Okay, here is the situation.

I installed some brand new EBC green stuff pads and the Slotted brake discs.

They started off fine, but the brake shudder started coming and got pretty bad.

Figured the discs were warped from the factory, I put some brand new autozone blanks on. It made a huge difference at first, but now the shuddering is starting to come back.

Could it be that the pads are causing shuddering? even though they have no more than 700 miles on them?

 

Ever thought of anything left loose after the installation of the pads?

Did it already shudder before changing anything on the car?

 

Ah the green stuff shudder. I had that on blanks. I just went through the bedding procedure each time they did that, and it was quite often. I woulnd't get those pads again, ever. I got them for free and it was time to do a brake job so I used them.

 

Could be material transfer from the pads to the rotors... only fix is severe rebedding.

I've not heard of many people having success with those pads, and you are better off with those autozone blanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by icefire069 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ever thought of anything left loose after the installation of the pads?

Did it already shudder before changing anything on the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have had it apart now 5 times trying to figure it out, nothing is loose. There's only 4 bolts lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah the green stuff shudder. I had that on blanks. I just went through the bedding procedure each time they did that, and it was quite often. I woulnd't get those pads again, ever. I got them for free and it was time to do a brake job so I used them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What was the bedding procedure used. I read some where to do a couple 70-50 stops.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be material transfer from the pads to the rotors... only fix is severe rebedding.

I've not heard of many people having success with those pads, and you are better off with those autozone blanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you mean autozone pads or discs, I have the discs on at the moment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you mean autozone pads or discs, I have the discs on at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rotors. Can't beat the price and durability.

 

get hawks HPS

 

The procedure I used was 3 quick stops from about 75ish, wait 15 mins to cool and then 3 quick stops from about 50ish and let cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The procedure I used was 3 quick stops from about 75ish, wait 15 mins to cool and then 3 quick stops from about 50ish and let cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks Will try that today.

How is the pad causing it though?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Will try that today.

How is the pad causing it though?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If its material transfer, its leaving pad material on the surface of the rotor... and then you don't get a clean surface and its almost like its warped. A hard rebedding can clear/burn that off.

For my cobalts, i think I was doing medium 60-10s like 5-6x and then cooloff with no brake usage. then hard 60-10s 5-6x.

 

Thanks, I am going to try both routines and see what happens. It just sucks going from Autozone pads and rotors to supposedly high performance brakes and have a worse experience.

 

Yeah I haven't heard any good stories about those pads. The first time you bed the pads in it should shudder a bit, but after the bed process was complete and the shutter is still happening...I don't understand. Stick with Cobalt pads, they are kick *** pads and I haven't had any problems with them. Try taking the pads out again after a hard braking session and check to see what condition they are in. If they are glazed drag them on the ground with your foot for a bit to get some of the glazing off. If the rotor is completely warped or glazed over, try another rotor. The autozone's aren't that expensive anyways.

 

You can also hit the pad and rotor with some sand paper to rough/clean them up some. That'll make for a clean rebed, instead of having to "force" it... of course that requires labor

 

So are my discs now warped becuase of the pads?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So are my discs now warped becuase of the pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most likely not. They just have pad goo on them in spots - bedding will "clean off" these areas.

 

They could, not just because of the pads, you maybe just bought a warped pair. You pay a price when buying tiawanese rotors usually autozone's never have those problems.

 

When I buy my cheapo rotors I always turn them just a hair to make sure they are nice and flat.

 

aggghhh.

Just got back, the bedding idea did not do anything. Took the rotors to the shop and they are warped quite bad (the EBC one's)

The autozones are still on there, getting warped as well.

I am just going to take the EBC green **** pads out and put autozone's in there for now, along with the turned cross drilled. Its only $12 per disc.

Anyone know the warranty on autozone discs?

 

ehh I believe it's 2 year well atleast my autozone gives me a 2 year on them.

 

The Autozone warranty is two years on their more expensive rotors, one year on their less expensive rotors.

You need to get the brakes REALLY HOT to bed the rotors. Read more here and here.

 

Yeah nsxtasy is right, when I took the R out to the track one time, I was on Autozone blanks and Cobalt VR's. First session, the car was making noises I didn't think was possible with brakes, almost a sound of a rotor trying to explode. Came into the pits, checked the rotors, they were pretty much purple and you could cook a steak on the rims from the heat. Next session the brakes worked perfect. Brakes are wear items, dog them and get rid of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Factor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You pay a price when buying tiawanese rotors usually autozone's never have those problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What makes you so sure that autozone rotors aren't from taiwan?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What makes you so sure that autozone rotors aren't from taiwan?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You pay a price when buying tiawanese rotors usually autozone's never have those problems.


Your just assuming. Autozone rotors are made in China if you want to be specific.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What makes you so sure that autozone rotors aren't from taiwan?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been using the $25 front Autozone rotors, the ones with the two year warranty. I've found that they last as long as the stock rotors. I have a couple of new ones, still in the box... and according to the label on the box, Pollo is right - they are indeed made in Taiwan.

 

heh I never said they weren't made in taiwan. You pay a price when buying tiawanese rotors. Autozone being one of them.