KYB AGX bottoming out( WHY?) at highest damper setting.
I have a SET of KYB agx on my EK with 1.5d EIBACH sportlines. Almost everytime I go over a small bump all is fine, I don't hear strut bottoming out! Now when I go over a little bump or slumped on the road I hear and feel it slamming/bottoming real hard in the wheel well? Now I never previously owned AGX's? Do these struts have some type of relief blow by at a certain rate coming up? Please inform me to this. And I do have them set at the maximum damping!
Define bottoming.
Are your tires hitting the fenderwells and you have aftermarket wheels and tires? Then you have a wheel or tire size/offset issue for your height.
Is the car hitting the bump stops and this is your bottoming? Better to hit the bump stops than to not have them and casue real damage but you should check Eibach's suggestion about whether or not to trim the bump stop. Go by the spring company's design suggesion.
Shocks don't hold the car up and likely aren't the problem unless they have totally failed and are offering no real resistance to motion. If the shocks are failed, the handling of the car should be off and it will likely continue oscillating over bug bumps.
Are your tires hitting the fenderwells and you have aftermarket wheels and tires? Then you have a wheel or tire size/offset issue for your height.
Is the car hitting the bump stops and this is your bottoming? Better to hit the bump stops than to not have them and casue real damage but you should check Eibach's suggestion about whether or not to trim the bump stop. Go by the spring company's design suggesion.
Shocks don't hold the car up and likely aren't the problem unless they have totally failed and are offering no real resistance to motion. If the shocks are failed, the handling of the car should be off and it will likely continue oscillating over bug bumps.
Yes, both bump stops are installed! Im currently on 205 /16inch rims, The reason I said it was bottoming out was because of the evident wear or dent I saw when looking at the shock tower.Looking at the passenger side shock tower I see a side of the upper A arm indented and convexed outward looking from the top view, like the A arm struck the top shock tower frame.
I know the resistance on the shock is set a its highest setting because car feel real stiff! Feeling the difference, but hitting the bug bumps gives me no great feeling of it being in good condition!
Im going to take it off and inspect it!
I know the resistance on the shock is set a its highest setting because car feel real stiff! Feeling the difference, but hitting the bug bumps gives me no great feeling of it being in good condition!
Im going to take it off and inspect it!
Definintely get a good look at it and you might get some real height measurements from the car. I don't understand how a car set to a 1.5 drop can hit the control arm into the shock tower. The AGXs have a welded spring perch in one location so that shouldn't change things if theya re right for the car.
Eibachs are a well respected and well engineered spring so the right parts installed right should put you at the right heights. Are you sure that you have the springs for your correct chassis (not EF on EG or something)? When you have it apart, you might write downt he part numbers on the springs and them confirm them with vtecvoodoo. While youa re at it, recheck the part numbers on your KYBS to make sure they don't go to another chassis.
Eibachs are a well respected and well engineered spring so the right parts installed right should put you at the right heights. Are you sure that you have the springs for your correct chassis (not EF on EG or something)? When you have it apart, you might write downt he part numbers on the springs and them confirm them with vtecvoodoo. While youa re at it, recheck the part numbers on your KYBS to make sure they don't go to another chassis.
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Good looking out, Well 2morrow I'll definetly write down the part #'s.Also getting a new AGX strut.Will, see! >
I don't understand how a car set to a 1.5 drop can hit the control arm into the shock tower?? CRX lee---I just remembered that its 1.75, dude! Well, like you said part #'s will confirm problem if thats the case!
I don't understand how a car set to a 1.5 drop can hit the control arm into the shock tower?? CRX lee---I just remembered that its 1.75, dude! Well, like you said part #'s will confirm problem if thats the case!
You said the bumpstops are installed, but are they cut? Eibach springs come with a chart depending on application on how much you have to cut your bumpstops. I have the same setup on my EG. Try and contact Eibach for another copy of the sheet if you don thave yours. if you still cant get it PM me and ill dig it out of the attic.
Both bumstops are installed. They are in full length, not cut. I installed the new struts and it still slams real hard hitting a bump! WTF, IM thinking its because of the sportlines I probably have upgrade to a higher spring setting. IM currently on 320 sporlines. Should I go with 450 or 500 spring rate setting for street and road course use?
Struts are brand NEW, problem still accurs after changing and checking struts/spring combo! WTF. IM coming to the conclusion about the spring is too weak for my setup! IM currently swapped and I personally think eibach made the sportlines for a base D-series motor setup kept original. That's my point on it! anyone has a better point of view?
have the same problem.. bought agx with GC coils for my mitsu and everytime goin over a bump or a pothole.. its like BAM.. cutting the bump stops wil solve it or?..sorry noob at suspension
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said the bumpstops are installed, but are they cut? Eibach springs come with a chart depending on application on how much you have to cut your bumpstops. </TD></TR></TABLE>
if they're full length then that's the problem. Cut them
if they're full length then that's the problem. Cut them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep. call eibach and ask them how much you need to cut your bumpstops: 951.256.8300</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the same thing applies to if i have ground control coils?...
is the same thing applies to if i have ground control coils?...
I have my bump stops cut down to about 1" total length with my GC's. I don't bottoom out, but if I start to I'll either get the GC extended top hats, or do the shock fork trick. I think cutting them down to 1" is about as far as you should go before there is the risk of internal shock damage. If you're bottoming out still you have to fix the problem one way or another (higher rates, higher ride height, extended top hats, etc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have my bump stops cut down to about 1" total length with my GC's. I don't bottoom out, but if I start to I'll either get the GC extended top hats, or do the shock fork trick. I think cutting them down to 1" is about as far as you should go before there is the risk of internal shock damage. If you're bottoming out still you have to fix the problem one way or another (higher rates, higher ride height, extended top hats, etc)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the heads up, when I took them apart I saw that they were full lengths, which is about 1-1/4 long(i think)! Thanks for the #, because Im definetly gonna call.If that still continues than for sure is to get higher spring rates!
Thanks for the heads up, when I took them apart I saw that they were full lengths, which is about 1-1/4 long(i think)! Thanks for the #, because Im definetly gonna call.If that still continues than for sure is to get higher spring rates!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have my bump stops cut down to about 1" total length with my GC's. I don't bottoom out, but if I start to I'll either get the GC extended top hats, or do the shock fork trick. I think cutting them down to 1" is about as far as you should go before there is the risk of internal shock damage. If you're bottoming out still you have to fix the problem one way or another (higher rates, higher ride height, extended top hats, etc)</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats the shock fork trick?
whats the shock fork trick?




