My goal is 200whp daily driven and I was wondering if the T3 .60/.48 is worth it over a T3 .42/.48? The .60/.48 is $200 more than what I'd be able to buy a .42/.48 for. A buddy of mine made good whp and wtq @ 8psi with a .42/.48, but it stopped making power after 6k or so on a stock z6. Is the 60 trim worth it?




Modified by EK k kay at 3:38 PM 12/22/2005

 

for what motor?

west coast turbo has remanufactured t3's for $299 and t3/t4's for $399 -- not too bad of a deal if u ask me.

 

Very much so...especially for that 200whp goal...

 

Ahh I knew I forgot something. It's a y7/y8 mini me. Pretty much consider it a y8.

 

ya i think it would defintley be worth it cause it would make more power

 

I don't really want to spend too much for this project unless the part is really necessary.. That $200 might be better spent on a clutch. Still undecided.

 

I had a .48/.60 on my d16z6 and it pulled hard all the way to the redline and felt like it wanted to keep on pulling. There was no drop in torque at the 10-12psi I was running.

I say go with the 48/60, because of the larger compressor it will take less boost to get to your goals.

Less boost on a larger compressor > more boost from a smaller compressor

It creates less heat at the same power level.

 

^ do you have any dynos?

I should also mention that dyno above was at 8psi..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ do you have any dynos?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I really wish I did though.

I tuned it on the street and never got around to taking it to the dyno for numbers.

 

Go with the .60/.48...

That's what I have and it's perfect for stock d-series motors. My buddy had a .42/.48 and switched to the .60/.48 and he defintely noticed the difference on the top end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with the .60/.48...

That's what I have and it's perfect for stock d-series motors. </TD></TR></TABLE>




thats what i ran on my z6. it was very well matched to the motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go with the .60/.48... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd go .60/.63. The OEM aka "stage 1" turbine wheel is still pretty tiny, it's not like the usual "stage 3" turbine wheel in the T3/T04E hybrids that's half again as big.

You could get Mister Westcoast-Turbo to cough up a .60/.63 with "stage 2" turbine and have something about as well matched, spool wise, to a D16 as a .57/.63 T04E hybrid with "stage 3" turbine is on a GSR or LS/VTEC. And not so restrictive that it kills off your power if you want to use the .60 trim's 300 whp worth of airflow.

 

id have to agree go ahead with the .60 You guys will laugh at me but i run a .42/.48 on my b16 lol trust me she runs outta breath real quick on the DOHC Vtec head.....but spools redic and great low end power.

 

I ran the .50 trim .42/.48 on my LS and liked it a lot. When I switched to the .60/.63, while there were power gains up top, there were flat just power gains all over the place. Only increased spool 500 rpms, and I added the 24X11X4" ghetto FMIC which has a lot more internal volume than the "600 hp" Precision (to pull a name out of my ***) ICs. Most of that spool was probably in the IC...

 

I had a 48/60 on my y8, and it was a great turbo. The 42/48 is ok, but don't attempt to get anykind of big top end out of it. It'll be boring after a week. lol. Save the hassle and skip the 48/60 all together. 63/60 is a ball of joy.

 

The 50 trim isn't exactly the reason for top-end loss, certainly when you're only around 200whp. On a D16 it's partly the head's flow restriction and the cam. It also has to do with the .48AR of the turbine housing. Regardless, I'd go with the 60 trim with .60/.48. A buddy has JDM b16 with a 60trim T3 .60/.63 and was tuned to 250whp by the previous owner at 9psi.

 

One of fjt's buddies hit 270 whp on a D16 and .42/.48 "fitty trim" T3. Somewhere around 18 psi or so. You can operate turbos off the main efficiency island and get more than advertised airflow, but charge temps climb. bigwig and I can argue about the turbo's life expectancy, but it's a comparative non-issue.

 

I appreciate all of your guys input. While my goal is only 200whp with either turbo, hopefully there is a $200 difference that I can feel when I drive my buddies car and mine when I get it boosted.

 

$200?? I only get my 48/60's from TurboCoupes at junkyards.

 

Well those turbos go for around $300 from my experience. The 42/48 goes for around $100 so $200 difference.

 

Another thing you can do is get a 42/48 and put a .60 compressor housing on it. Essentially giving you a 48/60. The 42/48's tend to go for less money, and the .60 compressor housings can be found on ebay for around $25. That's what I did on my 91 LS and it worked great.

 

You certainly can try that as well, but it can't be the comp housing off of a 60trim. You'd have over 1/16" extra space around the inducer part of the wheel. Obviously StealthMode got the right one, but both types float around on ebay.

FYI
T3 50trim: inducer = 1.674", exducer = 2.367"
T3 60trim: inducer = 1.830", exducer = 2.367"

 

Is that easy to do? What kind of gain would it be by doing that?

 

Unbolt the retaining clips (It's 6 or 8 bolts) and bolt on the new housing. It's that easy. The gain that you would get is a larger compressor housing.

I had a 48/60 that was trash, and a 42/48 that was mint. There's no way I'm putting a 42/48 on my LS, so I took the compressor housing off both of them, and after 25 minutes of staring and measuring, there appears to be no difference in the wheels whatsoever. I put the 60 comp. housing on the 42/48, and did burnouts. It was a lovely situation.

 

Oh, and the (let me think) comp. housing didn't want to mount flush with the 42/48 center section. There's a slight lip difference between the two housings, so when you mount them up the first time, you tighten all the bolts down, and if you try real hard, you can wiggle the housing about 1mm back and forth. I boosted the car like this and she was happy, but I did eventually take the housing off and grind down the lip on the center section just a tad to make the housing tighten all the way.

Ok, that's all I know.