DOHC ZC backfires in the intake
Right after I give it any more than say 25% gas on the throttle body, I get a backfire in my intake. I have like NO power in the low end. I realize this is probably a timing issue, but I have no timing gun. I checked the wires, thier correct. CEL is on because of the automatic ECU I have in there (PM7), but thats it. I removed the distributer to put it in the car, but other than that I've left it alone. I will check again, but I checked and rechecked my cam timing while it was out of the car.
Anything I can do withou a timing gun?
Anything I can do withou a timing gun?
Here is my timing. I linked to them not to strech out the thread, sorry I had no time to resize them. The cam pic is kinda off angle, bu t thier both at TDC.
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anything I can do withou a timing gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just go to CSK or autozone and ask to borrow one. Checkers let me borrow an obd2 code reader to fix my mom's minivan, all I had to do was hand over my ID.
Before I timed my car, I would ALWAYS backfire. It immediately went away when I timed the car.
Anything I can do withou a timing gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just go to CSK or autozone and ask to borrow one. Checkers let me borrow an obd2 code reader to fix my mom's minivan, all I had to do was hand over my ID.
Before I timed my car, I would ALWAYS backfire. It immediately went away when I timed the car.
How does my timing look though? The crank is off by a few mm (I had to use the mark in the oil pump gear, not the crank pully). I'm working on a timing gun, but none of the stores here seem to lend out timing guns.
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Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Nov 2005
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From: I Dont Care How They Do It In Japan...
The intake cam needs to go towards the front of the car 1 tooth maybe even 2 from the looks of the pic even though the belt is loose!!!!! see how that works!!!
Yes, the belt is tight. The angle of the pic is a bit off, but both cams are at TDC. I guess the crank being off would make the intake off by a tooth or so and the exhaust off as well.
Anybody have a specific tool you use to hold the cams? none of the ones I tried seem to want to work.
I am going to reposition the cams and crank. If thats not it I guess its a bent intake valve, although Hmotors (who I bought it from) says they do a compression and leakdown before they send them out.
Anybody have a specific tool you use to hold the cams? none of the ones I tried seem to want to work.
I am going to reposition the cams and crank. If thats not it I guess its a bent intake valve, although Hmotors (who I bought it from) says they do a compression and leakdown before they send them out.
ok your cam gears maybe perfectly lined up but if your crank is off like you said then the timing is out! set your crank at TDC then set your cams and chances are the problem will go away , failing that your distributor is out in which case you will need a timing light to set it properly.
Wait, okay. The injectors are numbered from the distributer? or the cams? I had them as number one next to the cams before, but now thier wired as number one being the distributer.
Ok, I'll fix them. I tend not to make sense once I'm frustrated.
Once I get the injectors back to right, I'll check my distributer. Wiring is correct, but the only thing I can think of is the firing order is wrong.
Once I get the injectors back to right, I'll check my distributer. Wiring is correct, but the only thing I can think of is the firing order is wrong.
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: I Dont Care How They Do It In Japan...
The intake cam needs to go forward dont line up the two marks on the inside use the mark on the frontside for the intake cause i had the same problem!!!!!
See, I AM using the front side. Sorry about my sloppiness guys, its just been kinda chaotic. Here is a good summary of my effortrs so far:
Let me start off by saying that this is my first swap. If its a stupid mistake, then its probably my fault. Now, my ZC will run, but it backfires out the intake if i give it more than 25% throttle at idle. It also idles funny, and if you rev it and let it drop to idle, the RPM's will drop low and sometimes it will stall. First thing you would probably say is cam timing, right? Take a look at mine:


Dead on, from what I can tell. Next is check the injector wiring (swapping from a DX). Done that, its all correct. I even reveresed it because I thought I had it backwards. Oops. Next is distributer wiring. I tried swapping the 2 white wires, it just wont start then. I tried doing the whole 1-3-4-2 wiring clockwise from the top, it wont start. Here is a pic of what my dizzy came wired as:

1
3-2
4
Weird, I know. I'm exhausted after 2 days of working, does ANYBODY have any idea why my car backfires in the intake? I'll check my wiring at the ECU again, but I have a feeling its dead on as well.
Let me start off by saying that this is my first swap. If its a stupid mistake, then its probably my fault. Now, my ZC will run, but it backfires out the intake if i give it more than 25% throttle at idle. It also idles funny, and if you rev it and let it drop to idle, the RPM's will drop low and sometimes it will stall. First thing you would probably say is cam timing, right? Take a look at mine:


Dead on, from what I can tell. Next is check the injector wiring (swapping from a DX). Done that, its all correct. I even reveresed it because I thought I had it backwards. Oops. Next is distributer wiring. I tried swapping the 2 white wires, it just wont start then. I tried doing the whole 1-3-4-2 wiring clockwise from the top, it wont start. Here is a pic of what my dizzy came wired as:

1
3-2
4
Weird, I know. I'm exhausted after 2 days of working, does ANYBODY have any idea why my car backfires in the intake? I'll check my wiring at the ECU again, but I have a feeling its dead on as well.
Your valve timing is not the problem, markings are a very good reference but not exact. I would suggest you don't ignore your engine light and may want to check for multiple codes. Your problem sounds like a bad map semsor, or a distributor going for a ****.
I have no CEL on at the molment, just cured my code 19 (auto lockup solenoid - ecu was from an automatic) by converting the ECU to a manual one.
You say the distributer may be going, I have one from my old d15. I dont believe it will fit, can anybody verify this?
The MAP sensor should be alright. I unplugged it and the car died.
You say the distributer may be going, I have one from my old d15. I dont believe it will fit, can anybody verify this?
The MAP sensor should be alright. I unplugged it and the car died.
your spark plug wires in that picture are completely wrong
#1 is at top of distributor and goes to sparkplug closest to timing belt
#3 on distributor is closest to front of car and goes to 3rd sparkplug from timing belt
#4 is at bottom of distributor and goes to sparkplug closest to distributor
#2 on distributor is closest to firewall and goes to 2nd sparkplug from timing belt
#1 is at top of distributor and goes to sparkplug closest to timing belt
#3 on distributor is closest to front of car and goes to 3rd sparkplug from timing belt
#4 is at bottom of distributor and goes to sparkplug closest to distributor
#2 on distributor is closest to firewall and goes to 2nd sparkplug from timing belt


