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Camber kit problem: Control arm relocater vs. Ball joint

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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #1  
tonysaur's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX, US
Default Camber kit problem: Control arm relocater vs. Ball joint

Ok I have a 4th gen lude running on H&R sport springs and tokico illumina shocks. I currently have ball joint camber kits installed to correct my front cambers by 1.5 degrees, problem is, the ball joint adjuster bolts are slamming against the inside of my strut tower alot, causing me to have less suspension travel and bottoming out often. I was told I can drill a big hole in my strut tower to fix this, but I think that is pretty dangerous and is irreversable. I was thinking about going with the control arm ajusters that move the arm further out, I heard the drawback to these though is they make your control arm slam against your wheel well. The control arms i might be getting are SPC so they should be high quality and shouldn't break on me. but since I need to adjust my camber to 1.5 degrees out, I was wondering where the border line of adjustment is so that your control arms don't hit the wheel well. Like say for example "any adjustments up to 2 degrees you will clear the wheel wells, anything over 2 degrees will cause your wheel wells to get hit"(something like that). Or if you don't know how much your camber had to be adjusted to get zero degrees, just tell me your suspension setup and how low you lowered your car, and whether or not your control arms hit your wheel wells.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 02:05 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: Camber kit problem: Control arm relocater vs. Ball joint (tonysaur)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tonysaur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I have a 4th gen lude running on H&R sport springs and tokico illumina shocks. I currently have ball joint camber kits installed to correct my front cambers by 1.5 degrees, problem is, the ball joint adjuster bolts are slamming against the inside of my strut tower alot, causing me to have less suspension travel and bottoming out often. I was told I can drill a big hole in my strut tower to fix this, but I think that is pretty dangerous and is irreversable. I was thinking about going with the control arm ajusters that move the arm further out, I heard the drawback to these though is they make your control arm slam against your wheel well. The control arms i might be getting are SPC so they should be high quality and shouldn't break on me. but since I need to adjust my camber to 1.5 degrees out, I was wondering where the border line of adjustment is so that your control arms don't hit the wheel well. Like say for example "any adjustments up to 2 degrees you will clear the wheel wells, anything over 2 degrees will cause your wheel wells to get hit"(something like that). Or if you don't know how much your camber had to be adjusted to get zero degrees, just tell me your suspension setup and how low you lowered your car, and whether or not your control arms hit your wheel wells.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, you can solve your problem by going back to OEM control arms, and running some negative camber. unless there's a reason that you want to run 0 camber, which you actually don't.

camber doesn't kill tires, toe does. 1.5 degrees of camber is nothing...

if you still want to throw money at it, get the anchor bolts, adjust up to 2 degrees, and live with whatever negative camber you have left.

i've run anywhere from -1.5 to -2.3 degrees of camber w/ no accelerated wear...
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