I purchased a motor for 100$ and it came with flywheel/clutch. Was wondering how could I tell if its any good while it's outside of the car? Should I/Can I clean it? Here are some pictures of it:

 

It certainly looks nasty! Is that rust on the teeth? If so, scrap it or at least replace the rusted parts.

 

I'm pretty sure the pressure plate has to go.

 

Clutch Trouble Diagnosis

The following information is provided to assist you in recognition of the problem based on your clutch performance symptoms, correct diagnostics eliminates solving problem(s) that you may or may not have:

Clutch Chatters and Grabs:

1. Improper pedal adjustment

2. Improperly adjusted cover assembly

3. Bent or warped clutch cover

4. Worn pilot bearing or bushing

5. Dry or poorly lubricated pilot bearing

6. Dust, grease, oil or foreign matter in clutch

7. Gummy, glazed or worn clutch facings

8. Unequal spring pressure

9. Release levers binding

10. High spot on pressure plate

11. Flywheel not resurfaced at installation

12. Insufficient cushion in sprints or stamping of clutch plate

13. Broken, cracked, grooved or warped pressure plate

14. Heat flattened cushion springs

15. Flexible center or hub springs broken, weak or worn

16. Bent clutch plate due to installation error

17. Burrs on clutch plate splines

18. Bent main drive gear

19. Misalignment of clutch and transmission

20. Bell housing misalignment

21. Hill holder unit incorrectly adjusted

22. Loose or worn universal joints

23. Loose U-joint companion flange

24. Propeller shaft and U-joints misaligned

25. Excessive end play in rear spring shackles

26. Excessive backlash in U-joints or rear axle

27. Loose bell housing bolts

28. Loose or worn axle shaft splines

29. Loose flywheel to crankshaft bolts

30. Loose rear spring saddles

31. Loose rear spring U-bolts

32. Loose or worn engine and transmission mountings

33. Worn clutch fork

34. Worn throwout bearing

35. Throwout bearing carrier binding or cocked on sleeve

36. Heat-set diaphragm spring

37. Weak retractor springs used on diaphragm spring assemblies

38. Burrs on main drive gear splines

39. Dirt, burrs or nicks between flywheel and crankshaft flange

40. Worn torque shaft bushings

41. Loose motor support rods

42. Wrong type of facing used

http://www.drivetrain.com/cldiacht.html

 

I have no way how it's performing as I got the engine for 100$. So this engine/clutch was never in my car. As a matter of fact my car is originally Auto and I'm going to be using this clutch and stuff if it ends up being good, and keeping the engine as a spare.

Can they in any way be cleaned or something? I'm broke as hell.

 

I would say, if you can replace that clutch. Pro Clutch on ebay have pretty good deals. Or take it apart and clean up all the rust, then re grease all the bearings and reinstall.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wwang924 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say, if you can replace that clutch. Pro Clutch on ebay have pretty good deals. Or take it apart and clean up all the rust, then re grease all the bearings and reinstall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea thats what I was wondering if I could do. Do you personally know how I would go about doing so?

 

Dude just buy a new stock one. What motor is it, D15? I got a kit for $95 on ebay. Its worth it at the end, better than taking the tranny out once you find out that the clutch doesnt hold. Just my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-Rcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude just buy a new stock one. What motor is it, D15? I got a kit for $95 on ebay. Its worth it at the end, better than taking the tranny out once you find out that the clutch doesnt hold. Just my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, better get a exedy oem replacement (can still hold like 10% or so more power) for like $100 shipped off ebay man... Can't complain. Had one in my hatch, great clutch.

 

True... Errmm... man. This sucks. I have like no money to spend on this as it is. Time to shell out another 100$ for a new clutch. If I took this one apart any way I could tell if its still good?

edit: Motors a D16 btw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic4less &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True... Errmm... man. This sucks. I have like no money to spend on this as it is. Time to shell out another 100$ for a new clutch. If I took this one apart any way I could tell if its still good?

edit: Motors a D16 btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could but you need a clutch alignment tool (or input shaft) to put it back together. Take it apart and look for grooves on the disk, condition of the clutch pressure plate, and the condition of the flywheel.

If you decide (which is highly recomended) just to switch the clutch, resurface the flywheel because that clutch isn't going to hold as it's supposed to.

If you are broke just save up money and just drive on the old motor (unless that motor has already blown or ready to blow.

It also should take you around 3-5 hours to replace the clutch on the while the motor is in the car, doing it the first time, so think about it good before you put the motor in. I also suggest replacing rear main seal before it goes in (so add an oil pan gasket as well). Yeah I know it's expensive but save yourself time and trouble for later repairs.

 

Aren't OEM style replacments pretty cheap?? I mean you only paid a bill for it, but i understand if cash is an issue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are broke just save up money and just drive on the old motor (unless that motor has already blown or ready to blow.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Transmissions broken. Need this clutch because i'm doing 5spd conversion. It just happen to come with the motor I was going to use. But I decided to just keep the stocker in there until something goes wrong with it. But I guess i'll just get a new one or something. I haven't driven my car for 7 months because all these damn problems and heres another one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eXcelonTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aren't OEM style replacments pretty cheap?? I mean you only paid a bill for it, but i understand if cash is an issue</TD></TR></TABLE>

oem style are actually pretty good. It comes with exedy disk and pressure plate, and some ait pilot and throwout bearing. Installed one of those on this kids car, he didn't complaint. For $100 it's a hell out of deal. It's pretty much exact OEM replacment.

 

Can anyone link me?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oem style are actually pretty good. It comes with exedy disk and pressure plate, and some ait pilot and throwout bearing. </TD></TR></TABLE>