If I buy skunk2 stage 3 PRO I need Retainers PRO and Valvesprings PRO??now I have skunk2 Retainers and Valvesprings don't version PRO ,it will be good??
HELP

 

E-mail Skunk2 racing.

 

dont think u need to upgrade i have "old" if thats wa u want to call it Sk2 springs and retainers with Sk2 PS stage 2 cams no problem

 

Nope i doubt it

 

u SHOULD be fine, but i would email to make sure

 

I call,I need change Valvesprings PRO when I want put stage 3 PRO
Can you test dyno stage 3 VS atage 3 PRO

 

what are both specs?

 

Why do I have a bad feeling you're in way over your head?

 

dude i cant understand what you are typing. But as far as what valve springs and retainers to use with skunk2 pro 3s, just email skunk2, im pretty sure you can use your old ones. But then again im also very sure skunk2 might try to sell you their new "Pro series" to work with their new cams. Its all marketing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VNTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude i cant understand what you are typing. But as far as what valve springs and retainers to use with skunk2 pro 3s, just email skunk2, im pretty sure you can use your old ones. But then again im also very sure skunk2 might try to sell you their new "Pro series" to work with their new cams. Its all marketing.</TD></TR></TABLE> so u are saying you're pretty sure they will work.. come on if u dont know the answer for sure dont reply..

haha

use what is recomended by skunk2.... so who is going to degree these cams in for you?? im assuming you understand the importance of this when dealing with a cam of this nature... well good luck to u...

shawn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> so u are saying you're pretty sure they will work.. come on if u dont know the answer for sure dont reply..

haha

use what is recomended by skunk2.... so who is going to degree these cams in for you?? im assuming you understand the importance of this when dealing with a cam of this nature... well good luck to u...

shawn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im just letting you know between the profiles of the skunk2 st3s and the pro3s there isnt that much significant change that would deem the older skunk2 valve train unusable. Obviously if he is going to be running a type of cam this big hopefully he should know what hes in for and what type of particular set up these cams will work with.

Anyways, doesnt look like you know much either, i told him to check with skunk2 and gave him my opinion due to the fact that theyre all skunk2 products. He wasnt asking about degreeing, looks like you wasted time posting a reply yourself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VNTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im just letting you know between the profiles of the skunk2 st3s and the pro3s there isnt that much significant change that would deem the older skunk2 valve train unusable. Obviously if he is going to be running a type of cam this big hopefully he should know what hes in for and what type of particular set up these cams will work with.

Anyways, doesnt look like you know much either, i told him to check with skunk2 and gave him my opinion due to the fact that theyre all skunk2 products. He wasnt asking about degreeing, looks like you wasted time posting a reply yourself </TD></TR></TABLE>

well first off if he knew what he was in for he wouldnt be asking such a vague question... giving him and answer that you say u are pretty sure of isnt the right thing to do.. he had already called skunk2 and they told him he needed to upgrade.. you said "skunk2 might try to sell you their new "Pro series" to work with their new cams. Its all marketing" this is a stupid thing to say...

have you seen the pro series vavletrain?? i have.. its much nicer than the older stuff.. well worth the little extra money.. do i run this stuff? no i dont.. i run rev vavle springs and retainers..

and you are going to try and explain to me the difference in the stage 3's and the pro3's ha i had the pro3's prototypes running in my engine before you had a clue that they were even coming out.. so you have no room to tell me anything about these cams......

as for me asking about degreeing.. i understand he wasnt asking.. thats why i was.. cause its apparent that he doesnt know... so i was looking out for him so he doesnt make the mistake of not degreeing.

shawn

 

Pr0Honda had the Pro3s long before ANYONE on this board even knew about them. maybe TBONE , but thats it.

These cams are NOT anything NEAR the old Stage 3s. and if Skunk2 said to ujpgrade, then do it, afterall, its their ******* camshaft.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pr0Honda had the Pro3s long before ANYONE on this board even knew about them. maybe TBONE , but thats it.

These cams are NOT anything NEAR the old Stage 3s. and if Skunk2 said to ujpgrade, then do it, afterall, its their ******* camshaft. </TD></TR></TABLE> Easy tiger. What does getting cams before anyone have to do with upgrading valvetrain?

 

it means that he was a test subject, and that he and his engine builder know alot more about these cams that what some people on this board are saying.

If skunk2 says run and upgrade to PRO series, then , do it. Its not them trying to make a buck, its them recomending what to run with their new cam line.

What im saying is that ProHonda has alot more expierience with these cams than almost anyone on here. he shouldnt be questioned.
i was responding to this IDIOT:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VNTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im just letting you know between the profiles of the skunk2 st3s and the pro3s there isnt that much significant change that would deem the older skunk2 valve train unusable. Obviously if he is going to be running a type of cam this big hopefully he should know what hes in for and what type of particular set up these cams will work with.

Anyways, doesnt look like you know much either, i told him to check with skunk2 and gave him my opinion due to the fact that theyre all skunk2 products. He wasnt asking about degreeing, looks like you wasted time posting a reply yourself </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you give me proof to prove this THEORY. THe new PRO3s are NOTHING like the older cam series. People WHO THINK they are like the old series need not give ANY ADVICE

Ive seen the new PRO series valvetrain, and it is MUC Hnicer than their old valvetrain

 

Skunk2 is located in California. He might be the few to this them first in the east coast.

 

what's the opening and closing pressure and coil bind height on the Pro 3 vs stage 3?

what's the installed height?

what's the retainer to guide and retainer to seal clearances?

stop listening to these people and get the cam's spec requirements and you won't be guessing....jezuz...

here...please read this to edumacate yourself

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from Larry Carley's articles

When installing performance valve springs, pay close attention to the installed height. This assures the springs have the required pressure to keep the valves shut. Height is checked by measuring the distance between the spring seat in the head and the retainer on the valve stem. Most performance valve springs are closely matched, but if adjustments are needed it can be done by shimming the valves to equalize pressures. Shims are made of hardened steel, come in various thicknesses and are usually serrated on one side to prevent rotation (the serrated side faces the head). The thicker the shim, the more it increases spring pressure. Don't overshim, though, because doing so may lead to coil bind with a high lift cam or rocker arms.

The spacing between the spring coils must also be checked with the valves at full lift to make sure the springs do not bind. High lift cams and/or rocker arms push the valves further open, so it's important to make sure there's still some room between the coils at maximum lift. This can be done by inserting a feeler gauge between the coils. A minimum clearance of .060? is usually recommended.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you can get the objective specs from skunk2, it saves you from guessing & grief.

don't just take their word for it either...get the actual numbers...no-one can argue against those.

 

What would everybody do without you? Have you ever actually worked on a car?I know you must read alot.And you know the formulas and theories.But have you actually put them to work.
I have noticed on your site(Team Integra) you put down people more than you help them.Kinda what your doing here.With your "edumacate yourself"remarks.Do you think by teasing people its going to MAKE them learn?
And don't try this "What have you done or who are you " ****.Trust me I have built or worked on some of the fastest cars in the world.From Top Fuel to the Dry lakes.My point is, Don't be such a smart *** to these kids.Its not going to get you the respect that your looking for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Wizard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would everybody do without you? Have you ever actually worked on a car?I know you must read alot.And you know the formulas and theories.But have you actually put them to work.
I have noticed on your site(Team Integra) you put down people more than you help them.Kinda what your doing here.With your "edumacate yourself"remarks.Do you think by teasing people its going to MAKE them learn?
And don't try this "What have you done or who are you " ****.Trust me I have built or worked on some of the fastest cars in the world.From Top Fuel to the Dry lakes.My point is, Don't be such a smart *** to these kids.Its not going to get you the respect that your looking for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i respect him cause he's the only one that gave the correct answer. i dont give a **** if the guy can fix a lawn mower, he gave the right answer to the question, who cares if he gives a little attitude with it. many other "popular" people in this forum give alot of attitude, i dont see you jumping down their ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Wizard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Trust me I have built or worked on some of the fastest cars in the world.From Top Fuel to the Dry lakes.My point is, Don't be such a smart *** to these kids.Its not going to get you the respect that your looking for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the opening and closing pressures needed for a Skunk 2 Pro3 valvespring ?

What's the install height needed for the Skunk2 Pro3 cam?

What is the coil bind height of the Skunk2 Pro3 valvespring?

Are these identical to the Skunk2 Stage 3 valvespring ?

Anyone who wants to stay on topic and actually answer the question would have probably emailed or phoned Skunk2 to help the person asking the question instead of posturing.

Where were you Mr. Top Fuel to reply to this answer before I came on ? Why are you in this thread now? To answer the question? Of course not. This is the tangent you want to play? PM then. Don't waste people's time here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Wizard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u SHOULD be fine, but i would email to make sure</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice guess.

We don't know you from Adam.

If you were on an internet board and a total stranger tells you that you
"SHOULD be fine", are you going to take his word for it?

And if you're trying to help someone to understand what they are doing,
should you not point out the steps or elements to get there?

Just getting the bottomline (i.e. you can use Pro3 or not) does not induce
understanding or wisdom.

It perpetuates ignorance.

How have you helped him?

You told him to go email them. Sure I understand. I'm busy too.

But if this is supposed to be a technical help board, telling someone
to do something that they can do before they came on the board, is not
help.

Now, if YOU emailed Skunk2 and asked them or used YOUR connections
in Top Fuel to get the answer and show why, then that is helping.

But don't play this holier than thou **** because your answer is just as pathetic as mine, if we are critiqueing style points here which if I were a moderator, would be considered train wreck hijacking a thread. If you want to make this thread about me, don't bother. Just PM me.

 

PMed

 

Now back to the issue of shims as you may have read on the Larry Carley quote I gave above.

One of the "shop tricks" racers do (I'm told) to reduce the cam-rocker wear and reduce valve mushrooming/seat pounding (not due to poor valvespring control) on these high lift, steep flank, long duration cams is to alter the installed height and then adjust back to stock clearances with shims.

If you use a thicker retainer and larger installed height, it changes the geometry of the travel of the cam as it sweeps across the rocker with less stress.

The downside to this is that you then have to worry about other clearances like rocker to retainer clearance moreso and that's where those specs come in to be checked.

With certain valve lifts, once you exceed a lift point (especially on these higher lift all motor cams) you probably want to also get the retainer to oil seal clearance as there can be interference there.

So when you call Skunk2, I would suggest that you get the whole kit and kabootle on the objective comparison clearances to get the complete answer that you want, if you are already doing the legwork that no-one else here has for info.


I would be interested in knowing if their valvesprings are any lighter than the usual (or even stock weight) for valvetrain weight savings which has to help on the cam-rocker wear department.

The thing that people on the honda hype boards don't tell you is: how long do these cams last and how long do your rocker arms last with these more aggressive cam specs. That somehow gets shoved under the rug in the discussion for some unknown reason (or maybe not so unknown, if you are trying to sell people the cams and get them to buy into the hype wihout considering the down sides as well...if ya know what I mean )

 

Here is my point:

Guy bought some PRO3 camshafts from skunk2. He has older SKunk2 vlavetrain. he wants to know if he should upgrade to the newer valvetrain or not.

HT Commando says:
THey are probably trying to just sell you some new parts, im sure it doesnt require them

Me and Pr0Honda (WHO BOTH HAVE PRO3 CAMSHAFTS):
Use what Skunk2 Recommends.

then a bunch of guys post things that really have no meaning. bottom line is, if this guy is asking "what valvetrain am i using with my PRo3s" chances are hes already WAY in over his head, and everything MR. DELANEY typed goes right out the window.

/thread