i need some good help on this guys, the techheads and people who have experience on it. i've done a few research on it, but none close enough and more specific, and i'm still doing some more research.

plan: d16 mini-me swap

i'm buying the following off my friend for $275. a newly rebuilt d16y8 head (includes the solenoid, cams, valves, valve springs etc.), distributor, ecu, wiring harnesses, i/m, e/m, head gasket. good price???

i will need to have the i/m gasket, t/b, e/m gasket, (will the head bolts be the same?). this is all i have come up with.

please assist me in any way you can guys. i'm sure this project won't go on for a couple of weeks, cause i still need the rest of the parts and components.

i need to know what else would i need. a complete and specific how-to. as soon as i get this project off the ground, i'm sure i will post pics, and pull up a whole new post for it. thanx a million h-t memebers.

M/K


[Modified by midnitekreeper, 11:51 PM 3/18/2002]

 

I'm VERY interested in this too....My friend and I are going to put a G5 EX(what's the engine code for this?) head on his 98 civic LX. DO we need to run oil lines? What about wireing, distributers ect ect? He has the EX head, intake manifold, throttlebody and an OBD2 EX ecu. What else does he need?...please help.

 

are you referring to a 92-95 SOHC VTEC engine? it breaks down like this if that's what your asking:

89-91 SOHC Si motor: D16A6
92-95 SOHC VTEC Si/EX engine: D16Z6
96+ SOHC VTEC EX coupe engine: D16Y8 (has a mini type-R style intake manifold)

 

for y8 head and ecu, add wires for knock sensor, vtec, and swap pins for the iacv (idle air control valve) as the y7 non vtec uses a 3 wire rotary style and the ex uses a 2 wire one. you def need to tap for oil supply. all the bolts and the distributor are the same, and the gaskets are as well but i'd get all new ones for the head you are using. I think its easier to use a y7 ecu, and a vafc, or rpm switch AND afc for vtec activation. you can leave the knock sensor undone and either relocate the 3 wire iacv or get a tb from an automatic ex which uses the same style iacv as the y7 I THINK..i just relocated my y7 iacv when using the built y8 i have because i had a tweaked 10 rpm ecu left over from my old build, i have no MIL's, but i do not have a cold idle...big deal.

[Modified by builthatch, 6:25 PM 3/18/2002]


[Modified by builthatch, 6:26 PM 3/18/2002]

 

it's a '96 DX to '98 EX


[Modified by midnitekreeper, 12:45 AM 3/19/2002]

 

wha? come again ?

 

You don't need to tap any oil supply.

You'll want to use the ECU from a 5 speed EX and refer to the Helms to wire up the IACV properly. You can use the ECU to activate VTEC. Make sure you wire up the VTEC oil press sensor or it will barf on itself.

Get your parts from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com, they are awesome and have way better prices than any retail shop or dealer I've ever seen. All the bolts and gaskets are the same..

Check my site for more details..
http://www.nerdsbyte.com/honda

 

ehhh..def. did not know the y7 block had the oil galley hole for the vtec solenoid!!!...i never payed attenton as i just used a y8block and all our ls/vtec used external oil lines..thanks for the info.BUT- besides the obvious code thrown from the y8 ecu if the VTEC solenoid oil pressure sensor is not hooked up, why do you say "barf on itsef" in reference to an unhooked oil pressure sensor? if you have vtec activation at a reasonable rpm (where the dyno decide the low lobes are not helping anymore and the high ones need to come on, mine is at 5200 for now), then why would it matter to the pont ta youd say that itll barf on itself? im curious, bcause i use my y7 ecu for the y8 and the vtec soleoid oil pressure sensor is not hookt up and the car makes 151 @7800 so far...wait till i get my fuel pump and feel safe with 9k revs.


[Modified by builthatch, 11:51 AM 3/20/2002]

 

mplex: i checked out your website, and it really looks helpful. will those be all that i'll be needing. this is my first hybrid project, and being not so mechanically inclined, i'd like to get the parts first, before going on with it. it says it took you 2 days, is it possible to be done in 1 whole day?

thanx a lot. you've been real helpful.

p.s. are the bbk t/b's more aggressive? you say your idle wavers?


[Modified by midnitekreeper, 9:15 PM 3/20/2002]


[Modified by midnitekreeper, 9:25 PM 3/20/2002]

 

do you have a more in-depth info on this...i was told i have to change it at the ecu side as well.

 

Nice Civic..............

 

you need to add wires to the y7 ecu plugs to meet with the knock sensor pins in the ecu,oil pressure sensor and activation for the vtec solenoid to meet the pins in the ecu for those functions too. youneed to use only two of the three wires in the y7 ecu plug for vtec iacv...you can swap the pins in the plug to correspond to the rite position to meet with those function in the y8 ecu.

 

THANKS!

 

i'll be getting the y8 ecu together with the swap. will that be good enough? will i need to rewire anything as builthatch has mentioned.

 

i just bought a p28 mugen chipped ecu. it from b16a2 civic si, do you think it would run fine with this swap?