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Modified by StolenTeg at 10:48 PM 11/11/2007

 

We have no idea without some pics, show us what problem your having.

Also you should not have a exhaust leak with only one bolt/nut off unless the flange is very warped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. The one is inches properly rethread it a little bit and now the mm wont tighten like it should?</TD></TR></TABLE>
what

 

Umm i dont think a picture will do much, exhaust gases leak from the head to the turbo manifold between cylinder 2 and 3 because i am unable to tighten those down properly. What im asking is, what should i do? rethread the exhaust manifold bolt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ksSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thread pattern of inches is different them mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Umm i dont think a picture will do much, exhaust gases leak from the head to the turbo manifold between cylinder 2 and 3 because i am unable to tighten those down properly. What im asking is, what should i do? rethread the exhaust manifold bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A picture would help tons because your not speaking english and are doing a horrible job of describing the problem. Take a picture of your problem, people will tell you what to do, and your problem will be fixed.

 

I think what he's saying is that he used some
SAE bolts instead of metric, so now he'll have to helicoil or maybe just tap the buggered up holes to SAE.

 

 

Take out the nuts and studs your having problems with and use bolts with the same pitch and lock washers.

 

what???? Sounds like you need to tap and use some new bolts or studs.

 

I belive the thread pattern got messed up, since i use a bolt that not the same thread pattern.

 

Weld something to the manifold to close that gap if you want to be cheap.....

English also owns you my son.

 

Allow me to translate.

"I used the wrong thread on my fasteners and stripped the **** out of the head. Now the right bolts won't tighten, they just spin, almost as if I stripped the **** out of the head. Now I need to know what I can do so that the head isn't stripped to **** anymore so I can use the right bolts."

 

lol

 

Allow me to translate.
"I used the wrong thread on my fasteners and stripped the **** out of the head. Now the right bolts won't tighten, they just spin, almost as if I stripped the **** out of the head. Now I need to know what I can do so that the head isn't stripped to **** anymore so I can use the right bolts."


Is'nt that what I said?

 

simple fix for this, but im sure he doesnt want to hear it.............

either pull it all off and tap the head for new bolts, if you are good with a tap and die set, but im pretty sure that if you are having this much trouble conveying your problem then you will need to pull the head and take it to a shop, or have someone come over who can do the work

 

I ended up having to retap three of mine and use bigger studs... In order to fit the bigger studs I also had to drill some of the holes in the manifold to fit the larger studs. It was a bit nerve recking to tap into the head (Didn't want to f--- it up), but seems to be holding relatively well.
As a side note, I used to use an sfp manifold and the actual flange on the manifold was extremely warped after only using it for a few months (maybe causing my original studs to pull out?) so check your manifold to make sure the surface is straight. Now I use an inline pro ss and it is a much better product for a daily driver. The flange on the inline pro is much thicker and should hopefully not warm as the sfp did. About the only downfall I can think of with ine inline pro is the additional weight (a bit on the porky side for a manifold).
Either way I would reccomend taking the manifold off, checking if its straight (have it machined if not), tapping the stripped holes and possibly enlarging the relative holes in the manifold itself. Good luck and make sure you double check everything before you tap the hole (is it straight? have you tapped a hole before?- maybe practice on something else first etc). Good luck and Happy Holidays!

 

did it tighten down properly w/the STD size bolts when you used it? if it did, why not just switch over to using the STD size bolts and call it a day??

 

Pull out all the studs and replace it. I dont think he meant that the female threads on the head are fucked. I think he used the wrong nuts then crossed thread the studs itself.

My recommendation is for you to take the manifold off and replace the studs or just use longer bolts.

REMEMBER to tighten them in the proper order as much as possible to avoid warping the exhaust flange..........

 

All the stud are fine, it just two or three bolt is the problem

 

you guys smoke the crack. i cant believe someone with this loose a grip on english mananged to install a turbo.

anyhow, you need to retap the holes in your head. if im understanding you correctly. you need to use a heli-coil or wurth timesert to repair the damaged threads in the head. otherwise just screw the standard "inch" studs back in and use those.. if they tighten properly. also remove the turbo manifold. take it to a machine shop and have them surface "flatten out" the gasket surface where it bolts to the head.

teh confusing part is you say the studs are fine. but the bolts are messed up. but uhh... stud and bolts are the same thing, just one you put a nut on, the other you tighten directly.

 

What you need to do is take the manifold off and run a tap down the bolt holes to fix the threads cus they are pritty deep , and then replace the studs with allen head metric bolts , and use a MrGasket part# 7230 and you should not have any leaks.

 

in the future, if the bolt isnt tightening down very well, its probably the wrong thread pitch. dont just crank it down like you obviously did. you must not do much work on cars if you cant tell when you're cross threading something

 

 

You have to pull off the manifold and retap the threads. Don't try to take any shortcuts. A Helicoil kit would set you about $20 and your threads would be better than it came from the factory.