NSX Brakes
I have been doing some searching and have found that everyon says the 91 - 93 NSX Brakes bolt right up to our preludes. What is the big difference in later model NSX Brakes? I have a set of 97 NSX Brakes. Will they work on my 92 4WS?
Keep your stock braking components...and just replace your brake pads and fluid. Thats all you need to do. Upgrading just the front brakes will screw up your stock brake bias.
The JUN prelude runs stock brakes...and runs upgraded pads and fluid.
I run upgraded pads and fluid....and my car does great.
The JUN prelude runs stock brakes...and runs upgraded pads and fluid.
I run upgraded pads and fluid....and my car does great.
FYI, I don't remember the break off point if what you have is correct then I guess it's 94, but earlier NSX calipers will work easily with prelude 11" rotors. The later model NSX calipers are made for larger diameter & thickness rotors, making them less compatible with prelude 11" rotors.
The jump from 'S' & 'SI' 10" rotors to the 11" rotors does provide much better braking. The NSX two piston will give slightly better braking with less fade. They are heavy though. When I upgrade I'll be using some aluminum calipers to reduce unsprung weight. Just my 2 cents.
The jump from 'S' & 'SI' 10" rotors to the 11" rotors does provide much better braking. The NSX two piston will give slightly better braking with less fade. They are heavy though. When I upgrade I'll be using some aluminum calipers to reduce unsprung weight. Just my 2 cents.
I was under the impression that VTEC Rotos from 93 - 96 were a larger diameter like 10.8 inches. This makling the jump not so bad. As for the bias, I am fully aware of that. Thank you
That's right 4th & 5th gen vtec rotors are basically 11". Like I said with a little clarification.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The jump from 'S' & 'SI' 10" rotors to the 11" Vtec rotors does provide much better braking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll be happy with the improvement. Then if you feel you need more than that you can look into other options.
P.S. I'll be selling my vtec calipers & brackets shortly if anyone needs them (off of a 2000 lude). I am upgrading to some AEM 4pot calipers & don't need them anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The jump from 'S' & 'SI' 10" rotors to the 11" Vtec rotors does provide much better braking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll be happy with the improvement. Then if you feel you need more than that you can look into other options.
P.S. I'll be selling my vtec calipers & brackets shortly if anyone needs them (off of a 2000 lude). I am upgrading to some AEM 4pot calipers & don't need them anymore.
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Just as an FYI, Legend calipers are the same as NSX calipers, just without the bling.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lOOkatme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep your stock braking components...and just replace your brake pads and fluid. Thats all you need to do. Upgrading just the front brakes will screw up your stock brake bias.
The JUN prelude runs stock brakes...and runs upgraded pads and fluid.
I run upgraded pads and fluid....and my car does great.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, this is VERY true. However, there are many ricers out there who feel the need to "upgrade" components to feel better about themselves, and to brag to their buddies about their mods. That is something we will never be able to get rid of.
Glad to see there are a few Honda tuners out there with some sense though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lOOkatme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep your stock braking components...and just replace your brake pads and fluid. Thats all you need to do. Upgrading just the front brakes will screw up your stock brake bias.
The JUN prelude runs stock brakes...and runs upgraded pads and fluid.
I run upgraded pads and fluid....and my car does great.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, this is VERY true. However, there are many ricers out there who feel the need to "upgrade" components to feel better about themselves, and to brag to their buddies about their mods. That is something we will never be able to get rid of.
Glad to see there are a few Honda tuners out there with some sense though.
Yeah. 
I'm looking for a rear bracket for my 4th gen....the body is an Si non vtec. If anyone has one let me know.
One of my damn sliders (where the caliper bolts on) is seized. It won't move for ****. Tried pb blaster and everything. I guess the grease came out the boot or something.

I'm looking for a rear bracket for my 4th gen....the body is an Si non vtec. If anyone has one let me know.
One of my damn sliders (where the caliper bolts on) is seized. It won't move for ****. Tried pb blaster and everything. I guess the grease came out the boot or something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah. :thumbup
One of my damn sliders (where the caliper bolts on) is seized. It won't move for ****. Tried pb blaster and everything. I guess the grease came out the boot or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep one of my slidepins siezed up in the rear drivers side caliper and had to use a torch to get that **** out, heated it up and got some plyers and wiggle that **** back and forth, pulling it out at the same time. Always grease the slide pins whenever you change/check your brakes.
Im currently using ebc green stuff pads and they work pretty good with my stock size brembos
One of my damn sliders (where the caliper bolts on) is seized. It won't move for ****. Tried pb blaster and everything. I guess the grease came out the boot or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep one of my slidepins siezed up in the rear drivers side caliper and had to use a torch to get that **** out, heated it up and got some plyers and wiggle that **** back and forth, pulling it out at the same time. Always grease the slide pins whenever you change/check your brakes.
Im currently using ebc green stuff pads and they work pretty good with my stock size brembos
Hm. A torch eh.............
Hm..............good idea. I called the dealership - because I was to buy a new unit - they said it doesn't sell seperate from the caliper. You have to buy the entire thing - which costs like $150 from them.........haha. I bought new bolts and sliders - just trying to replace.
What kind of grease do you recommend?.......i'm going to heat that **** up tomorrow and try.
Also, does the boot just pull off? I don't want to heat it with the boot still there of course
Hm..............good idea. I called the dealership - because I was to buy a new unit - they said it doesn't sell seperate from the caliper. You have to buy the entire thing - which costs like $150 from them.........haha. I bought new bolts and sliders - just trying to replace.
What kind of grease do you recommend?.......i'm going to heat that **** up tomorrow and try.
Also, does the boot just pull off? I don't want to heat it with the boot still there of course
I removed the caliper from the car and put it in a vise, yep just pull the rubber boots off, you can use synthetic disc brake grease from any parts store, dont heat the slidepin, you want to heat the caliper itself so it will expand and allow you to pull the pin out.
I already took it off from the caliper. I just have the bracket by itself. I have new pins for it w/ new bolts for the caliper.
So, i should be able to pull the boot off the pin somehow?
So, i should be able to pull the boot off the pin somehow?
ah damn. I forgot all about you. Man, I was supposed to get to the post office today anyway. Hey, remind me tomorrow - before 3pm......thats when i get off work. I'll make sure to get that out to you. Promise. uh......also - send your address to me once again - to alex_velociti@yahoo.com thanks.
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