i have a 98 lude and was lookin on ebay and they have alot of strut bars for a very cheap price! has anyone ever tried these out b4 and if so how do they work???

 

If it seems to good to be true then it probably is...

Anyhow...I got the Megan Racing Strut Bar for my 4th gen off EBay and it fit perfect.

 

I got the $.99 strut bar with $19 shipping and it fit perfectly. Just needed to take out those lock nuts and then twist the studs down so it was short enough to fit. Made a noticeable difference in handling

 

i heard that they bend over time, is that true???

 

All strut bars are going to be about the same unless you really DRIVE your car (i.e. AutoX)

 

Yeah. I was wondering if anyone can actually tell the difference in the strut bars. I've been delaying the purchasing of these for that reason. I don't see how they would alter vehicle handling. If someone could explain the "strut bar" theory - that would be great.

I know a little about it - but i want someone to go in depth with it.

 

i've had an eBay front strut bar in my for the last 3 years and recently upgraded to a DC Sports strut bar because i got a good deal on one. I didn't notice any difference in the handling between the two strut bars. I did however noticed that difference between stock and the eBay strut bar; better handling and stability.

 

wack

 

haha I haven't heard that word in such a long time. I feel old now.

 

I've been debating between name brand and cheap ebay strut bars. Now that other people said there's no difference unless your really driving in like AutoX I'm gonna go order myself an ebay one.

 

i have both ebay fronts n backs on my 4g. both fit just fine, n like previously stated...i did notice some difference, but im sure its nothin compared to wut it would be like if i autox

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by john d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wack</TD></TR></TABLE>

word

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rawNAprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have both ebay fronts n backs on my 4g. both fit just fine, n like previously stated...i did notice some difference, but im sure its nothin compared to wut it would be like if i autox</TD></TR></TABLE>

when auto-x'ing or on track i didn't notice **** w/ a strut bar on.

 

hey man i have no idea...ive never done it before, i just repeated wut some1 else said about feelin it more when they auto x

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sup gurl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All strut bars are going to be about the same unless you really DRIVE your car (i.e. AutoX)</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when auto-x'ing or on track i didn't notice **** w/ a strut bar on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It all depends on what kind of strut bar you get. The hinged ones are worthless.

I noticed a difference with my Neuspeed non-hinged strat bar on the track. In fact, I thought it was worthless so I took it off. After one day at the DE, I put it on for the next. It is worth it. And if any of you know me well enough, I don't just slap anything on my car or act like parts work when they don't.

 

not saying that i'm right, and that everyone is wrong--just saying that $ for $, there are better places to spend your money.

until you own a progress 24mm rear sway, spending money on a strut bar is a waste of money!

 

Any "hinged" strut bars are completely useless..

Nuespeed is much better and attaches at the correct points on the car..

Either way, I think they are waste of money..

 

Well.

I think this is a rock-paper-scissors debate also.

*Paper*

 

If you want to notice a "difference in handling" you should look into sway bars. THEN after the fact, strut bars are good compliments to that.

 

I'm getting a strong feeling that half of the comments made in this thread are based on hear-say and not actual experience.

 

Can someone explain the difference between a sway bar and a lower tie bar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Can someone explain the difference between a sway bar and a lower tie bar?</TD></TR></TABLE>

swaybar binds one side of the suspension to the other by use of a torsional spring. this spring prevents the inside of the car from lifting in a corner, thereby reducing sway/body roll.

a tie bar supposedly reduces deflections in the subframe during cornering by reinforcing the subframe to the other side of the subframe. while i doubt that the subframe is really deflecting all that much, esp in street driving of any kind, doing this makes more sense than using a strut tower bar, since if there are theoretical deflections in the subframe, they would have a more marked effect on dynamic camber, toe, and other alignment issues.

a strut tower bar supposedly prevents the chassis from deflecting in a corner by reinforcing the "strut towers." however, since we drive cars that don't use strut suspensions, and the shock towers are unloaded (the UCA's and the UCA pickup points are where the load is), deflections in the shock tower seem to me to be non-existent. Also, since dynamic alignment settings are determined by the UCA and the rest of the suspension geometry, slight deflections in the strut tower aren't really impacting the way the car handles very much at all.

The way i see strut towers is this: if you enter a corner with any suspension travel (which is usually the case) the deflection of the chassis is going to be minimal since the springs will compress/decompress way before the metal starts to deflect. unless you're running really really stiff spring rates and a real big sway bar setup (basically a ton of roll resistance), r-comps, and know how to drive, i doubt that there's any reason to run a STB or those really stupid Z-X-Y-M-T drycleaner clothes hanging "pillar bars". and if you had all of those things, you'd be better off with a full cage anyway...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swaybar binds one side of the suspension to the other by use of a torsional spring. this spring prevents the inside of the car from lifting in a corner, thereby reducing sway/body roll.

a tie bar supposedly reduces deflections in the subframe during cornering by reinforcing the subframe to the other side of the subframe. while i doubt that the subframe is really deflecting all that much, esp in street driving of any kind, doing this makes more sense than using a strut tower bar, since if there are theoretical deflections in the subframe, they would have a more marked effect on dynamic camber, toe, and other alignment issues.

a strut tower bar supposedly prevents the chassis from deflecting in a corner by reinforcing the "strut towers." however, since we drive cars that don't use strut suspensions, and the shock towers are unloaded (the UCA's and the UCA pickup points are where the load is), deflections in the shock tower seem to me to be non-existent. Also, since dynamic alignment settings are determined by the UCA and the rest of the suspension geometry, slight deflections in the strut tower aren't really impacting the way the car handles very much at all.

The way i see strut towers is this: if you enter a corner with any suspension travel (which is usually the case) the deflection of the chassis is going to be minimal since the springs will compress/decompress way before the metal starts to deflect. unless you're running really really stiff spring rates and a real big sway bar setup (basically a ton of roll resistance), r-comps, and know how to drive, i doubt that there's any reason to run a STB or those really stupid Z-X-Y-M-T drycleaner clothes hanging "pillar bars". and if you had all of those things, you'd be better off with a full cage anyway... </TD></TR></TABLE>

That did help me . I've asked this before: why isn't there a suspension sticky in the faq section about what's effective for what apps, or along those lines, etc?

 

I bought a front strut bar off someone here, it was a no name brand and that **** sucked, it didn't even fit. oh well it was only $20