im building up a 93 ls with os itr pistons, hopefully full crower valve train. would it be better for me to buy a type r oil and water pump for my setup? i will be revving to 8k, not all the time but sometimes. and i would need a type r timing belt aswell right? all input is appriciated!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im building up a 93 ls with os itr pistons, hopefully full crower valve train. would it be better for me to buy a type r oil and water pump for my setup? i will be revving to 8k, not all the time but sometimes. and i would need a type r timing belt aswell right? all input is appriciated!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup,use the type R belt for type R pump/s

just remeber that you may not be able to use the LS t-belt cover..it might not matter, but just givin a heads up..

 

GSR or b16 water and oil pumps would work fine as well, they are all basically the same, you could also use the GSR belt, it might save you a little money when you go to get one because Type-R= more money haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup,use the type R belt for type R pump/s

just remeber that you may not be able to use the LS t-belt cover..it might not matter, but just givin a heads up..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanx for the input guys.... what timing belt cover would i need to get if it doesnt fit?? guess ill go gsr oil/water pump or whatever i can get the best deal on.

 

one more thing, my oil pick up will bolt right up to it right? no problems there or will i need to get a different oil pick up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing, my oil pick up will bolt right up to it right? no problems there or will i need to get a different oil pick up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it will bolt up.

Any oil pump from 98 and up will be the same. I bought and use an ITR oil pump. Teh LS timing belt will still fit until you put on a water pump from an ITR or GSR. The teeth count is different. From there you will need to use a GSR T-belt.

hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes it will bolt up.

Any oil pump from 98 and up will be the same. I bought and use an ITR oil pump. Teh LS timing belt will still fit until you put on a water pump from an ITR or GSR. The teeth count is different. From there you will need to use a GSR T-belt.

hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, thanx and it does help! i have couple more questions if they could be answered please. Im going to be boring out my block, maybe .25 or .40 over, depending what pistons i get, if i get a 81mm headgasket, can the headgasket "bored" to fit the os bore? or is it best for me to get a headgasket that comes os'ed alread?

 

buy an oversized headgasket. Look into cometic headgaskets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing, my oil pick up will bolt right up to it right? no problems there or will i need to get a different oil pick up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you decide to run a girdle you will need a GSR or ITR tray and oil pick up

so people use girgles and some dont, a stock GSR/ Type-R one should be fine if you want to use one

are you going all motor LS? or LSvtec?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdc2lsVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you decide to run a girdle you will need a GSR or ITR tray and oil pick up

so people use girgles and some dont, a stock GSR/ Type-R one should be fine if you want to use one

are you going all motor LS? or LSvtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
im going all motor ls. i dont want something fast just some good power. and ill get decent power out of the ls. what goods would the girdle do? dont really know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im going all motor ls. i dont want something fast just some good power. and ill get decent power out of the ls. what goods would the girdle do? dont really know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the girdle is more for structural support, it keeps the block and main bearing caps from moving or strecthing at high RPM's and strengthens the bottom end of the block

i may run one on my LS-vtec, i have heard of people reving to 9k without them on lsvtec's, and B16's do not come with girdles, the B18c's do to help with the extra stress put on the block from the longer stroke

 

all the vtec pumps are the same u just gotta have a vtec belt too. You need a 1.8 vtec belt to match.

use a girdle and a gsr windage tray and pickup, ls oil pan will work but u gotta beat it out with a rubber mallet.

 

If you're going to be revving that high, you want to use ARP rod bolts in the LS rods... Stock 7mm LS rod bolts are the weak point in the LS bottom ends. Replace the bolts and you're golden.

Also, you might want to think about a crank balance as well, a girdle is not necessary IMO.

 

thanx for the advices guys. i will be getting 8mm ARP rods bolts. im also going to take my crank to get it balanced, inspected and micropolished. The ARP 8mm rod bolts should hold up fine right? or should i go 9mm? thanx again fellas!

 

you should probably go with the 8mm arp rod bolts, those are the reccomended length, and torque them down to 23 foot lbs, everyone i know torques them there and they have never had a rod bolt failure, the rod would break before the rod bolts gave out or spun a bearing

and make sure you get all new bearing for the main and rods, ACL are pretty cheap and work great, just make sure your clearances are exact

 

happy new years!!!
i am getting ACL bearings for the bottom end. I was also thinking of replacing the bearings for the cams??? dont know if ACL sells them. Have any idea who might? thanx again for ur feedback.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was also thinking of replacing the bearings for the cams??? dont know if ACL sells them. Have any idea who might? thanx again for ur feedback.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think there are bearings for the cam caps that is the first time i have heard of that, i dont believe there are any but someone correct me if im wrong

You should get some Plasti-guage to measure you bearing clearances (just a helpful hint)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">happy new years!!!
i am getting ACL bearings for the bottom end. I was also thinking of replacing the bearings for the cams??? dont know if ACL sells them. Have any idea who might? thanx again for ur feedback.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No bearings. Just make sure you apply a healthy amount of assembly lube on the cams, and rocker arms when you assemble. (Along with the bottom end as well...)

 

ok, guess i was wrong, even though when i took the cam caps off i thought i saw bearings, i think even the haynes book i got said that. ill have to double check.
i was just thinking about this and after i bore my block, i dont have to do anything to the head right? i dont have to bore the combustion chamber to match the bore on the cylinder? or do i have to do that? thanx

 

this is kind of a dumb questions but i rather be on the safe side.... Will a 96 ls head will bolt up to my fine to my 93 ls block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is kind of a dumb questions but i rather be on the safe side.... Will a 96 ls head will bolt up to my fine to my 93 ls block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont have to do anything to the head right? i dont have to bore the combustion chamber to match the bore on the cylinder? or do i have to do that? thanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

No.

Just have the surface checked to make sure it is flat...

 

just checked my book again it there are bearings on the caps the go over the camshaft journal to bolt it up. I dont know if any of you have heard of this before but i just saw it and it shows also how to check for oil clearance with plastigue.

 

About having the crank balanced and no girdle. I would suggest the exact opposite. There some machinists around here that will balance the cranks if you want them to but they have been finding that the honda cranks are so good and its usually not worth it.

Just take that how you want to.

I would rather (and do) have the girdle over balancing because i havent heard of one being out of whack. (just my experience)

 

well the crank that i have now has around 150k miles i think, if not more. so i just rather be on the safe side even if i end up wasting money cause i didnt need to have it balanced.
Whats the max an LS head can be milled?? Im about to buy a head with crower spring, retainer, oem valves and valve seals for a good price, he said the head was milled but didnt know excatly how much, he just knows it was milled to the max. is there a way to find out how much was milled out? thanx