I need help deciding on which cams will fit my setup better (given that i will upgrade to the proper valvetrain for either cams). I'm not too worried about peak hp. Just wanna figure out which will provide more overall usable power (what will get me down the track faster).

I know the BC3+ are only good up to about 8000-8200 also heard 8600 but nothing higher. Also, I've heard that the power is good throughout the powerband.


<U>Car</U>

1990 Integra RS

<U>Setup</U> (motor not installed yet)

1995 B18C1 (102k)
Blox Intake Manifold
Hondata IM Gasket
Converted to OBD1
4-1 header 2.5 collector to 2.5 exhaust system (haven't purchased)
Kenji Chipped P28 (not yet purchased)
Crome Managed/Tuned (when setup is installed)


If there's anything else anyone sees that I'm missing let me know.

 

Well my opinion is wait to buy cams after you get valvesprings and retainers. Becuase you're going to spend 500+ on stage 1 cams and later down the line when you get valvetrain and a little more compression you will need a bigger cam. Then you will end up loosing money becuase you wont get what you paid for the stage 1s....Just my thought.

 

its not really a problem with buying valvetrain. like i said before i'll buy whichever ones i'll need. i just wanna go this route for now. i mean i'm not sure how soon it'll be until i start working on the bottom end. so it could be a year of running this setup. thats worth spending the money now and spending more later.

bump for more responses and thanks sheepey for yours

 

Stock JDM ITR motor with bolt ons. Red is BC 3+ cams. Blue is S2S1.

 

hmm.. so being that the bc3+ makes more power everywhere till 8000 means it would be faster right? sorry i'm a noob at looking at dyno graphs =/

 

3+ are good
4's are better~

 

Bump because i am trying to decide on these cams too, basically the same set-up. Can you expalin why the BC 4's are better? Aren't they more aggressive than the 3s? Too aggressive for the B18C1 compression?

Looks like the BC 3s give more usable power everywhere throughout the powerband over the Skunks (except clear up top)

 

Its all up to you. I would definitley go with the buddy club 3+ because of the massive difference besides in the higher rpm. The only reason i would go with the skunk 2 is if i lived in cali because they are smog legal. Im not sure about buddyclub.

I would get the buddyclub3+

And yes, with the 4's you should increase your compression. IM NOT SAYING YOU HAVE TO, but i would be plenty happy with the buddy club 3+. Omniman was very happy with them and he is a well respected enthusiast, and i trust his opinions.

 

Hey jdmkrazie, maybe you should consider swapping in a thinner headgasket, and putting in high compression valves when you are doing your springs and retainers. This is what I am going to to achieve around 10.5:1 cr. I bought a mugen headgasket and am soon going to purchase a set of Supertech HC valves to go along with my Omni springs and retainers. Hmmm....leaning toward the BC 3+ now.....

 

i used bc head gasket and itr valvetrain with the bc3+ cams and enjoy them......get a better valvetrain if u plan to to rev it over 8000....
i used them twice...the idle is good and no mayor tuning involved...

i have a set of cams for sale, pm if interested


Modified by xyzalvarez at 12:27 AM 12/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thegrayghost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey jdmkrazie, maybe you should consider swapping in a thinner headgasket, and putting in high compression valves when you are doing your springs and retainers. This is what I am going to to achieve around 10.5:1 cr. I bought a mugen headgasket and am soon going to purchase a set of Supertech HC valves to go along with my Omni springs and retainers. Hmmm....leaning toward the BC 3+ now.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i would raise my compression but i'm trying to avoid pulling the head apart from the block right now. i'll do that later on in the future.

 

they work fine with your CR but wont perform as intended....just uprade the valvetrain if u want to over rev it...

 

I'm pretty much a newb at comparing cam specs and knowing how different levels of lift and duration with affect the way a motor performs, but with that said....

Comparing the specs of the S2S1 and the BC 3+, the levels of lift on both the intake and exhaust are close in comparison. But looking at the duration, the BC 3+ have a longer duration on both the intake and exhaust.

Is it from the BC 3+ longer duration that give it more gains across the board compared to the S2S1?? Someone straighten me out....

 

Bump for camshaft gurus...

 

the skunk s 1 is compared with the CTR cams, but a litle more gains...the bc3+ have like 11.4 in 11.8 ex lift and the duration (296 and 290) increase the air into the chamber...maybe thats why is valvetrain friendly....if u keep ur stock rev lmit...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xyzalvarez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the skunk s 1 is compared with the CTR cams, but a litle more gains...the bc3+ have like 11.4 in 11.8 ex lift and the duration (296 and 290) increase the air into the chamber...maybe thats why is valvetrain friendly....if u keep ur stock rev limit...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for all the responses everyone. i just sent my payment for xyzalvarez's bc3+

EDIT: this also brings me to another question. do you guys think a megan 4-1 2.5 collector and full 2.5 exhaust system will be too much for this setup? (no cat.. straight pipe)

 

seriously for your setup, the spec 3+'s are perfect

 

Why can't BC3+ pull past 8500 rpms?

Guru's please chime in and help.

 

Something to do with inverse radius & valve acelleration perhaps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why can't BC3+ pull past 8500 rpms?

Guru's please chime in and help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think there is no scientific reason for it simply most people who use these cams have mild street compression, under 11:1. Actually I'd say they're the cams of choice for people with stock blocks.
I bet if we put these cams in a car with 11.5:1+ compression and a very good flowing head their would be no problem getting these cams to pull past 8500. But again, pulling past 8500 doesnt mean anything. I personally rather make 200whp at 8200rpm than 200whp at 9000rpm

 

I've seen dyno's where BC3's fell off and other cams just kept on going.

Not hating just educating.

 

do the BC3's perhaps have a bigger primary lobe? with such an extreme gain of mid range torque it would seem like they have bigger primaries... that smooth curve looks like the skunk PRO cams...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dont think there is no scientific reason for it simply most people who use these cams have mild street compression, under 11:1. Actually I'd say they're the cams of choice for people with stock blocks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I just ordered a set of these cams, I will be running on stock B16 valvetrain (for now) with the stock rev limit.
You can really get messed up reading on cams, so many different opinions. Anyway.
The car is mostly stock, has only an intake at this point, made 135whp as is, I will dyno these cams with no mods, no tuning and see how they do, then add stuff as I go (exhaust/header/VAFC) and see what happens. The stock rev limit will be staying.
I went with the BC3 for the midrange.

 

good to know.. i'll dyno my car once the motor is in. so there wont really be a base dyno before the mods.