I have none! The bulbs are new and I can hear the relay switch click when the lever is pushed for the hi beams.
Any suggestions?

 

I would suggest the problem lies either in yout headlight switch, or in one of the relays, What I would do is look in your under hood fuse box and you will see two larger relays, switch them and see if there is a difference. If there is no change i would suspect the switch.
Something else you could try is to get a multimeter and check for current at the plugs. (as always never tough the glass bulb with your bare skin)

 

Fuse might be toast, check the box in the engine bay

 

Thank you Ross, I'll try switching those relays first.

 

I didn't have time to check the hi beam headlights, but I'll let you know what happens?
I have another issue... on the way home last night, my stereo started cutting on then off, the tach was up and down, there was a clicking sound (relay?) from the glove box area, and the ABS dash light was on constantly? The headlights also were dim. When I got home I cut the car off and then tried to restart and it wouldn't crank? Later I tried starting it agian and it started fine. This am, it was hesitant but started up, but the ABS dash light is on again, and the clicking sound in the right side of the dash area is happening again too. What's up here? It seems like I drove thru the Bermuda triangle. Ha
Could it be a loose ground wire somewhere? I checked the battery terminals which are both tight and clean.
I have replaced the left front axle and the front brakes on this car, which I bought back in Sept., but when it comes to electrical issues I feel lost!
Thanks for any help on this situation.

 

If you've got a volt meter (or 'Multimeter) check the alternator output by sampling the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running.
You should find a constant 13.8 to 14.4 volts.
If it is anywhere near 12.5 volts, the alternator is trash.
The dim lights and the slow cranking is indicative of a low voltage situation.

The reason I want you to check this first?

Low voltage can cause relays (click noises) to release, or fail to activate properly. We have to determine in what direction the Cause/Effect works

The headlamps? They are individually fused L/Pair & R/Pair and also have individual relays for both the left and right side lamps. Considering the statistical improbability of both relays malfunctioning, I suspect the L/S Multifunction Switch on the steering column.

P

 

Thanks P, I'm on it this evening and will let you know.
That L/S muti function switch sounds like more trouble than it's worth? Is it difficult to replace?

 

No, it's not all that difficult. Four (4) screws and you can remove the plastic shroud behind the steering wheel. The switch itself uses four (4) screws to mount. You should be able to get a straight shot at it by turning the wheel to get that humongous wheel hub/airbag out of the way.

Considering the alternative of driving around Ashland Va. on a dark and stormy night with just low beams; I'd think a few cans of "liquid Fortitude" and the support of a "significant other" would make it a worthy project.

P


Modified by P_Adams at 3:44 PM 1/11/2006

 

You got a good point there P. It does get real dark out there in Ashland, Va.!
Do you know where I can get a cheap switch?
It looks like I'll be doing some "Honda garage" this weekend.
Once I get these minor problems fixed, I'm going to get some cosmetics done like a "Mugen" style rear spoiler and I'm going to paint the lower skirts to match the body color.
The car is in real good shape and will be taken care of from now on. It was kind of neglected before as the owner was a college student.
What do you think about installing a cold air intake, catback exhaust sytem, and ground wire kit? Do these items really make a difference? Aside from sound, will I have noticeable hp increase?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Bster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You got a good point there P. It does get real dark out there in Ashland, Va.!
1) Do you know where I can get a cheap switch?
2)....a college student.
What do you think about
3) Installing a cold air intake
4) Cat-back exhaust system
5) Ground wire kit?
Do these items really make a difference? Aside from sound, will I have noticeable hp increase? </TD></TR></TABLE>

1) Try These People ... $28.00
http://www.secureleadercom.com...block
2) Hey, what do you expect? No money, no time, no maintenance...
3) They sound aggressive, and may buy you 1 to 3hp. But when compared with the original 135hp, you most likely won't feel much of a difference.
4) Be careful which system you choose, most are a glass-pack (Perforated tube type) muffler system, and generate audible energy of over 100db. Most States start ticketing on anything over 85db. I have a MagnaFlow system on my '97 SE and although I have to admit it's a beautiful system, it drones so badly inside the car, that I've thrown up my hands and have ordered an RS*R ExMag system. (rated at 82db) $400.00 down the drain.
You will feel a difference with an exhaust system (Highly calibrated Dyno-Butt)
5) Unless you've a high-end 1000w sound system, don't bother. The entire vehicles chassis is a ground; just make sure everything's properly attached.

P

 

Thanks for all the info P. You're da best man and I really appreciate all of your help.
I'm taking your advice and will will let you know how these projects turn out in the near future.
I'll let you go for now so you can help another Honda rookie.
Have a great day.

 

If your "little bit 'o' heaven" in the Great State of Virginia has it's fair share of "twisty-turnies", you might entertain some suspension and brake upgrades at some point in your project.
The next time you have to change out the front brakes, think in terms of:
Brembo slotted Brake Rotors
Carbon Kevlar Brake pads
Stainless Steel Brake Hoses (Front & Rear)
This set-up has totally eliminated Brake Fade, and has made the brakes far more responsive.
Even if you've an EX, a set of Suspension Techniques Anti-Sway Bars will greatly reduce body roll and suspension response during cornering and transitional maneuvers.
Both these make the car a real 'hoot' to drive.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Bster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have none! The bulbs are new and I can hear the relay switch click when the lever is pushed for the hi beams.
Any suggestions?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

try a few quick tests,,,,,,,,first off , underhood fuse box chk fuses # 19 and 20 20amps each, and fuse # 32 15 amp,.if all ok,, get to combo switch plug, chk for power at wires ( 2 ) red/green and blue, both should have power , if they do get a jumper wire and ground the red/blue wire if hi-beam come on you got a bad combo switch.. if they don't come on, you could have a bad dimmer relay located in the underhood fuse box ,, it provides the ground path for ther lites..

.on the power side.. chk for power at headlite plug,, wires red/white left side and wire red/orange rt side they should both have power when set on high beam , if no power and the fuses were ok you got wiring issues ,, ,, if you get power at those wires than you got bad bulbs ..

i hope it was not too confusing..

 

That's a coincidence, I was thinking about soem slotted rotors and some better brake pads that don't dust up my wheels!
FYI - I had 7.7 V across the terminals once she cranked up last night. So I guess I need to call around for an alternator. Which chain do you think is better NAPA?

 

Not too confusing at all. Thanks for the info.

 

go with factory honda alternator.if you can afford it ........i have installed all sorts of brands and none last as long or is as realiable as the honda one,,,,,,,,,,Now if you do the work yourself, want to save a few bucks, and do not mind replacing it every few year or so, than i would go with a BOSCH,,i have had a better luck with bosch than any other aftermarket ,,,,, Do not get an alternator from ( Autozone,, Checker,) they are junk.. unless it is a Bosch..

 

Honda Reman Alternator:
Nippon Denso
Part Number: 31100-P0B-A01RM $242.42.

Aftermarket Reman Alternator:
Nipon Denso
Part Number: 181671 $179.95
http://www.secureleadercom.com...block

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda Reman Alternator:
Nippon Denso
Part Number: 31100-P0B-A01RM $242.42.

Aftermarket Reman Alternator:
Nipon Denso
Part Number: 181671 $179.95
http://www.secureleadercom.com...block

P
</TD></TR></TABLE>

go with the 1 P _A,,,wrote down, the ND FOR 179.95

 

I'm going to install the alternator and a CAI this evening and I'll let you know what happens.
The next project will be the light switch!
Thanks for the link for TSI also!
Have a great weekend.

 

I got the alternator on this weekend, but let me tell ya, a thirty min. job tuned into a nightmare from he!!. The alternator was loose and when I tried to tighten the bracket two out of the three bolts broke off in the engine block. Evidently, some moron had crossed threaded the bolts on the bracket that holds the alternator so they had to be drilled out and tapped!
After that headache, I'm back on the road today, and I learned something new. (the hard way)
I'll replace the headlight switch and hopefully that won't be near as bad.
Thanks again for all of your advice "Master P."