what else is a good upgrade for stability??
93 Civic I upgraded: ES Bushing, Tein SS coilover, Yokohama H4s tires 204/45/16, what should I upgrade next for more stability and tight feeling?
Sway bars? Front & rear spoiler for aerodynamic? or ??
Sway bars? Front & rear spoiler for aerodynamic? or ??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A proper alignment does wonders for stability. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it does. installed a skunk2 pro series kit and it is awesome
yes it does. installed a skunk2 pro series kit and it is awesome
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcVTECeg2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it does. installed a skunk2 pro series kit and it is awesome
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both front and back?? or just the front??
what about ball joints? are those good upgrades??
</TD></TR></TABLE>both front and back?? or just the front??
what about ball joints? are those good upgrades??
front and rear sway bars, especially 19 or 22mm rear sway bar (with reinforcement kit for subframe) will add stability.
With my stock 13mm rear sway bar, the back always felt loose when braking very hard...oddly enough, now with the 22mm rear sway bar under heavy braking car is planted now and does not feel loose.
In corners however, the car rotates so much better, its really a great handling upgrade and will cause the body to roll less in hard corners too.
You have new bushings and good coilvers, i'd upgrade in this order:
1 - scrap those H4's and get a good tire like Azeni's, Hankook Z212 or even Yoko ES100's, etc...anything is better grip then the H4's
- good tires will upgrade braking and handling in one, its the best upgrade for a car even better then any suspension upgrade you can think of, since without good tires...the car will not stick
2 - front and rear sway bars
With my stock 13mm rear sway bar, the back always felt loose when braking very hard...oddly enough, now with the 22mm rear sway bar under heavy braking car is planted now and does not feel loose.
In corners however, the car rotates so much better, its really a great handling upgrade and will cause the body to roll less in hard corners too.
You have new bushings and good coilvers, i'd upgrade in this order:
1 - scrap those H4's and get a good tire like Azeni's, Hankook Z212 or even Yoko ES100's, etc...anything is better grip then the H4's
- good tires will upgrade braking and handling in one, its the best upgrade for a car even better then any suspension upgrade you can think of, since without good tires...the car will not stick
2 - front and rear sway bars
for reinforcement kit, do i really need it when i'm planning on getting the st 19mm rear swaybar? i searched, and i found a lot said there's no need for the reinforcement for 19mm.....
why my rear tightened up, can't tell ya...i don't know why but it has. Nothing else has changed either.
Reinforcement is usually req for 19+ on EG or EK, With EG a Beaks kit may do it, i really don't know, but reinforcement is req and not a bad idea as cheap insurance. someone else with more EG knowledge will tell you more about the reinforcement but Honda subframes are not strong at all.
Reinforcement is usually req for 19+ on EG or EK, With EG a Beaks kit may do it, i really don't know, but reinforcement is req and not a bad idea as cheap insurance. someone else with more EG knowledge will tell you more about the reinforcement but Honda subframes are not strong at all.
Poly-bushing kit.
New ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods.
Front and Rear swaybars
If you still want more, you can install frame locks and fender braces. Front and rear strut tower bars and a lower tie bar.
New ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods.
Front and Rear swaybars
If you still want more, you can install frame locks and fender braces. Front and rear strut tower bars and a lower tie bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Poly-bushing kit.
New ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods.
Front and Rear swaybars
If you still want more, you can install frame locks and fender braces. Front and rear strut tower bars and a lower tie bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
there are upgrades for ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods?? i thought those are only oem ****..
New ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods.
Front and Rear swaybars
If you still want more, you can install frame locks and fender braces. Front and rear strut tower bars and a lower tie bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>
there are upgrades for ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rods?? i thought those are only oem ****..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_93Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, my friend and i were installing skunk2 camber kit. He notice my tie rods angle up since my car is lower but not slam. is this normal??</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_93Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, my friend and i were installing skunk2 camber kit. He notice my tie rods angle up since my car is lower but not slam. is this normal??</TD></TR></TABLE>
since the angle the tie rod makes differs from original (its more 'up' than horizontal), your dynamic toe (bump steer) may be off. A remedy would be to mount the rack higher/lower to compensate for the angle or modify the tie-rod ends to be adjustable in/out of the hole to allow adj for bumpsteer/dynamic toe. You can buy heim-joint tierod ends from circle track suppliers, would just have to modify the hole-mount in the knuckle since i believe they are either not tapered or the taper is different. You could also try flipping the way the tie-rod end mounts from bottom>top to top>bottom but the taper would be off.
Modified by chrisw85 at 6:17 PM 1/6/2006
since the angle the tie rod makes differs from original (its more 'up' than horizontal), your dynamic toe (bump steer) may be off. A remedy would be to mount the rack higher/lower to compensate for the angle or modify the tie-rod ends to be adjustable in/out of the hole to allow adj for bumpsteer/dynamic toe. You can buy heim-joint tierod ends from circle track suppliers, would just have to modify the hole-mount in the knuckle since i believe they are either not tapered or the taper is different. You could also try flipping the way the tie-rod end mounts from bottom>top to top>bottom but the taper would be off.
Modified by chrisw85 at 6:17 PM 1/6/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16vtecx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spoilers dont do anything except look rice</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol...wut bout a stylish wing! :-D lol
imo... adjustable front and rear aeros (wings/spoilers/etc) are sorta needed for highspeed racing...
i mean.. in gt4 (the real driving simulator) :-D... ever drive a car without one.. then put one on it... increase the downforce to 7ish.. its just soo different...but thats a game... and not real life....
i should just shutup now...
lol...wut bout a stylish wing! :-D lol
imo... adjustable front and rear aeros (wings/spoilers/etc) are sorta needed for highspeed racing...
i mean.. in gt4 (the real driving simulator) :-D... ever drive a car without one.. then put one on it... increase the downforce to 7ish.. its just soo different...but thats a game... and not real life....
i should just shutup now...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> A remedy would be to mount the rack higher/lower to compensate for the angle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think i'll try this since it's the easiest and should be the most effective of fixing the angle.
i think i'll try this since it's the easiest and should be the most effective of fixing the angle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG_93Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i think i'll try this since it's the easiest and should be the most effective of fixing the angle.
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it may be the hardest. you'd have to fab custom mounts for the subframe where the rack mounts (unless you had to move it up so far as to mount it to the firewall., as well as make the steering column shorter.
i think i'll try this since it's the easiest and should be the most effective of fixing the angle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>it may be the hardest. you'd have to fab custom mounts for the subframe where the rack mounts (unless you had to move it up so far as to mount it to the firewall., as well as make the steering column shorter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it may be the hardest. you'd have to fab custom mounts for the subframe where the rack mounts (unless you had to move it up so far as to mount it to the firewall., as well as make the steering column shorter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn, i guess the better way is mounting the end rod upside down....
damn, i guess the better way is mounting the end rod upside down....






