breaking in cams
hey i recently purchased some buddy club spec IV cams...all i need to know is what do i have to do to break in the cams?
i read on another site that u need to keep it idling on 2200rpm for 20 minutes...also a fren broke in his toda spec C cams by keeping it between 5000-6000rpm for 5 minutes...on this site i read how a guy with these same cams drove for 1200 miles to break it in and on another site i need to drive 1000 miles to break it in but it was with another type of cam...
my fren said how i should of gotten instructions on how to break in the cams in the box i got the cams in but all i got was a paper saying the specs of the cams
plz let me know anything u guys know about breaking in cams....thanks in advance
i read on another site that u need to keep it idling on 2200rpm for 20 minutes...also a fren broke in his toda spec C cams by keeping it between 5000-6000rpm for 5 minutes...on this site i read how a guy with these same cams drove for 1200 miles to break it in and on another site i need to drive 1000 miles to break it in but it was with another type of cam...
my fren said how i should of gotten instructions on how to break in the cams in the box i got the cams in but all i got was a paper saying the specs of the cams
plz let me know anything u guys know about breaking in cams....thanks in advance
did you rebuild the whole head??? if not you shouldnt have to worry about breaking them in as long as you lubbed them up properly just take it easy to make sure everything is going good...if you did rebuild it try keeping it at about 2000 rpms for about 20 min then just take it gradually into the higher rpms after..at least thats what ive seen people do correct me if im wrong
i have done this disable the ignition and fuel and primed the oil in the engine by craking it in 3 incriments of 20 seconds. Then started with fuel and spark and held at 2000rpms for 20 mins. Its the old school way but it works.
whats a break in? lol. There is really nothing to break in as far as the head goes. You will read and hear about all different methods so it is up to you to chose. Personally the only thing I bother doing any type of break in on is a fresh bottom end rebuild and I usually put a few miles on a clutch before beating on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is really nothing to break in as far as the head goes. You will read and hear about all different methods so it is up to you to chose. </TD></TR></TABLE>
not honda specific but here are some that I found . :
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htm
for pushrod (lifter) motors they state the following:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Correct break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
....The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/cambreakin.html »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
• Do Not Idle the Engine- As soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes....Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance.
Once Break-in is Complete- Drain and replace the engine oil and filter with new, fresh oil and a new filter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the rationale to the higher rpm speed is to circulate more oil and less loading on the lobe nose.
virtually everyone agrees that it's recommended to apply a molybdenum based assembly lube to the cam lobes and rocker surface to reduce initial start-up wear.
the lash and all the valvespring clearances & interference checks were completed prior to firing up the engine. if the engine doesn't turn over immediately, do not try to continually attempt to crank it over as this will wear the cam lobe.
you can do nothing or do something....what harm can happen if you go out of your way to just go though the motion or exercise of a break-in step???..nothing to lose...well maybe what? 20 min. to an hr....and possibly reduced wear/scoring ?
Modified by Michael Delaney at 10:31 PM 12/30/2005
not honda specific but here are some that I found . :
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htm
for pushrod (lifter) motors they state the following:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Correct break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
....The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/cambreakin.html »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
• Do Not Idle the Engine- As soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes....Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance.
Once Break-in is Complete- Drain and replace the engine oil and filter with new, fresh oil and a new filter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the rationale to the higher rpm speed is to circulate more oil and less loading on the lobe nose.
virtually everyone agrees that it's recommended to apply a molybdenum based assembly lube to the cam lobes and rocker surface to reduce initial start-up wear.
the lash and all the valvespring clearances & interference checks were completed prior to firing up the engine. if the engine doesn't turn over immediately, do not try to continually attempt to crank it over as this will wear the cam lobe.
you can do nothing or do something....what harm can happen if you go out of your way to just go though the motion or exercise of a break-in step???..nothing to lose...well maybe what? 20 min. to an hr....and possibly reduced wear/scoring ?
Modified by Michael Delaney at 10:31 PM 12/30/2005
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Actually what your doing is glazing the surface of the cam lobe.You only need to do that when the cam is brand new.Also you ever take it apart after its broke in.Don't mix up the rockers or if you have lifters same thing goes.
Modified by RMF at 10:04 PM 12/30/2005
Modified by RMF at 10:04 PM 12/30/2005
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