How to: Progress Adjustable Rear Swaybar Endlinks---
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
How to: Adjustable Rear Swaybar Endlinks (Progress bar)---
You're probably saying; "Endlinks?, that shouldn't be hard at all!", well that's what I thought, too, but there was a little more work than I thought.
I had a nasty rear 'shock-knock' that I wasn't sure where it was coming from. I got coilovers that completely replaced all my stock stuff, so it wasn't shocks/springs and then I read it can be caused by the swaybar endlinks.
I got down there to look around and my Progress swaybar has been hitting my rear camber arm on both sides! I moved the bushings as far up as they could go but it wasn't far enough...
It even broke off the bushing...you can believe that made a nice clunking noise
...
I also wanted to replace the endlinks anyway which can also go bad and cause knocking, but all I could find were still too long...so I made one.
Parts I used were--
--27mm ES Greasable swaybar bushings--http://www.suspension.com
--4 7/16 Aurora Rod-ends--http://bakerprecision.com/auror6.htm
--Threaded Aluminum 6" rods--PN# 6516K26--http://www.mcmaster.com/
--7/16 Grade 8 hardware--http://www.homedepot.com
--Honda bolt PN# 32430, #44 on this page--http://www.hondaautomotivepart...CLAMP
You might ask "How does 7/16 hardware fit with metric hardware (14mm bolts specifically). Well, the only thing I could think of was to tightly wrap some good quality packing tape around the bolt....if someone knows a better idea, do tell.
Soooo...after getting everything together I end up with this--
No more suspension parts slamming together!
Bling-
Hope that helps somebody and if I left something out let me know. Happy New Year.
Modified by Hawkze_2.3 at 11:42 AM 1/11/2007
I had a nasty rear 'shock-knock' that I wasn't sure where it was coming from. I got coilovers that completely replaced all my stock stuff, so it wasn't shocks/springs and then I read it can be caused by the swaybar endlinks.
I got down there to look around and my Progress swaybar has been hitting my rear camber arm on both sides! I moved the bushings as far up as they could go but it wasn't far enough...
It even broke off the bushing...you can believe that made a nice clunking noise
...I also wanted to replace the endlinks anyway which can also go bad and cause knocking, but all I could find were still too long...so I made one.
Parts I used were--
--27mm ES Greasable swaybar bushings--http://www.suspension.com
--4 7/16 Aurora Rod-ends--http://bakerprecision.com/auror6.htm
--Threaded Aluminum 6" rods--PN# 6516K26--http://www.mcmaster.com/
--7/16 Grade 8 hardware--http://www.homedepot.com
--Honda bolt PN# 32430, #44 on this page--http://www.hondaautomotivepart...CLAMP
You might ask "How does 7/16 hardware fit with metric hardware (14mm bolts specifically). Well, the only thing I could think of was to tightly wrap some good quality packing tape around the bolt....if someone knows a better idea, do tell.
Soooo...after getting everything together I end up with this--
No more suspension parts slamming together!
Bling-
Hope that helps somebody and if I left something out let me know. Happy New Year.
Modified by Hawkze_2.3 at 11:42 AM 1/11/2007
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From: SLC, USA
Re: How to: Adjustable Rear Swaybar Endlinks--- (Hawkze_2.3)
Thanks, Hawke.
I recently purchased a set of Progress Endlinks & will install them when it warms back up here. This post will probably come in handy when I do it.
I recently purchased a set of Progress Endlinks & will install them when it warms back up here. This post will probably come in handy when I do it.
Thread Starter
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: How to: Adjustable Rear Swaybar Endlinks--- (2lude4u)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks, Hawke.
I recently purchased a set of Progress Endlinks & will install them when it warms back up here. This post will probably come in handy when I do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No prob, I wish I had ordered some with my bar....
I recently purchased a set of Progress Endlinks & will install them when it warms back up here. This post will probably come in handy when I do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No prob, I wish I had ordered some with my bar....
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From: buckland, ma, usa
somehow.. as i was scrolling down and saw the arrow saying "old and busted", I KNEW, that something below woudl say "new hotness".. sure enough... where did i hear that from? on tv somewhere..
sweet fab job. definatly going to bookmark this for use down the road. what coilover set is that? and why the hell do you need such long wheel studs?!
sweet fab job. definatly going to bookmark this for use down the road. what coilover set is that? and why the hell do you need such long wheel studs?!
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (shutta)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">somehow.. as i was scrolling down and saw the arrow saying "old and busted", I KNEW, that something below woudl say "new hotness".. sure enough... where did i hear that from? on tv somewhere..
sweet fab job. definatly going to bookmark this for use down the road. what coilover set is that? and why the hell do you need such long wheel studs?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, from Men In Black.....either 1 or 2.
Those are D2 coilovers. Great for the street on a daily driver.
The wheel studs are to make up for my short, stubby.....err...fingers... JK, I want to get a spacer in there sometime in the future.
sweet fab job. definatly going to bookmark this for use down the road. what coilover set is that? and why the hell do you need such long wheel studs?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, from Men In Black.....either 1 or 2.
Those are D2 coilovers.
Great for the street on a daily driver.The wheel studs are to make up for my short, stubby.....err...fingers...
JK, I want to get a spacer in there sometime in the future.
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Thread Starter
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (chitownrida)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hawkze wheres the group buy on these
lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, if you want to pay for parts & shipping I can make 'em.....of course donations will be accepted.
lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, if you want to pay for parts & shipping I can make 'em.....of course donations will be accepted.
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (chitownrida)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">27mm es bushings?? under the prelude app?? or what?? only listed as 25mm on suspension.com
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's actually listed as a 1 1/16" bushing, but it's also a 27mm. PN#-----9.5162G
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's actually listed as a 1 1/16" bushing, but it's also a 27mm. PN#-----9.5162G
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From: Guam
thats actually very similar to what i did
but i also drilled new holes on the brackets to make the bushings sit even higher
i need new heim joints tho..the progress ones get too loose easily
i also got grade8 bolts i found at napa instead of the alternator bolts
and wedged a copper "sleeve" between the bolt and the heim joint to keep it from moving because of the different sizes
but i also drilled new holes on the brackets to make the bushings sit even higher
i need new heim joints tho..the progress ones get too loose easily
i also got grade8 bolts i found at napa instead of the alternator bolts
and wedged a copper "sleeve" between the bolt and the heim joint to keep it from moving because of the different sizes
Thread Starter
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (shutta)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hwo much did that whoel setup cost you?
edit: what I mean to say is: "how much will that setup cost ME?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rod ends were about $90 shipped, threaded rods were about $5 each, ES bushings were about $20 shipped, bolts and such was probably another $20...and then shipping costs here and there. It's well worth it if your car sounds like it's going to fall apart and this will fix it.
edit: what I mean to say is: "how much will that setup cost ME?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rod ends were about $90 shipped, threaded rods were about $5 each, ES bushings were about $20 shipped, bolts and such was probably another $20...and then shipping costs here and there. It's well worth it if your car sounds like it's going to fall apart and this will fix it.
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (mkazm83)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkazm83 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are those rod ends so expensive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Teflon coated and excellent quality....they do have cheaper ones.
Teflon coated and excellent quality....they do have cheaper ones.
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (SnlpeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SnlpeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats actually very similar to what i did
but i also drilled new holes on the brackets to make the bushings sit even higher
i need new heim joints tho..the progress ones get too loose easily
i also got grade8 bolts i found at napa instead of the alternator bolts
and wedged a copper "sleeve" between the bolt and the heim joint to keep it from moving because of the different sizes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Post up some pics.
but i also drilled new holes on the brackets to make the bushings sit even higher
i need new heim joints tho..the progress ones get too loose easily
i also got grade8 bolts i found at napa instead of the alternator bolts
and wedged a copper "sleeve" between the bolt and the heim joint to keep it from moving because of the different sizes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Post up some pics.
Thread Starter
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: How to: Adjustable Rear Swaybar Endlinks--- (@ries)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by @ries »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice job man! have you experimented with the 3 different mounting holes in the sway bar... to see if it handles differently?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you! It's actually hard to notice any difference in the settings with stiff suspension...
Thank you! It's actually hard to notice any difference in the settings with stiff suspension...
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From: The Great White North eH!
Re: (Hawkze_2.3)
Why not just buy the OEM swaybar endlinks? Just curious as I have a lot of knocking noises and I had one bad endlink in the front. I have replaced one already but need to do the other.
Are the OEM one's no good¿
Are the OEM one's no good¿
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From: Further down the spiral, TX, usa
Re: (CAN97SH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CAN97SH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just buy the OEM swaybar endlinks? Just curious as I have a lot of knocking noises and I had one bad endlink in the front. I have replaced one already but need to do the other.
Are the OEM one's no good¿</TD></TR></TABLE>
The OEM endlinks are OK, but they are too long to use with my Progress swaybar...that's why that mount broke and I had clanking noises.
FYI Prothane makes poly bushings for the front endlinks.
Are the OEM one's no good¿</TD></TR></TABLE>
The OEM endlinks are OK, but they are too long to use with my Progress swaybar...that's why that mount broke and I had clanking noises.
FYI Prothane makes poly bushings for the front endlinks.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: The Great White North eH!
Re: (Hawkze_2.3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The OEM endlinks are OK, but they are too long to use with my Progress swaybar...that's why that mount broke and I had clanking noises.
FYI Prothane makes poly bushings for the front endlinks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are some beefy looking bushings
I just have OEM swaybar I assume I'm fine with the clearance...
The OEM endlinks are OK, but they are too long to use with my Progress swaybar...that's why that mount broke and I had clanking noises.
FYI Prothane makes poly bushings for the front endlinks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are some beefy looking bushings
I just have OEM swaybar I assume I'm fine with the clearance...