Installed traction bars and now i have an alignment question...
Since it was a pretty decent day here, i figured i'd throw on the FR traction bars i just picked up. Here's a few pics because i know everybody loves em:




Now my question is. How much positive caster needs to be dialed in? Is there some sort of recommended guidelines or general rule to follow?
I'm fairly competent when it comes to what camber and toe settings to run, but i have no idea what to tell an alignment shop when it comes to caster...




Now my question is. How much positive caster needs to be dialed in? Is there some sort of recommended guidelines or general rule to follow?
I'm fairly competent when it comes to what camber and toe settings to run, but i have no idea what to tell an alignment shop when it comes to caster...
Just add as much as you can within reason. Then redo your camber and toe settings. You wont need as much camber. Your toe will be thrown off. I added caster with a washer type kit between the two pieces of the LCA. You can't really add so much that the steering gets too heavy (especially with PS), but you'll know when you're too far if the front of the front wheels hit the front inside of your fenders (that amount of adjustment not possible with a traction bar or washers alone). Your car isn't "slammed", right? If it's 2 inches or more of drop, then sell that traction bar for a show piece you can actually see outside of pics on the internet.
That's fine for "street". If you're autoXing, you should be basing your adjustments on tire temps and not internet advice.
That's fine for "street". If you're autoXing, you should be basing your adjustments on tire temps and not internet advice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just add as much as you can within reason. Then redo your camber and toe settings. You wont need as much camber. Your toe will be thrown off. I added caster with a washer type kit between the two pieces of the LCA. You can't really add so much that the steering gets too heavy (especially with PS), but you'll know when you're too far if the front of the front wheels hit the front inside of your fenders (that amount of adjustment not possible with a traction bar or washers alone). Your car isn't "slammed", right? If it's 2 inches or more of drop, then sell that traction bar for a show piece you can actually see outside of pics on the internet.
That's fine for "street". If you're autoXing, you should be basing your adjustments on tire temps and not internet advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Appreciate the advice. So there are no "set" specs as to what they should be adjusted to?
That's fine for "street". If you're autoXing, you should be basing your adjustments on tire temps and not internet advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Appreciate the advice. So there are no "set" specs as to what they should be adjusted to?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not adjust to the factory wheelbase?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's kinda what i'm trying to figure out. All i have ever read about is how they are supposed to be adjusted to a positive caster position, but there is never any info on how much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this some drag racing trick? im unfamiliar with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not entirely sure. These will be used on the dragstrip and autoX course. I wouldn't mind getting some opinions from both camps.
That's kinda what i'm trying to figure out. All i have ever read about is how they are supposed to be adjusted to a positive caster position, but there is never any info on how much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this some drag racing trick? im unfamiliar with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not entirely sure. These will be used on the dragstrip and autoX course. I wouldn't mind getting some opinions from both camps.
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Have the caster aligined to factory specs. My understanding of a traction bar is that it keeps the caster angles constant during acceleration, and theoretically braking. Although you could adjust the caster angles with them, I would stick with the factory settings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra da »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a k20 in it
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i noticed it too
</TD></TR></TABLE>i noticed it too
not to thread jack, but did not want to start a new post... do these help with Auto-X, or is it only to help with straight line racing...?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i noticed it too</TD></TR></TABLE>
i searched he just sold a rsx types intake manifold.
dude show us more pics of the motor and car were interested now the header is definatly on the wrong side.
i searched he just sold a rsx types intake manifold.
dude show us more pics of the motor and car were interested now the header is definatly on the wrong side.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13browe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i searched he just sold a rsx types intake manifold.
dude show us more pics of the motor and car were interested now the header is definatly on the wrong side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
stop whoring his thread, this is the SUSPENSION forum
i searched he just sold a rsx types intake manifold.
dude show us more pics of the motor and car were interested now the header is definatly on the wrong side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>stop whoring his thread, this is the SUSPENSION forum
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