Keep my b18b turbo or switch to gsr turbo
Ive had a gsr coupe in the past and I really like the response when going into vtec. Now I have a new car which a b18b with a gsr trans turbo. My mechanic says that the gsr would be more reliable for my turbo because of the oil squirt in the crank. Can someone just clear this up for me would a gsr turbo be better than a ls turbo? and is my Mechanic right about the oil squirts?
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the oil squirters are to cool the stock cast pistons, which arent needed when going with forged internals.
just put a vtec head on the ls... youll like it even more
just put a vtec head on the ls... youll like it even more
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basically. plug them and get better oil pressure if you do get the gsr. but i say keep the ls and get a vtec head
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Who is Mr Robot?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cobra2326 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">V-Tech doesnt exist
</TD></TR></TABLE>
he's being sarcastic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>he's being sarcastic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically. plug them and get better oil pressure if you do get the gsr. but i say keep the ls and get a vtec head</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I was thinking about ls/vtec but I heard t's not too reliable. Well If I was going to do that what head should I get?
Yea I was thinking about ls/vtec but I heard t's not too reliable. Well If I was going to do that what head should I get?
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they are very reliable... the ppl that post about them not being reliable are the retards that dont know how to build them
the b16 is the better flowing of the two heads (stock) but i have a heavily ported gsr... its all up to you
the b16 is the better flowing of the two heads (stock) but i have a heavily ported gsr... its all up to you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with a D-series.
B-series is too easy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
God damn d-series guys floating around here like the flu I'll tell ya!!!!j/k
I would stick with what you have since you allready have it...Lots of potential with the ls motor as well as just about any other honda motor...Its all up to you, power can be had very easily any path you choose...
B-series is too easy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
God damn d-series guys floating around here like the flu I'll tell ya!!!!j/k
I would stick with what you have since you allready have it...Lots of potential with the ls motor as well as just about any other honda motor...Its all up to you, power can be had very easily any path you choose...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with a D-series.
B-series is too easy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol sorry bro Id never get a D series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99lspwr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
God damn d-series guys floating around here like the flu I'll tell ya!!!!j/k I would stick with what you have since you allready have it...Lots of potential with the ls motor as well as just about any other honda motor...Its all up to you, power can be had very easily any path you choose... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I've decide to just keep my ls. It only has 50k on it and I don't have any problems. But Right now i'm only boosting 4psi because of a leak in the flange and it should be 7psi. Is it normal for my car to bogg out at 6k rpm? I was told since i'm boosting so low that's normal and when I get the flange fix then it'll go to the original redline which is about 7k.
B-series is too easy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol sorry bro Id never get a D series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99lspwr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
God damn d-series guys floating around here like the flu I'll tell ya!!!!j/k I would stick with what you have since you allready have it...Lots of potential with the ls motor as well as just about any other honda motor...Its all up to you, power can be had very easily any path you choose... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I've decide to just keep my ls. It only has 50k on it and I don't have any problems. But Right now i'm only boosting 4psi because of a leak in the flange and it should be 7psi. Is it normal for my car to bogg out at 6k rpm? I was told since i'm boosting so low that's normal and when I get the flange fix then it'll go to the original redline which is about 7k.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are very reliable... the ppl that post about them not being reliable are the retards that dont know how to build them
the b16 is the better flowing of the two heads (stock) but i have a heavily ported gsr... its all up to you</TD></TR></TABLE>
k your right about the vtec being reliable it just depends on how smart you are really and how stupid you can get with these heads. with me i love vtec. and second um the best out of the 3 vtec heads are the type R cause it comes PnP from the factory, and the complete head is so great cause the cams arent to bad for turbo wich i would still use gsr for some resons and of the relieblity of the valvtrain. on the bad side that head cost a lot more then the 3. the second place winning head is the b16 cause its cheap, also reliable, and just PnP it add gsr cams and to go even bigger with boost aftermarket valvetrain is great. the last head that i would pick well maybe not even pick at all is of corse the GSR.
now about the LS motor. its great for power, has great guts, TQ and ya. the bad side of it is tuning it. the head doesnt flow as the way you would want it to. but it always depends on how good and i mean good of a tuner your man is. o and the other good thing about this motor is that the TQ would be as high as the HP.
well im just letting you know from my years as a teen right now learning and being on the computer researching about these loveable cars and motors.
either way is a good way. good luck man.
the b16 is the better flowing of the two heads (stock) but i have a heavily ported gsr... its all up to you</TD></TR></TABLE>
k your right about the vtec being reliable it just depends on how smart you are really and how stupid you can get with these heads. with me i love vtec. and second um the best out of the 3 vtec heads are the type R cause it comes PnP from the factory, and the complete head is so great cause the cams arent to bad for turbo wich i would still use gsr for some resons and of the relieblity of the valvtrain. on the bad side that head cost a lot more then the 3. the second place winning head is the b16 cause its cheap, also reliable, and just PnP it add gsr cams and to go even bigger with boost aftermarket valvetrain is great. the last head that i would pick well maybe not even pick at all is of corse the GSR.
now about the LS motor. its great for power, has great guts, TQ and ya. the bad side of it is tuning it. the head doesnt flow as the way you would want it to. but it always depends on how good and i mean good of a tuner your man is. o and the other good thing about this motor is that the TQ would be as high as the HP.
well im just letting you know from my years as a teen right now learning and being on the computer researching about these loveable cars and motors.
either way is a good way. good luck man.
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yea, the type r head has a mild port job from the factory, but you are paying for the "type-r" designation.. money better spent in other places IMO
the r head is a b16 casting that has been cleaned up a little (put them side by side and you will see how little has been done)
the r head is a b16 casting that has been cleaned up a little (put them side by side and you will see how little has been done)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, the type r head has a mild port job from the factory, but you are paying for the "type-r" designation.. money better spent in other places IMO
the r head is a b16 casting that has been cleaned up a little (put them side by side and you will see how little has been done)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I'm keeping my ls but is the bogging at 6k normal? It has had some tuning with uberdata for the 450cc injectors. I just bought the car so I just want to make sure this is alright.
the r head is a b16 casting that has been cleaned up a little (put them side by side and you will see how little has been done)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea I'm keeping my ls but is the bogging at 6k normal? It has had some tuning with uberdata for the 450cc injectors. I just bought the car so I just want to make sure this is alright.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b16 is the better flowing of the two heads (stock) but i have a heavily ported gsr... its all up to you</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've seen the two stock vs stock flowmaps overlaid, they look like the exact same curve with the B16 making 1 cfm more for a short duration. I'm confused?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLiLcIvIc605 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is it normal for my car to bogg out at 6k rpm. That probably has to do with the tuning of the uberdata right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a problem with the system, and are worried about the tune? Bog is probably from bad plugs, fix the leak, and see from there.
I've seen the two stock vs stock flowmaps overlaid, they look like the exact same curve with the B16 making 1 cfm more for a short duration. I'm confused?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLiLcIvIc605 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is it normal for my car to bogg out at 6k rpm. That probably has to do with the tuning of the uberdata right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a problem with the system, and are worried about the tune? Bog is probably from bad plugs, fix the leak, and see from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was it running more boost when it was tuned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well it's only holding 4psi because of a leak in the flange but it should be boosting 7psi. I was told after I get that fixed at 7psi then I should be able to boost to my redline which is about 7k
well it's only holding 4psi because of a leak in the flange but it should be boosting 7psi. I was told after I get that fixed at 7psi then I should be able to boost to my redline which is about 7k
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've seen the two stock vs stock flowmaps overlaid, they look like the exact same curve with the B16 making 1 cfm more for a short duration. I'm confused?
You have a problem with the system, and are worried about the tune? Bog is probably from bad plugs, fix the leak, and see from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well its not really a bog but it's like a sooner redline
I've seen the two stock vs stock flowmaps overlaid, they look like the exact same curve with the B16 making 1 cfm more for a short duration. I'm confused?
You have a problem with the system, and are worried about the tune? Bog is probably from bad plugs, fix the leak, and see from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well its not really a bog but it's like a sooner redline
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen the two stock vs stock flowmaps overlaid, they look like the exact same curve with the B16 making 1 cfm more for a short duration. I'm confused?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1cfm = flows better

well, was it at 4psi when tuned? the bog could be plug related.. check those, but it is also most likely fuel related.
edit: sooner redline... so maybe the tuner changed the rev limit until you get the leak fixed.... although i dont see why having a leak negates the stock redline... its not like the leak is going to seal up and all of the sudden have 7 psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1cfm = flows better

well, was it at 4psi when tuned? the bog could be plug related.. check those, but it is also most likely fuel related.
edit: sooner redline... so maybe the tuner changed the rev limit until you get the leak fixed.... although i dont see why having a leak negates the stock redline... its not like the leak is going to seal up and all of the sudden have 7 psi
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1cfm = flows better

well, was it at 4psi when tuned? the bog could be plug related.. check those, but it is also most likely fuel related.
edit: sooner redline... so maybe the tuner changed the rev limit until you get the leak fixed.... although i dont see why having a leak negates the stock redline... its not like the leak is going to seal up and all of the sudden have 7 psi</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the old owner of the car said it should be a 7lb spring in the wastgate. To make sure it was a leak my mechanic told me to disconnect the hose from the turbo to the wastegate and if the psi shoots up then it's something else but if it stays the same then there's a leak. So it stayed the same.
1cfm = flows better

well, was it at 4psi when tuned? the bog could be plug related.. check those, but it is also most likely fuel related.
edit: sooner redline... so maybe the tuner changed the rev limit until you get the leak fixed.... although i dont see why having a leak negates the stock redline... its not like the leak is going to seal up and all of the sudden have 7 psi</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the old owner of the car said it should be a 7lb spring in the wastgate. To make sure it was a leak my mechanic told me to disconnect the hose from the turbo to the wastegate and if the psi shoots up then it's something else but if it stays the same then there's a leak. So it stayed the same.


