Ok, so recently i decided/planned to upgrade my brake's and i started out taking care of the basics:

-techna-fit stainles steel brake lines (brand new)
-15/16'th 90-93 Master Cylinder+Brake Booster (brand new-dealer)

what i'm having issues is with bleeding my brakes actually, my brakes were never stiff nor completely soggy they were just kinda in the middle/old age, fatigued kinda, thus the decision to upgrading my brake's setup.

After installing the brand new stainless steel brake lines, i proceeded to bleed the brakes on the stock 7/8th EF MC, after numerous attempts, i had expunged all air from the lines and YET my pedal felt soggy...WORSE then before with the old rubber lines/hoses. My pedals reached the floor without any trouble.

At this stage i moved on the upgrading my MC to the 90-93 teg MC+brake booster, both brand new from the dealer. After replacing the MC and the booster i blead the brakes again. And YET again, i have the soggiest/mushiest to the flood pedal response, and i have no air bubbles being released anymore.

Now, i have read and memorized the bleed patters, i know how to properly bleed brakes manually, and i invested in a vaccum pump as well, so there is no error on my behalf of the technique being used to bleed the brakes.

I just need to know if theres anything else i'm leaving out or any other places i could be sucking up air. Or any other alternate ideas i could use to get my brakes running again!.

Thanks!

 

at any time during the swap (lines) did you accidently let enough fluid out to dry out the master cylinder? if so you couldve gotten an air pocket in there and its a biznatch to get out, i would also just go over everything make sure you dont have any leaks, and did you bench bleed the MC before you put it in? try pumping the pedal with the car off.. see if it gets hard.. if it doesnt you def got a leak

 

yea make sure the master cylinder always has fluid ...try it again and see if it helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdeemseerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">at any time during the swap (lines) did you accidently let enough fluid out to dry out the master cylinder? if so you couldve gotten an air pocket in there and its a biznatch to get out, i would also just go over everything make sure you dont have any leaks, and did you bench bleed the MC before you put it in? try pumping the pedal with the car off.. see if it gets hard.. if it doesnt you def got a leak </TD></TR></TABLE>

bench bleeding is always recomended when you put a new master cylinder on. but yea check for leaks, make sure if you have drums in the back that the rear wheel cylinder isnt blown, etc etc

 

ok...i also found these two tubes and looked like plastic bleeder screws which were in the same box as the MC, i'm guessing these are to bench bleed the MC

I dont exactly know how to go about "bench bleed" the MC, but i'm gonna guess that i run those two plastic bleeder screw looking things where the solid steel lines from the MC would go to the the car. and use the two small tubes provided, but i keep these tubes submerged in brake fluid and just pump the that shaft which would go into the booster?


i know i'm probably making it hard to explain so i'll draw a picture just lemme know if this is correct?

 

Route both tubes back into the brake fluid reserve on the top of the MC.

And then pump that biatch slowly until you stop seeing air bubbles come out of the lines!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Route both tubes back into the brake fluid reserve on the top of the MC.

And then pump that biatch slowly until you stop seeing air bubbles come out of the lines! </TD></TR></TABLE>


hmm yea i never though of that to route them back in the cylinder, and pump it slowly will prevent the new bubbles from getting sucked up again rite?

 

well i had the same problem.....so after changing the MC, front calipers and rear calipers....i bleed the whole system....started from the passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front and driver front.....and the problem whent away...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AZTEKEF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had the same problem.....so after changing the MC, front calipers and rear calipers....i bleed the whole system....started from the passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front and driver front.....and the problem whent away...</TD></TR></TABLE>


ok can i do this "bench bleed" while the MC is on the car and attached to the booster or should i take the MC off and then bleed it separately then put 'er back on..

 

Take it off the car and put it in a vise. Usually new MCs come with directions in the box. Here's a pic of me bleeding mine. Make sure the lines stay under the fluid, and don't do it really fast, wait at least 10 seconds between pumps. It can take a long time so get a beer or something.

 

yea...so took the MC off and bench blead that *****, still no luck, and at this stage i'm running out petience with these brakes, is there a possiblity that my new lines could be bad, i dint read anything but good stuff about these techna fit lines...i'm open for any other ideas...i'm gonna try to bench bleed this thing more...

 

i need to bleed mine again but as of right now i dont have those plastic screws or the tubes to bench bleed the mc. what can i do? and when i do go to bench bleed it why can it not be kept on the car and have someone step on the brake?? ( getting a crash course on doing my brakes lol )

 

and after bench bleeding the mc ( when lines are removed from the mc ) do you need to rebleed the brakes again or no? tia!!!

 

ttt

 

This is a difficult and lengthy process. The fact that you replaced the M/C and the lines at the same time makes it worse.

1) After changing my brake lines it took Forever to bleed the system.
2) After PROPERLY bleeding the M/C (took me three tries, this is not easy and can easily be done wrong) you have to bleed the entire system again b/c there will be air in the line at the M/C where you disconnnected them. Thus, you need to work these bubbles out of the system which take quite some time.
3) Unless you see brake fluid coming from the line fittings, there should be nothing wrong with the brake lines. Make sure you have everything tight and check all fitting for leaks (you will see brake fluid if there's a problem),

 

I think I have the same problem as you. I have brakes, but sometimes when cars slow down too quick i got to downshift and let it slow down manually while applying the brakes. My peddle feels ferm until about half way where it becomes kinda soft until it gets close to the bottem of the floor. I'm guessing I have to bleed my brakes again. Do you have drums in the back?