Alright I installed my turbo last night on my car. I have a B18c with a custom kit that I pieced together myself. So I start the car up and what happens?

The car revs by itself from 1K to 3K and then back, over and over. I saw this same problem on here recently and did all of the steps to try to fix it.

1 I checked the FITV on the throttle body, I don't have one, my manual says only autotranny intgeras have one.

2 I cleaned the IAT sensor, the car reved to 2700ish and held there, but then we disconnected the battery and tried again it and went back to reving up and down so no luck there.

3 Unplugged the IAC sensor while it was running, saw no difference and no CEL

4 Unglugged TPS sensor while it was running, idle droped to 1K, but we recieved a CEL
Is this becuase another sensor was telling the TPS to run like that and once it was unplugged it stopped? thats a idea

I drove the car to get the exhuast done and it drove alright except for the idle.
But when i went to drive it again after testing the sensors I know have a vaccum leak. It still revs from 1-3 but when i put load on it to drive it just dies on me.

5 Found massive vaccum leak from injectors. Would this cause it to run like that?
I have RC550 injectors and the rubber donut rings that go into the head don't really fit over injector like the stock ones did. So I got them on there and tightened the rail down, but now its leaking.


ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, OR THERE MAY BE A CUSTOM TURBO KIT UP FOR SALE REAL SOON!! (this is my DD and i need it to me reliable)

 

sounds like a bad vacumm leak....fix the leaks and you should be good to go

 

so the leak will cause the engine to rev from 1k to 3k like that?

 

let me guess, hondata or uberdata right? the obd1 ecu has problems sometimes controlling the iacv

 

you have to fix vav leaks. what kind of management are you running? i had the same problem when I stared up my turbo project. The ignition maps near idle where not very smooth; I was rich like 12:1, and my throttle position sensor was not set to 0%. I fixed these issues and my idle is nice now.

 

Crome, I'm running a basemap right now that someone on HT made me. This is just till I get it to a tuner.

 

I would say my problem is worse than "not that smooth" It does run a little bumpy, but jumping from 1-3K then back over and over?

How do you set your TPS to 0%. I was going to swap it with the one from my old motor which is still laying around but it was held in there with what looks like rivits.

I looked at my manual to see the removal procedures and said " TPS is an intergral part of the throttle body" or something and need to be replaced with the throttle body.

 

I know this will sound weird but check your throttle cable, I installed a neuspeed front upper strut bar yesterday and it was wrapped the wrong way around the bar and it would rev just like you describe, and at one point it was holding at 3k. Thats only if you have fixxed the vac. leaks and get no improvement

 

i had a rubber nipple pop off during boost...like the size of a dime...it caused my motor to rev un controlably and would act like its gonna die when i stepped on the gas at first....i pluged the leak no problems since

 

throttle cable is A ok

 

ok so looks like the vaccum leak is the culprit, anyone else?

 

and how do you get rc550's to fit in the gsr head, intake manifold?

 

i have the rc 750's..they came with new orings.....i know if you call rc u can tell them what u have and u can buy what u need.....a temporary fix is to drill out the stock orings with a uni-bit....good luck

 

that could work and i may have to try that for now, I just called RC and they are closed for the night. So Ill call them up on monday.

 

Is your motor obd1 or obd2? If it's obd2, you need to dissconect the EVAP purge Solenoid on top of the Intake Manifold. Unplug the Vac line that connects to the Black Charcoal Canister and plug it up at the purge solenoid. This should cure the irratic idle.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=613045

 

Again you need to fix the vacuum leaks before you can do anything. Your computer will basically freak out, its trying to control your idle but can’t because its unable to meter the amount of air getting into the engine. I’m not really understanding what your talking about with your injectors. If the o-rings are too fat then sand them out a little bit on the inside I used a dermal barrel sander with a regular drill. Heres a link http://www.homemadeturbo.com/t...ors/
If you look at the ignition maps on the low ignition, around 700-1000 the number are pretty drastic at least it was on the p30 map that comes with crome that I use to create my basemap. Do you have a wideband? They are very much necessary if you want to tune on your own. To set the throttle body you can cut some slots in the tops of the stock “rivet looking” screws and use a flat head screw driver to remove them and replace them with regular screws. To make sure its set at 0% you can just look at the tuner table if you have crome pro or if not just set the voltage as per the helms manual

 

The RC's o-rings do not need to be sanded to fit. They made that design on purpose, they are not meant to go around the base of the injector, they are to be put in the intake manifold and the injectors slowly tightened down till they sit snug on top of the base rubber grommet. Both my RC 550's and 750's have to be done this way and I have no problems.

 

it is definatley the vacuum leak from the rc's. i turbo'ed my gs-r a few weeks ago. and had zero problems with idle while running dsm450's. after coming across some rc's for a steal i installed them and noticed they didn't seat properly. but after doing some searching on here i found that this is normal and just tightned the crap out of them, but still had the bouncy idle. after taking them apart the other day, i found that they hadn't seated correctly

 

ur injector grommets are leaking i bet, they're probably sucking in air cause they are not seated right.

 

Alright sounds good guys. Off to grandma's for the day, but I can't wait to get home for a Christmas eve turbo session tonight when I get home. Maybe Santa will bring me some luck!

 

i agree on the vac leak. a vac leak will cause the idle to bounce. and if your TPS is no good the idle will bounce drastically like ur describing. my friend had the same problem with his TPS.

 

Use aq dremel tool and round the injector seats until it is a snug fit, just like the guys who run DSM injectors do—or wait untilk you can talk to RC to see if they can get you different seats. Try that, then by process of elimination see if everything is ok. Get that out of the way, the you can try other things to see if they are the culprit.

 

Fix vacuum leaks.

Use dremel or die grinder [something to grind them down a bit] to size the seals to what you need. Best way to do this is to grind them narrower (kind of like a cone) where they go into the Intake manifold.. this way they are almost sure to get a good seal. Make sure to clean the seals with parts/carb cleaner and a rag after you're done modifying them.

Get any Honda manual and set the TPS correctly.. sounds super messed up.

After all that is done, search on how to correctly set idle (unplug IACV, set to ~700 via idle screw, plug IACV back in).

If you can't get it to idle right, check the FITV, then try to reset the idle.

If you are throwing any CELs, stop and post them up here and we'll see if we can diagnose the problem.

 

yeah man make sure you fix those vaccum leaks first.

 

no CELs, honda manual says to get a new throttle body, can't replace the TPS sensor