it never hurts to just reset the ecu once in a while. try that.

 

ive done that, reset it by pulling the fuse and by pulling the harness. and while i agree that stock tachs are off sometimes, usually its around 100-200 RPMs not 1.5K+.

plus i know its not revving to where it should becasue it bogs as it hit 4.5Kish. it bogs then falls on its face, never has it done that. i have always had a nice clean rev all the way to the limit, just bugs me becasue getting on teh freeway is hard only being able to rev to 4K a with a GSR trans.

Would it be a vacume issue? i cant hear anything under the hood hissiing or sucking, except the intake. And Like i said the last thing that happened was the Heater Core replacement, can a wrong thermostat have an effect on this?

TIA

 

distributor? Mine once started to hit a premature rev-limiter at like 3500 RPM due to having a bad distributor. Might want to check that.

 

I will have to check on the distributor, this ran through my mind but when i got the dizzy it only had roughly 60K on it. so i didn't think of it, but you never know, the cap and rotor are ok and my plugs look like clean burn is happening.

Has anyone had an issue where maybe the clutch slips and causes this? if i put the car in 5th, 4rth and 3rd it will die when i release the clutch in each gear. so i don't know if its the clutch.

i am lost on this so anything anyone may be able to bring is helpful.

 

not the clutch. If it was you would just redline and not move anywhere.

 

your headgasket is going.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1 ’96 Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and while i agree that stock tachs are off sometimes, usually its around 100-200 RPMs not 1.5K+. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My stock tach is way off. My gsr motor hits the rev limiter at 6600 according to the tach. I have verified that the tach is off by using an external tach. I'm not saying that this is the problem in your case. If the motor is bogging, you probably have other issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wenlyone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your headgasket is going.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to explain? No loss of coolant, no smoke from the exhaust, no loss of oil oil stays clean until about 4500, no bubbles when the cap is off.
not saying that i dont belive you just saying no signs point to that the headgasket, so a clarification on what this statement means would be helpful

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My stock tach is way off. My gsr motor hits the rev limiter at 6600 according to the tach. I have verified that the tach is off by using an external tach. I'm not saying that this is the problem in your case. If the motor is bogging, you probably have other issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree i dont trust stock tachs too much either, but before it went in full redline was not an issue, plus the power was there.

Maybe "BOG" is a bad explanation. its more of a hesitation, what is more hapening is it hit 6K and doesnt want to rev higher, if i pres the clutch in a full rev is fully given to red line, and its fairly a smooth rev. This is why i asked clutch i didnt think about it until i pressed teh clutch in and sure enough the car would go to redline.

 

Could be your tach if you ever pulled the needles but im sure you never did that. when i had that problem i think it was like an automatic ecu or a single cam ecu(switched it up and the problem was solved) or something like that. you should double check make sure its the correct ecu, barrow a homies that is working? jus a suggestion!!!! good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20eg9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be your tach if you ever pulled the needles but im sure you never did that. when i had that problem i think it was like an automatic ecu or a single cam ecu(switched it up and the problem was solved) or something like that. you should double check make sure its the correct ecu, barrow a homies that is working? jus a suggestion!!!! good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>


thank you for the suggestion, i have checked my ecu, i keep a tab on what the last digits are on my ecu. i usually do my own work but i needed to restore the heat in my car. SO when i take it somewhere, Documentations from teh swap comes in handy

So i know its the same ecu, but it could possibley be an ecu issue i am not willing to automatically rule that out. a test ecu would help out.

 

might anyone else have a suggestion?

Tested ECU and not the issue,

My distributor works fine on a friends LS, and his distributor works fine on mine.

Any other ideas?

 

do you have a cat? it could be clogged.

 

yes i do have a cat. The rear O2 is simulated, so no CEL light if it was. hmmmm i never thought CAT issue.

Would a clogged cat allow it to redline without the clutch engaged and stop it from going to redline when the clutch is engaged? I was planning on replacing that thing anyways.

 

My cat got clogged from my car misfiring and was the misfiring ws fixed and the cat was still clogged it ran just fine. so i dont think it is a clogged cat. but it could be if it was clogged enough.

 

what ecu are you running

 

are you running an after market fuel prssure regulator? my bro-n-law had to lower his down and after that his worked fine. his motor made him bogg at 5600 rpm after he switched the pressure, his car ran great.

just a suggestion.

 

no stock FPR. NEver thought of the FPR going. I Thought maybe something Fuel related it just seems like its not getting enough something, fuel maybe it. I will try a new FPR.

ECU is in the first post

P75 Just like the motor

Or OBD2 LS 5-SPD

 

take off the cat and see if it'll rev..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delslo93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">distributor? Mine once started to hit a premature rev-limiter at like 3500 RPM due to having a bad distributor. Might want to check that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


had the same problem on my b16, car would bog then die after 5,000 rpm, i changed the distributor and she's running good now

 

i had this same problem using a p28 ecu on a b20vtec swap it wouldt let me rev past 4500 i swapped it for another ecu p28 na dit works fine so try a friends ecu and see if that worked.

 

hmm...y dont u try checking ur tps. could b the problem. get a voltmeter and check the voltage during closed and full throttle. should b .5 volts during closed and 4.5 during full throttle.