Project: CRX LS/Turbo Swap
I apologize ahead of time if this shouldn't be posted like this. Just thought it would be interesting to document the "restoration" process of this car.
Picked up a new addition to the family recently. I have been getting it back to running condition to make it driveable, as it was neglected for a long time. I was going to buy this car from my neighbor, then it was stolen. The police recovered it about 60 miles away, they stole the wheels/tires, distributor, rear compartament, and broke the antenna and combo switch. So far I have replaced the wheels/tires with a used set off a '95 LS, replaced the combo switch and ignition lock assembly. The thing does not have a radio in it either, got a new one on the way. The car also did not pass smog when I was going to buy it, found out the only thing it failed for was timing. Settled that easily once I replaced the distributor.
Not too bad for a car with 234,000 miles on it. I also had to replace the fan motor and resistor as that didn't work at all. The glove box was also broken, fixed that pretty easily. All this was done in the past 2 weeks. Anyways, on with the current pics:



Got a line on an B18B LS swap and some new seats. I'll try to document the process as much as possible.
Modified by ~Aj~ at 4:23 PM 1/2/2006
Picked up a new addition to the family recently. I have been getting it back to running condition to make it driveable, as it was neglected for a long time. I was going to buy this car from my neighbor, then it was stolen. The police recovered it about 60 miles away, they stole the wheels/tires, distributor, rear compartament, and broke the antenna and combo switch. So far I have replaced the wheels/tires with a used set off a '95 LS, replaced the combo switch and ignition lock assembly. The thing does not have a radio in it either, got a new one on the way. The car also did not pass smog when I was going to buy it, found out the only thing it failed for was timing. Settled that easily once I replaced the distributor.
Not too bad for a car with 234,000 miles on it. I also had to replace the fan motor and resistor as that didn't work at all. The glove box was also broken, fixed that pretty easily. All this was done in the past 2 weeks. Anyways, on with the current pics:


Got a line on an B18B LS swap and some new seats. I'll try to document the process as much as possible.
Modified by ~Aj~ at 4:23 PM 1/2/2006
I would like to make this car reliable enough for a DD but also take it to some auto-x meets on the weekends. I'm looking to do a full suspension setup, (full coils, sways, etc.) but no real noticeable mods. Try to keep it more of a sleeper. I'll drive it with the stock LS for awhile, then put on the turbo setup with the stock block. Not sure if I am going to build the motor later, probably not but you never know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of people make these threads. they are always fun. if you need any info or tips on the swap let me know. the body looks clean. enjoy the mpg while you got it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the offer. I could use all the help you can dish out. I don't want their to be any suprises, (any more than normal), and I want to make sure I have everything ahead of time so I am not running around getting parts at the last minute. I will have all the basic parts at arms length at the shop, so that helps. Looking to get this done in one weekend.
Oh and the best part - the car cost me $250.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of people make these threads. they are always fun. if you need any info or tips on the swap let me know. the body looks clean. enjoy the mpg while you got it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks for the offer. I could use all the help you can dish out. I don't want their to be any suprises, (any more than normal), and I want to make sure I have everything ahead of time so I am not running around getting parts at the last minute. I will have all the basic parts at arms length at the shop, so that helps. Looking to get this done in one weekend.
Oh and the best part - the car cost me $250.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thanks for the offer. I could use all the help you can dish out. I don't want their to be any suprises, (any more than normal), and I want to make sure I have everything ahead of time so I am not running around getting parts at the last minute. I will have all the basic parts at arms length at the shop, so that helps. Looking to get this done in one weekend.
Oh and the best part - the car cost me $250.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
since your already mpfi with the hf its pretty straight forward. warning; axle nuts, rusted bolts, and the bitch pin in the shift linkage will be problems more likely than not. pb blaster and air tools help alot though. make the dent in the driver side shock tower for the alt. pully, get the mounts, shift linkage, integra ecu, and decide if you want obd-0 or obd-1 and get the right harness ecu(for obd-1) or get a pr4 obd-0 computer and distributer and leave it obd-0.
i strongly reccomend pb blasting EVERY nut and the day before. and about an hr before.
Oh and the best part - the car cost me $250.
</TD></TR></TABLE>since your already mpfi with the hf its pretty straight forward. warning; axle nuts, rusted bolts, and the bitch pin in the shift linkage will be problems more likely than not. pb blaster and air tools help alot though. make the dent in the driver side shock tower for the alt. pully, get the mounts, shift linkage, integra ecu, and decide if you want obd-0 or obd-1 and get the right harness ecu(for obd-1) or get a pr4 obd-0 computer and distributer and leave it obd-0.
i strongly reccomend pb blasting EVERY nut and the day before. and about an hr before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
since your already mpfi with the hf its pretty straight forward. warning; axle nuts, rusted bolts, and the bitch pin in the shift linkage will be problems more likely than not. pb blaster and air tools help alot though. make the dent in the driver side shock tower for the alt. pully, get the mounts, shift linkage, integra ecu, and decide if you want obd-0 or obd-1 and get the right harness ecu(for obd-1) or get a pr4 obd-0 computer and distributer and leave it obd-0.
i strongly reccomend pb blasting EVERY nut and the day before. and about an hr before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The wiring is what worries me the most. I was looking at the Hasport conversion harnesses and briefly looked at Rywire's setups. I was also looking at the Hasport shift linkage setups as well. Anything to make this easier is key.
since your already mpfi with the hf its pretty straight forward. warning; axle nuts, rusted bolts, and the bitch pin in the shift linkage will be problems more likely than not. pb blaster and air tools help alot though. make the dent in the driver side shock tower for the alt. pully, get the mounts, shift linkage, integra ecu, and decide if you want obd-0 or obd-1 and get the right harness ecu(for obd-1) or get a pr4 obd-0 computer and distributer and leave it obd-0.
i strongly reccomend pb blasting EVERY nut and the day before. and about an hr before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The wiring is what worries me the most. I was looking at the Hasport conversion harnesses and briefly looked at Rywire's setups. I was also looking at the Hasport shift linkage setups as well. Anything to make this easier is key.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~Aj~ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wiring is what worries me the most. I was looking at the Hasport conversion harnesses and briefly looked at Rywire's setups. I was also looking at the Hasport shift linkage setups as well. Anything to make this easier is key.</TD></TR></TABLE>
since your hf is already mpfi i would just stay obd-0 for easy's sake. just get and obd-0 integra ecu and distibuter and your good. i buy hcp mounts and linkage. cheap and in my opinion WAY better than hasport. i think they are on sale at jdmshit.com
since your hf is already mpfi i would just stay obd-0 for easy's sake. just get and obd-0 integra ecu and distibuter and your good. i buy hcp mounts and linkage. cheap and in my opinion WAY better than hasport. i think they are on sale at jdmshit.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
since your hf is already mpfi i would just stay obd-0 for easy's sake. just get and obd-0 integra ecu and distibuter and your good. i buy hcp mounts and linkage. cheap and in my opinion WAY better than hasport. i think they are on sale at jdmshit.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
So the harness from the OBD1 integra will match right up with the OBD0 ecu? I'll check out the hcp mounts/linkage.
Oh and the lighting is teh suk in my garage, thus turning my paint into hypercolor!
since your hf is already mpfi i would just stay obd-0 for easy's sake. just get and obd-0 integra ecu and distibuter and your good. i buy hcp mounts and linkage. cheap and in my opinion WAY better than hasport. i think they are on sale at jdmshit.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
So the harness from the OBD1 integra will match right up with the OBD0 ecu? I'll check out the hcp mounts/linkage.
Oh and the lighting is teh suk in my garage, thus turning my paint into hypercolor!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~Aj~ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the harness from the OBD1 integra will match right up with the OBD0 ecu? I'll check out the hcp mounts/linkage.
Oh and the lighting is teh suk in my garage, thus turning my paint into hypercolor!</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, what you want to do is put the civic engine harness onto the integra motor. no matter whether you go obd-0 or obd-1 you are going to use the civic harness. everything should plug right up, you may need to extend some wires but i never have. you will also need to use the integra throttle cable. and cut a little back on the sheath of the civic clutch cable maybe 1/2 inch so you have room for adjustment. when do you paln to do the swap. just so you know my first one took me 2 full days, taking the motor out of the teg, out of my civic, and getting the teg motor in my civic. now i can do it in a day.
Oh and the lighting is teh suk in my garage, thus turning my paint into hypercolor!</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, what you want to do is put the civic engine harness onto the integra motor. no matter whether you go obd-0 or obd-1 you are going to use the civic harness. everything should plug right up, you may need to extend some wires but i never have. you will also need to use the integra throttle cable. and cut a little back on the sheath of the civic clutch cable maybe 1/2 inch so you have room for adjustment. when do you paln to do the swap. just so you know my first one took me 2 full days, taking the motor out of the teg, out of my civic, and getting the teg motor in my civic. now i can do it in a day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no, what you want to do is put the civic engine harness onto the integra motor. no matter whether you go obd-0 or obd-1 you are going to use the civic harness. everything should plug right up, you may need to extend some wires but i never have. you will also need to use the integra throttle cable. and cut a little back on the sheath of the civic clutch cable maybe 1/2 inch so you have room for adjustment. when do you paln to do the swap. just so you know my first one took me 2 full days, taking the motor out of the teg, out of my civic, and getting the teg motor in my civic. now i can do it in a day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah...I see. As soon as I can get all the parts together, I'll be ready. I have a tech at work who is going to help me. He is an ASE Master Tech and has been in the business for about 20 years. I will be taking delivery of all the Teg parts seperately from the car, so I won't have to tear it down myself.
no, what you want to do is put the civic engine harness onto the integra motor. no matter whether you go obd-0 or obd-1 you are going to use the civic harness. everything should plug right up, you may need to extend some wires but i never have. you will also need to use the integra throttle cable. and cut a little back on the sheath of the civic clutch cable maybe 1/2 inch so you have room for adjustment. when do you paln to do the swap. just so you know my first one took me 2 full days, taking the motor out of the teg, out of my civic, and getting the teg motor in my civic. now i can do it in a day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah...I see. As soon as I can get all the parts together, I'll be ready. I have a tech at work who is going to help me. He is an ASE Master Tech and has been in the business for about 20 years. I will be taking delivery of all the Teg parts seperately from the car, so I won't have to tear it down myself.
if you can get the teg harness for free i would get it. alot of times sensors go bad and they arent very cheap so its nice to have a complete harness around just to take plugs and **** off of.
another quick help i found out on my first one is unhook the down pipe from the bottom of the header
idk how the 02 sensor will work but also if you dont want to run into any trouble make sure the manifold is obd0 unless you run 0bd1 then you can run a obd1 manifold with no problems im running an obd1 manifold and my car is obd0 and it takes some time to get it running right
ill post some pics if you need them
also the car looks orange probably because of the flash of the camera looks overall clean how much rust ?
idk how the 02 sensor will work but also if you dont want to run into any trouble make sure the manifold is obd0 unless you run 0bd1 then you can run a obd1 manifold with no problems im running an obd1 manifold and my car is obd0 and it takes some time to get it running right
ill post some pics if you need them
also the car looks orange probably because of the flash of the camera looks overall clean how much rust ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you can get the teg harness for free i would get it. alot of times sensors go bad and they arent very cheap so its nice to have a complete harness around just to take plugs and **** off of. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea. You never know what will break on a 15+ year old car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the car looks orange probably because of the flash of the camera looks overall clean how much rust ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have not found any rust yet. It is a SoCal car. Bad lighting + flash = bad pic.
Good idea. You never know what will break on a 15+ year old car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the car looks orange probably because of the flash of the camera looks overall clean how much rust ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have not found any rust yet. It is a SoCal car. Bad lighting + flash = bad pic.
If i were you i would go obd1. You mentioned that you were going turbo and youd have more(and better)options on tuning software...which will be the most important thing when it comes to keeping a boosted car reliable. I say spend the extra money and go obd1.
BTW-Youre gonna love the boosted LS in a crx. So far it has been my favorite engine/car combo ive ever ridden in. I was only running 6psi and i made 200hp and 186ft/lbs. With that power i pulled on ALOT of cars that you wouldnt think i should pull on...including an 03 cobra, c4 vette that was modded out the ***(beats c5's easily from what he says), bpu supra, modded ss, and alot more
BTW-Youre gonna love the boosted LS in a crx. So far it has been my favorite engine/car combo ive ever ridden in. I was only running 6psi and i made 200hp and 186ft/lbs. With that power i pulled on ALOT of cars that you wouldnt think i should pull on...including an 03 cobra, c4 vette that was modded out the ***(beats c5's easily from what he says), bpu supra, modded ss, and alot more
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sCeRaXn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i were you i would go obd1. You mentioned that you were going turbo and youd have more(and better)options on tuning software...which will be the most important thing when it comes to keeping a boosted car reliable. I say spend the extra money and go obd1.
BTW-Youre gonna love the boosted LS in a crx. So far it has been my favorite engine/car combo ive ever ridden in. I was only running 6psi and i made 200hp and 186ft/lbs. With that power i pulled on ALOT of cars that you wouldnt think i should pull on...including an 03 cobra, c4 vette that was modded out the ***(beats c5's easily from what he says), bpu supra, modded ss, and alot more
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with going the OBD1 route. Engine management is key to making it run right. I would be happy with that kind of power you made in this car. That would be fun.
BTW-Youre gonna love the boosted LS in a crx. So far it has been my favorite engine/car combo ive ever ridden in. I was only running 6psi and i made 200hp and 186ft/lbs. With that power i pulled on ALOT of cars that you wouldnt think i should pull on...including an 03 cobra, c4 vette that was modded out the ***(beats c5's easily from what he says), bpu supra, modded ss, and alot more
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree with going the OBD1 route. Engine management is key to making it run right. I would be happy with that kind of power you made in this car. That would be fun.
snap that is right. i forgot the whole turbo thing. but you did say that would come down the road. i do know quite a few ppl running boosted obd-0 cars though running turboedit. one has about 11,000 miles on the turbo install and it still runs well.
Update:
Engine disassembled, all parts at machine shop.
Block: hot tanked, lightly honed (std)
Head: hot tanked, lightly surfaced
Rods: check for out of round
Crank: micropolished
The whole rotating assembly will be balanced at the end. Should have the parts back tomorrow.
Some pics:


Engine disassembled, all parts at machine shop.
Block: hot tanked, lightly honed (std)
Head: hot tanked, lightly surfaced
Rods: check for out of round
Crank: micropolished
The whole rotating assembly will be balanced at the end. Should have the parts back tomorrow.
Some pics:


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice, comin right along. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g-ride-si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice, comin right along. im guessing this is a weekends only kinda project for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sort of. All my parts are at work, so I work on it when I get a chance. Usually at the end of the day. We tore apart the motor in about 45 minutes.
Sort of. All my parts are at work, so I work on it when I get a chance. Usually at the end of the day. We tore apart the motor in about 45 minutes.



