ok guys i've searched all day long ... been reading posts everywhere ... i'm going to pick up a prybar and a metal clip for the axle tomorrow before i start ... is there anything else i need? (besides the axle ... lol) i picked up the lifetime warranty axle from autozone for 114 witha 40 Core ... any advice is much welcomed ... oh yea it's gonna be 34 degrees in my town tomorrow :-\ anyone in dutchess county is VERY WELCOMED to help me out lol

 

19mm socket
32mm socket with a 4 foot breaker bar.
17 mm wrent, 17 mm ratchet or wrench #2.
hammer
screwdriver
14mm on the ratchet (depending if you are doing B series on the left side)
New counter pin either for top or bottom balljoint depending which one you decide or able to seperate (IT'S A MUST, UNLESS YOU GOT A DEATHWISH FOR THE NEW YEAR)

And you are set. 5minute job after doing it a billion times.

 

32 mm for the axle nut
17mm
19mm
14mm
jack
jackstands

just take ur time... dont rush it.. its a very easy job if you do the removel in a certain order.. if not.. just takes an extra 5 minutes

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416

good luck

 

don't i need a 36 mm socket? i thought i read somewhere today something about 36mm ...

 

no

32mm

 

thanx for that link!!!! i was lookin for a tutorial all day with pics but i was searching for "axle install" instead of replacement .. u made my night i LOVE HT!!!!

 

yeah 32mm or 1 1/4"

 

its 32mm for the axel nut

heres a good tip you can use
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its 32mm for the axel nut

heres a good tip you can use
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just nail the control arm with a hammer until it breaks loose. I use the jack to tighten the nut, so that the balljoint doesn't spin.

For stuburn ones I got a puller.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just nail the control arm with a hammer until it breaks loose. I use the jack to tighten the nut, so that the balljoint doesn't spin.

For stuburn ones I got a puller.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sometime its quicker to do it with the rachet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ibe2fly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> oh yea it's gonna be 34 degrees in my town tomorrow </TD></TR></TABLE>

Some hot tea/coffee/chocolate wouldn't hurt, it will keep you warming. And maybe good work blanket to throw on the ground to keep your *** warm.....


Cheers and good luck.

 

4 foot breaker bar

and some gloves

 

i woke up and it was snowing :-\ axle postponed till monday ... tomorrow ill be non-functional until about 3pm lol gg New Years

 

if you have trouble getting the axle to pop back in the transmission.. try lining up the gap on the inside clip so it faces up. works every time for me.

 

I usually just lift the axle up to even with a ground, pull back and smash it in there. Goes in like butter.

 

I can change an axle in about 15 minutes as long as all goes as planned. These are my steps

1.Loosen lug nuts
2.jack up car
3.remove tire
4.stick kinda big flat head screw driver in rotor slot where the hole is in the brake caliper so it doenst move
5.get breaker bar and 32 mm socket remove axle nut
6.take the cotter pin out of the castle nut on the lower ball joint then undo nut
7.grab another 17 mm ratchet or wrench and remove the nut and bolt that holds the shock fork on. Once the nut comes off you might have to pound the bolt out with a flat head and hammer
8. get a small sledge hammer and hit the side of the lca where the ball joint enters ( might take a couple good whacks)
9. lift the ball joint out of the lower control arm and with the hammer hit the axle where it pops thrhough the hub to remove it
10. Pull the shock fork around the lca so the axle can drop.
11 Use a pry bar or just a screw driver or pickle fork stick it betweeen the tranny and axel to get it to seperate as soon as the seal breaks it should pull right out.
12.Now reverse the process for installation.

take the 10mm out of the vss so you can remove it to stick a funnel in it to fill the tranny back up with oil. Theres a 17 mm on the side of the tranny too that you'll need to take out so you'll know when the tranny is full

 

ok i still haven't got it done because weekends are like my only chance and it snowed this weekend .... but i was takling to a friend about getting an impact wrench to get the 32mm bolt off and he said that's not a good idea cuz if the bolt is on there good and i put the impact wrench to it it could break my wrist because it would spin ... is this valid?

 

only if you're a total ***** you would break your wrist.

wtf kinda info is he giving you. all you gotta do is hold the ******* impact gun firm and let the tool do the work. Just make sure you pry out the notch on the 32mm nut first or the axle will just spin. you'll see what i mean when you look at it.

 

I'm sorry but your friend is a dumbfuck. Impact guns won't make you break your wrist. Physically inpossible. 3 year child could use an impact and nothing would happen. But just get a fucken long breaker bar (in autozone or something cheap) if you friend is being a little bitch about it.

 

follow dumped si's steps. Those will work. You dont need an impact gun.

 

http://www.autozone.com/servle...Etrue

is that a good pry bar "set" to get? ill pick up tomorrow .. hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">19mm socket
32mm socket with a 4 foot breaker bar.
17 mm wrent, 17 mm ratchet or wrench #2.
hammer
screwdriver
14mm on the ratchet (depending if you are doing B series on the left side)
New counter pin either for top or bottom balljoint depending which one you decide or able to seperate (IT'S A MUST, UNLESS YOU GOT A DEATHWISH FOR THE NEW YEAR)

And you are set. 5minute job after doing it a billion times.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Someone refresh my memory because I can't seem to remember what the 19mm socket is for...

And for the record, it's actually called a cotter pin, not a counter pin. I just thought I'd throw that in there just in case he walks into a hardware store looking for one and can't seem to find it under "counter pin."

And
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sorry but your friend is a dumbfuck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I pretty much agree. I actually laughed out loud when I read that "friend said it could break my wrist" part.

 

You're going to have a blast getting that axle nut off by hand. I cracked a socket and broke 2 socket handles. I used the Jack's long bar thingy that you use to jack the jack up as my breaker bar.

 

ok this is what's confusing me i'm hearing breaker bar and someone saying screw driver ... how exactly do you use this breaker bar / screw driver to keep the rotor from turning so i can get off the axle bolt?

 

latex gloves under work gloves. Helps keep warm. Skin breaks and rips easier when its cold. I install laminate flooring, unloading a truck at 7:30 am behind BWI airport is pretty freaking cold because of the planes blowing past you.